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Superpipe9

P10F OR upgrades for competition

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7 hours ago, Jabberwalkie09 said:

So, I had a pretty significant issue with some 147 American Eagle fmj stuff which is a flat nose round like the  syntech round is. When I ordered my original base pads and followers, i believe I got sent the 75 mag follower kit and not the p series mag kit. I swapped back to the stock guts in the interim and haven’t had an issue, but I should have the correct kit sometime next week.

 

I settled on the gun just not liking the flat nose rounds, and I’ve burned off all that I had left fortunately though somewhat frustrating at the time. So now I’m shooting 124 blazer through it at the moment. No issues so far.

This is concerning.  I’ll be getting my p10f tomorrow and I mainly load 147 flat nose.

ill have to see how long or short I need to load them.  Really don’t want to mess with my dies and load different loads of 9mm every time.

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Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, CHA-LEE said:

I am using the Medium back strap and can get a decent support hand purchase on the side of the gun. The primary reason I used the Medium back strap is that it made the gun point very similar to my 2011. The large back strap made the muzzle point high with my “normal” grip position.

So what about the tungsten guide rod? Do you think it makes a worthwhile difference? Thanks again Charlie 

Edited by Superpipe9

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56 minutes ago, Czgunsalot said:

This is concerning.  I’ll be getting my p10f tomorrow and I mainly load 147 flat nose.

ill have to see how long or short I need to load them.  Really don’t want to mess with my dies and load different loads of 9mm every time.

Let me try out the new, correct followers I’m getting this week then I’ll find some 147 FN’s and try it out. I’ll report back on what happens.

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11 hours ago, Superpipe9 said:

So what about the tungsten guide rod? Do you think it makes a worthwhile difference? Thanks again Charlie 

The Tungsten Guide rod adds a little more weight to the gun which I personally prefer. Is it worthwhile? Only you can know the answer to that by testing it. These parts are not expensive. Order it up and try it out yourself. 

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On 7/2/2019 at 8:52 PM, fastlane604 said:

 

A word to the wise. If you try a Glock rod, or any non OEM rod in your P-10, make certain that the head size does not exceed the head size of the OEM rod.  That is what was causing my problem.

There is an easy fix for this.  Chuck the guide rod up in a drill as if it were a drill bit, and with it spinning in the drill, take material off the head with a file until it matches the diameter exactly for the factory guide rod head.  I had to do this exact thing with a Jager glock guide rod that I was adapting for a non-glock project gun.  

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1 hour ago, obsessiveshooter said:

There is an easy fix for this.  Chuck the guide rod up in a drill as if it were a drill bit, and with it spinning in the drill, take material off the head with a file until it matches the diameter exactly for the factory guide rod head.  I had to do this exact thing with a Jager glock guide rod that I was adapting for a non-glock project gun.  

Thanks for the tip. Cajun Gun Works has their P-10 F rods in stock now so I have installed one of the., But, I will remember for future reference.

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Just now, fastlane604 said:

Thanks for the tip. Cajun Gun Works has their P-10 F rods in stock now so I have installed one of the., But, I will remember for future reference.

I ordered one of these at the end of last week. I’m looking forward to trying it out.

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Posted (edited)

I have a CGW stnls rod and 15 lb flat wire  recoil spring on both my P-10 Cs and my P-10 F.  I am very pleased with them.

Edited by fastlane604

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I finally found a P10F OR on the 4th of July at our local indoor range.  Bought it immediately and finally got an optic plate so I could shoot it last night.  Put the 507c on it and a Theta trigger but no other mods.  Very pleased with this pistol in stock form.  Recoil was easy to manage and the dot stayed parked pretty well.  Shot about 300 rounds without a single malfunction.  I want to get a different guide rod and experiment with springs to see if improvement can be had.  Should I go tungsten or just stainless?  Sounds like the 13 to 15 lb springs are working well for people so I will stay in that range.  Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread as it is very helpful.

2019-07-10 07.26.05.jpg

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Posted (edited)
On 7/7/2019 at 10:55 AM, Czgunsalot said:

This is concerning.  I’ll be getting my p10f tomorrow and I mainly load 147 flat nose.

ill have to see how long or short I need to load them.  Really don’t want to mess with my dies and load different loads of 9mm every time.

I ran 147 flat nose in mine no issues also tried 124 and 160 grain round nose hasn't had an issue yet my 147 load makes 139Pf 160 grain load was about 132pf. 124 grain was American Eagle factory

Edited by BlakeB

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Do you guys think the HBI theta trigger or the Cajun trigger is worth the money?

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Posted (edited)

I finally got my P10F all finished up. I had to remove 1.5oz from the slide to eliminate the muzzle dip when the slide snaps forward. Now the muzzle returns straight to flat with zero muzzle bounce with factory 115gr ammo. Since I had to mill on the slide to remove weight I decided to coat it with Cerakote in Sniper Gray color. Not quite black, not quite gray. Time for some Pew Pews!!!

 

 

 

 

 

P10F Left.jpg

P10F Right.jpg

P10F Top.jpg

Edited by CHA-LEE

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3 minutes ago, Superpipe9 said:

Do you guys think the HBI theta trigger or the Cajun trigger is worth the money?

I have the Theta in mine and it definitely shortens the pre-travel up.  Other than that, not much difference. 

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7 minutes ago, CHA-LEE said:

I finally got my P10F all finished up. I had to remove 1.5oz from the slide to eliminate the muzzle dip when the slide snaps forward. Now the muzzle returns straight to flat with zero muzzle bounce with factory 115gr ammo. Since I had to mill on the slide to remove weight I decided to coat it with Cerakote in Sniper Gray color. Not quite black, not quite gray. Time for some Pew Pews!!!

 

 

 

 

 

P10F Left.jpg

P10F Right.jpg

P10F Top.jpg

That turned out looking really nice!!  Who did the milling for you? 

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I had local Colorado gunsmith Steve Pitt do the slide lightening. I let him do whatever he wanted with the weight reduction. I told him "I need 1.5oz removed from the slide and don't care what it looks like after its done". He worked his magic and what you see is how it ended up.

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1 hour ago, Superpipe9 said:

Do you guys think the HBI theta trigger or the Cajun trigger is worth the money?

I have both. I prefer the HBI because it is flat.  The HBI reduces the pre-travel but does not remove it.  It is not adjustable.  The CGW is slightly curved and the pre-travel can be adjusted until it is almost gone. If you prefer a flat trigger, I suggest the HBI.  If adjusting out the pre-travel is more important, I suggest the CGW. To answer the original question, if I buy another P-10 I will install an HBI trigger.

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11 hours ago, CHA-LEE said:

I had local Colorado gunsmith Steve Pitt do the slide lightening. I let him do whatever he wanted with the weight reduction. I told him "I need 1.5oz removed from the slide and don't care what it looks like after its done". He worked his magic and what you see is how it ended up.

 

Looks good!

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On 7/10/2019 at 7:34 AM, VU2AKILL said:

I finally found a P10F OR on the 4th of July at our local indoor range.  Bought it immediately and finally got an optic plate so I could shoot it last night.  Put the 507c on it and a Theta trigger but no other mods.  Very pleased with this pistol in stock form.  Recoil was easy to manage and the dot stayed parked pretty well.  Shot about 300 rounds without a single malfunction.  I want to get a different guide rod and experiment with springs to see if improvement can be had.  Should I go tungsten or just stainless?  Sounds like the 13 to 15 lb springs are working well for people so I will stay in that range.  Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread as it is very helpful.

2019-07-10 07.26.05.jpg

Finally got all my parts installed and got back to the range last night for a few hundred rounds.  I added the CGW guide rod with the 15lb flat wire spring.  This made the recoil much nicer than stock with my 130PF 124gr loads.  Very happy with the flat shooting nature of the gun now although it wasn't too bad before.  The Theta trigger is still nice and the internal parts must be wearing in a bit because the trigger has zero gritty feel now(1500 rounds).  I added Springer Precision base pads and they fit great but I ended up going with the stock spring and follower.  I order the Grams stuff with my base pads but Spirnger sent the non-P series kit so the follower didn't fit well enough to function and it caused nose down jams on the ramp.  Went back to the stock stuff and it runs flawlessly.  Can get 22 reloadable in them with the stock spring and follower.  I also filled the grip void with 1.8 ounces of #8 shot shell pellets.  This seemed to balance the gun nicely in my hand and took any front bias feeling away.  Overall, I am pleased with this build and believe that it will perform well in the CO division for me.  Now I just need to hold up on my end.

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21 minutes ago, VU2AKILL said:

Finally got all my parts installed and got back to the range last night for a few hundred rounds.  I added the CGW guide rod with the 15lb flat wire spring.  This made the recoil much nicer than stock with my 130PF 124gr loads.  Very happy with the flat shooting nature of the gun now although it wasn't too bad before.  The Theta trigger is still nice and the internal parts must be wearing in a bit because the trigger has zero gritty feel now(1500 rounds).  I added Springer Precision base pads and they fit great but I ended up going with the stock spring and follower.  I order the Grams stuff with my base pads but Spirnger sent the non-P series kit so the follower didn't fit well enough to function and it caused nose down jams on the ramp.  Went back to the stock stuff and it runs flawlessly.  Can get 22 reloadable in them with the stock spring and follower.  I also filled the grip void with 1.8 ounces of #8 shot shell pellets.  This seemed to balance the gun nicely in my hand and took any front bias feeling away.  Overall, I am pleased with this build and believe that it will perform well in the CO division for me.  Now I just need to hold up on my end.

How did you keep the shot shell in place?

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6 minutes ago, Superpipe9 said:

How did you keep the shot shell in place?

Ha ha.  Was hoping nobody would ask.  I lined the grip insert with 2" wide packing tape, sticky side down.  Then i put some E6000 clear flexible sealant in and let it setup for a few minutes.  Dumped the shot in and tamped it into the sealant making sure that it did not stick up too high to reinstall the insert then put another thin layer of sealant on top.  After about two hours, the E6000 was setup enough that i could remove the entire thing from the insert without it "growing" bigger.  I trimmed off the excess tape and then wrapped the entire thing in another layer of packing tape.  Smashed it back in the insert and installed the insert on the gun.  It took a bit of stuffing to get it in there but not bad.  The E6000 is now completely setup with the shot embedded and the tape keeps any shot from coming loose and falling out.  Easy, functional and also not permanent.  Can remove and do away with it if needed.

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My wife, after improving the magwell on her X5 Legion, did mine today on the P10F.

6866B83F-95BA-4211-A1C5-FAFA6BFB9E06.jpeg

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Posted (edited)
On 7/7/2019 at 11:55 AM, Czgunsalot said:

This is concerning.  I’ll be getting my p10f tomorrow and I mainly load 147 flat nose.

ill have to see how long or short I need to load them.  Really don’t want to mess with my dies and load different loads of 9mm every time.

Played with this a bit last night some more and the issue for me seems to happen when there are over 20 rounds in the mag. I’m using CZC base pads and grams kit for P series mags, so 23 rounds in the mag is possible, with a CGW steel guide rod and 15# recoil spring. I shot some factory 147 FN American Eagle through it, some 124 blazer, and then some of my friend’s reloads that are round nose 147 but the OAL is a tad shorter. The shorter OAL seemed to help vs the factory.

 

I was planning on shooting this at a local match this weekend with the gun, so I’ll see how it does after Sunday. Also planning to shoot it the rest of the year.

Edited by Jabberwalkie09

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Jabberwalkie09 said:

I’m using CZC base pads and grams kit for P series mags, so 23 rounds in the mag is possible

 

CHA-LEE is getting 24 reloadable with a grams spring and the TTI ultra-thin follower. ;) 

 

 

If you read the followup posts, that same TTI SV follower is getting me an easily reloadable 23 in a Walther mag. (When I combine it with a Grams spring for the P320 and a TTI +5 extension.)

Edited by MemphisMechanic

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47 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

CHA-LEE is getting 24 reloadable with a grams spring and the TTI ultra-thin follower. ;) 

 

 

If you read the followup posts, that same TTI SV follower is getting me an easily reloadable 23 in a Walther mag. (When I combine it with a Grams spring for the P320 and a TTI +5 extension.)

I’ve read his post and saw the pictures. I had already bought the grams kit awhile back, but I may give that a try at some point.

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 New update. I installed a 13lb Glock recoil spring and can hands down say it’s the way to go for me anyway. I’m still trying to decide between the Cajun aluminum trigger which has the adjustable screws, Cajun g10 trigger which doesn’t have any adjustable screws and the HBI theta trigger. Also really curious if any of you guys have tried the new Cajun striker.  

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