P10F OR upgrades for competition

[CHA-LEE]

Here is the mag inserted at the normal depth....

 

[CHA-LEE]

Here is the mag over inserted to the furthest upward position it can go, which is the upper part of the base pad bottoming out on the bottom of the grip magwell. I realize that this picture is blurry where the ejector and magazine are close to one another but they are still not touching.......

 

[Benevolence]

Great, thank you! I just went through all my mags (OEM base plate) and pushed in as much as I could and still didn't get them to touch. I definitely see how a rear relief cut could make it a non-issue with mag extensions that may not go as high on the tube. I almost think at this point I'd be better off using $240 towards practice ammo than +3/4 on my mags.

 

Hoping to get that tungsten backstap done tomorrow

Edited May 21, 2020 by Benevolence

[Superpipe9]

5 hours ago, Benevolence said:

Great, thank you! I just went through all my mags (OEM base plate) and pushed in as much as I could and still didn't get them to touch. I definitely see how a rear relief cut could make it a non-issue with mag extensions that may not go as high on the tube. I almost think at this point I'd be better off using $240 towards practice ammo than +3/4 on my mags.

 

Hoping to get that tungsten backstap done tomorrow

Wait what! Are you seriously getting a tungsten backstrap? That would be a awesome addition. 

[MikeNS]

Planning to pickup some Henning 140mm base pads soon. I like the P10, but I’m still undecided if I like it more than my M&P. I feel like they both have their strong and weak points. 

[Benevolence]

2 hours ago, MikeNS said:

Planning to pickup some Henning 140mm base pads soon. I like the P10, but I’m still undecided if I like it more than my M&P. I feel like they both have their strong and weak points. 

I feel like the way the M&p fire control group works allows it to have a better trigger than a P-10F or a glock. That said, the HBI trigger and some springs have really gotten the trigger to where I’m happy with it; very close to the M&p with apex. That said, I like the grip and slide better on the p10. 

[MikeNS]

11 hours ago, Benevolence said:

I feel like the way the M&p fire control group works allows it to have a better trigger than a P-10F or a glock. That said, the HBI trigger and some springs have really gotten the trigger to where I’m happy with it; very close to the M&p with apex. That said, I like the grip and slide better on the p10. 

Interestingly enough, I’m just the opposite. I prefer the my HBI equipped P10 trigger over my Apexed M&P trigger. But, I prefer the grip and slide of the M&P more. All of this is just proof that each person is different and likes what they like. 
 

Neither gun is going to be holding me back I’m sure! 

[Benevolence]

Got the tungsten backstrap started today. 8.6oz and going to put some cross pins on top and bottom then build it up to the grip profile with some jb weld then 36 grit finish. Got to mill the bottom flush as well. 

[OptimiStick]

So I picked one of these up, and an HBI Trigger and CGW guiderod. I was only able to get a 15lb spring from CGW, but had glock 13lb recoil springs  already. And after reading this thread, thought hey great, 13lb Glock recoil spring will work fine. The Glock spring didn't look right, it was a noticabley bigger OD than the stock captured spring and the 15lb CGW spring. But like a moron, I charged forward. If it doesn't work  I'll just us the 15lb for now. Coil bind within a 1/4" of slide movement, and I could *not* get the damn slide off. After an hour of trying over and over, upside down, on its side, giving it love taps, it finally popped free. I started looking at the Glock springs and others I had - this spring had come with a Tungsten guiderod and is a different size than the standard Glock flatwire springs. Different part # from Glockstore and everything. When I tried the normal 13lb flatwire on the uncaptured CGW rod it works fine.

 

Moral of the story, don't be a moron. 

[SGT_Schultz]

On 5/21/2020 at 4:34 PM, Benevolence said:

Quick question: I’m looking to put some 140mm magazine basepads on but I’m wanting to make sure the ones I get will prevent over-insertion and breaking the ejector. It looks like the factory ones do, and probably CZC’s. Do Hennings do this as well?

 

The Henning base pads don't let the magazine hit the ejector in either my P-10F or my P-09.

[AllOfTheData]

I used this https://www.ndzperformance.com/Jentra-JTGR-1-Guide-Rod-Glock-Gen-1-3-17L-24-34-35-p/jen-jtgr-1.htm and had to shorten it 0.550

It uses Wolff springs which they have every weight from 10lbs and up. 

54 minutes ago, OptimiStick said:

So I picked one of these up, and an HBI Trigger and CGW guiderod. I was only able to get a 15lb spring from CGW, but had glock 13lb recoil springs  already. And after reading this thread, thought hey great, 13lb Glock recoil spring will work fine. The Glock spring didn't look right, it was a noticabley bigger OD than the stock captured spring and the 15lb CGW spring. But like a moron, I charged forward. If it doesn't work  I'll just us the 15lb for now. Coil bind within a 1/4" of slide movement, and I could *not* get the damn slide off. After an hour of trying over and over, upside down, on its side, giving it love taps, it finally popped free. I started looking at the Glock springs and others I had - this spring had come with a Tungsten guiderod and is a different size than the standard Glock flatwire springs. Different part # from Glockstore and everything. When I tried the normal 13lb flatwire on the uncaptured CGW rod it works fine.

 

Moral of the story, don't be a moron. 

 

[OptimiStick]

the CGW seems fine - it was the springs I was using. they were not standard sized glock springs. They were larger ID and OD for a larger than usual diameter glock tungsten guiderod. Once I went to normal size glock flatwire springs, it was fine.I was still a little worried because the Glock springs are much longer than the factory captured (yeah, I know, some of that is just due to the compression on the captured setup). I was concerned I'd have coil bind again due to the excess length of the spring - but it works fine.

[fordfreak]

On 5/29/2020 at 4:01 PM, Benevolence said:

Got the tungsten backstrap started today. 8.6oz and going to put some cross pins on top and bottom then build it up to the grip profile with some jb weld then 36 grit finish. Got to mill the bottom flush as well. 

 

Looking forward to seeing how this turns out!!

[OptimiStick]

First shots of the P10-f today, and shot well - but I had a few light strikes.  3 light-strikes out of 12 mags.  I was using the lightest striker spring in the HBI trigger kit.  I guess I’ll need to go up to the middle spring.  It was with Winchester WSPs. But I like the gun a lot. I can really get a grip on it.  I should be able to really crank on it when I silicone carbide the grip. 

[CHA-LEE]

11 hours ago, OptimiStick said:

First shots of the P10-f today, and shot well - but I had a few light strikes.  3 light-strikes out of 12 mags.  I was using the lightest striker spring in the HBI trigger kit.  I guess I’ll need to go up to the middle spring.  It was with Winchester WSPs. But I like the gun a lot. I can really get a grip on it.  I should be able to really crank on it when I silicone carbide the grip. 

 

Just like any other pistol that uses light striker/hammer springs to make the trigger pull weight lighter, you need to use soft primers to get reliable ignition. Federal primers are the softest and the best choice when using lighter striker/hammer springs. I am not sure why that same lesson needs to be relearned for the 972347892873489237 time when people start screwing around with their springs.

[OptimiStick]

Uh thanks for your opinion, but no. I prefer to not be bound by just federal primers and their availability, which is why I test them and move up until I am reliable with at least Winchesters. Though I will also test them with CCI, I won't flunk that spring if it doesn't set off CCI. I don't use them as much in my striker guns anyway.. I was simply reporting back here so I could maybe save others the trouble.

 

 

Edited June 1, 2020 by OptimiStick

[CHA-LEE]

2 minutes ago, OptimiStick said:

Uh thanks for your opinion, but no. I prefer to not be bound by just federal primers and their availability, which is why I test them and move up until I am reliable with at least Winchesters. Thought I will also test them with CCI, I won't flunk that spring if it doesn't set off CCI. I don't use them as much in my striker guns anyway.. I was simply reporting back here so I could maybe save others the trouble.

 

 

 

I like your optimism in thinking that someone else is going to read your post about striker spring testing with a specific spring & primer, when you didn't even do that yourself and had to find out the hard way. People are too lazy to research this stuff proactively to make an informed decision up front. That reality will never change. Such is human nature.

[OptimiStick]

2 hours ago, CHA-LEE said:

 

I like your optimism

 

Yes, I  can see you are a big fan of optimism. Happy to help!

[mrvip27]

On 5/29/2020 at 4:01 PM, Benevolence said:

Got the tungsten backstrap started today. 8.6oz and going to put some cross pins on top and bottom then build it up to the grip profile with some jb weld then 36 grit finish. Got to mill the bottom flush as well. 

 

Excited to see how this ends up!!

[rocket99]

I bought the new Hogue slip on grip designed for the P-10F. It looks goofy but it fills my XL hands very well





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[MaddHatter]

On 6/10/2020 at 9:46 PM, rocket99 said:

I bought the new Hogue slip on grip designed for the P-10F. It looks goofy but it fills my XL hands very well





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Which backstrap are you using?

[mrvip27]

Anyone try the new Overwatch Precision trigger and striker?

[rocket99]

 
Which backstrap are you using?

I am using the large backstrap


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[MaddHatter]

2 hours ago, rocket99 said:

I am using the large backstrap


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thanks. Just ordered one to try it out. 

[Benevolence]

Got the bottom milled out and dremeled the top round to fit with the frame but still has a bit of a shelf for thumb webbing. Taped the frame off and JB welded first layer to blend out the frame fitting. Ugly as sin but feels better. Drilled out 2x 3/32” holes for the cross tension pins however I’m not thrilled with how little plastic is left on the frame to hold it on. Also having done a JB weld & 36 grit on my M&p, and how beat up my hands got, I am going to try some hockey tape, and it will help hold the tungsten backstrap on as well. At this point I’ll have created two abominations, never mind my 2011’s. 

 

Next up is lightening the slide, sending it out to Primary Machine for SRO cut, and getting the tungsten guide rod with 1911 springs on. Hoping this total adds on 12oz or so to the frame and take a few off the slide.

 

I shot the gun first time this weekend, without the tungsten modifications though. Did 750 rounds of that Winchester steel case crap and no hiccups. Very happy with the lowered recoil and striker springs. Maybe a bit too low on the recoil though; it seemed to come back high on target. 

 

If anyone is wanting to do a tungsten backstrap, ebay has some bucking bars for $30 that you can cut between the countersunk holes and have a perfect length. I did an Archimedes water test and it’s close to 19g/cc, so I think they’re the 90% tungsten, ~5 & 5% copper/nickel. 

 

Edited June 17, 2020 by Benevolence