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WFargo

Bead blasting STI slide

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Hi guys, 

 

I recently purchased a new to me pistol for Standard division (limited)  in .40

It is an SVI frame with what seems to be an STI Edge slide. 

The slide is quite worn. 

A buddy of mine has a bead blaster set up, so I could easily disassemble slide and frame and beadblast the black finish off, (what's left of it)

My question is.... what will it do to it's corrosion resistance if I blast off the black coating? 

Thanks in advance for your feedback, guys. 

 

 

SVI 1.jpeg

fa7b8f63-9882-45a4-b00e-335c10c9e2d4.JPG

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It won’t have any corrosion resistance once you take the finish off. Keep it oiled. Or else reblast it every month or two. 

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Thanks Mach1soldier...   it was kind of asking the obvious... 😊 as there is hardly any coating left on the slide as seen in the bottom picture next to the thumb rest... and yes.... it seems to be rusting in that spot...  

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If you don't want to send it off or have a local gunsmith work on it, you can get some cold blueing or even some of the spray finishes to help a little. Not ideal but better than nothing. Like it was said above, you will have to keep it well oiled constantly.

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Both of my open guns are in the white and bead blasted.  I have had no issues with corrosion/rust.  I guess it can also depend on where you live. 

Edited by echotango

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You could send it off to be nitrided for $50.  It will look awesome and you won't have to worry about rust or blasting it yourself.

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Thanks guys, 

 

Unfortunately I live in the Netherlands.....  only a handful of (sport)shooters here and therefore even less than a handful of companies that have the proper licensing to 'handle' firearms... (give them a new coating)   Companies specialized in coatings simply aren't interested in getting the proper licenses because there is no money to be made and it's just a hastle.... 

I actually already have an appointment to get an IonBond coating on the frame and slide... but I have to wait till June, and here's the kicker....  it costs € 375,-  That's US $ 425,- 

So now you probably understand why I wanna give beedblasting a go. 

 

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WD40 it directly after bead blasting... put in plastic bag until blue or coating for no surface corrosion.

 

Tim

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1 hour ago, WFargo said:

Thanks guys, 

 

Unfortunately I live in the Netherlands.....  only a handful of (sport)shooters here and therefore even less than a handful of companies that have the proper licensing to 'handle' firearms... (give them a new coating)   Companies specialized in coatings simply aren't interested in getting the proper licenses because there is no money to be made and it's just a hastle.... 

I actually already have an appointment to get an IonBond coating on the frame and slide... but I have to wait till June, and here's the kicker....  it costs € 375,-  That's US $ 425,- 

So now you probably understand why I wanna give beedblasting a go. 

 

😥

at least u can buy DAA products close to home.😉

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hahahaha! @ Yigal, yes, that's true!!! 

It's actually a bit funny to see at the matches here....  We all wear Salomon speed cross shoes and we all have DAA gear... hahahaha!  ( not éveryone, of course... but still...) 

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Maybe research Dura-coat?  It is surprising easy to apply ( 4-8 light coats) and looks good. Not like cera-coat, you can buy and paint yourself.  Sand-blast, clean, and paint, if its your gun it does not have to be perfect, but It will be better than no coating at all.

 

Kris

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Posted (edited)

Not sure of what is readily available where you live... and while i've not done this myself, i've read a good number of threads describing favorable results after degreasing and bead blasting using high temperature ceramic automotive engine paint....and still others describing using barbeque grill paint, though i'd probably prefer the former .

 

As a caveat, slide rails or areas of minimal tolerance or precise fitting like the firing pin/extractor tunnel etc. must be taped off prior to painting and heating or you'll have to reestablish fit in these regions later which might prove challenging.

 

Use very thin coats.

 

I've used home bluing salts with pretty nice results, perhaps not as beautiful as old time deep bluing but not too bad at all and has held up on my 1911 for quite a few years now. A close friend parkerized his pistol slide, said it wasn't too hard to do and it came out pretty nice as well. Some say that blueing isn't a great protective coating and perhaps they're correct but i live in a coastal region and have not had any problems with rusting. I do lightly coat the pistol after shooting and cleaning with  a small piece of sheepskin moistened in commercially available grease (RIG).

 

These are all inexpensive options and if you're not happy with the results you could always go on with your already scheduled IonBond coating

Edited by wanttolearn

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It appears, to me, that the most rusted part is the slide release ???

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Can you get Duracoat spray finish there or shipped there? I have done a couple of Ar's & shotguns with this and it works well. Not quite as good as Ceracote or some of the commercial finishes. Also have tried the ceramic based automotive high temp engine paint with decent results. Really need to get some kind of finish on it. I bought the ceramic engine paint & Duracoat off Amazon.

 

http://www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com/

 

gerritm

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Posted (edited)

Hi guys, just wanted to share this with you. 

The old lady got the IonBond make-over. 

Slide and frame now have a 'stainless' look, including beavertail, hammer, slide stop, pins. 

The barrel is high polish 'burnt bronze' IonBond. 

The slide now has the classic 'stirrup cut'.  Because of the short frame I thought that looked way better. 

And the slide is now opened up on top. 

Frame, beavertail and slide were not 'matching'  at all... with raised edges and an ejector sticking out the back of the slide...  This was 'smoothened out' and now it grips a little higher as well.  

Really happy with the result! Now this old lady can start her second youth... 😁 

Last picture is with her baby brother (STI 9mm)

SVI Ionbond 3.jpg

SVI Ionbond 2.jpg

SVI Ionbond 1.jpg

Edited by WFargo

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nice slide work  and finish. 👍

and   I thought that besides growing cows and making wooden shoes in the Netherlands, people don't deal with metal.😉

is DAA   do  custom work  in his factory  for his clients ? 

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😁 of course, Yigal.... cows, wooden shoes, wind mills.... no one does it better than us!....  

 

But we have a few gunsmiths in the Netherlands that are really good. They are practical shooters themselves and can do anything you want to the highest standards. 

This pistol was done by Langezaal Custom Works. This man can do magic with steel. He's a Long-time IPSC shooter and one of his former jobs was at Spyker where they built the super cars and he made all the pretty metal parts! He is a (very good) IPSC revolver shooter now and he has tuned almost all the revos used in competition in the Netherlands as well (yes... hard to believe, but we have quite an active group of IPSC revo shooters in the Netherlands! ) including my S&W 627.. (look at the skeletonized hammer he did, below...)

 

Double Alpha doesn't do any work on firearms, as far as I know.  

skeletonized hammer.JPG

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, WFargo said:

😁 of course, Yigal.... cows, wooden shoes, wind mills.... no one does it better than us!....  

 

But we have a few gunsmiths in the Netherlands that are really good. They are practical shooters themselves and can do anything you want to the highest standards. 

This pistol was done by Langezaal Custom Works. This man can do magic with steel. He's a Long-time IPSC shooter .

 

Double Alpha doesn't do any work on firearms, as far as I know.  

skeletonized hammer.JPG

great work.👍

best gunsmiths came from ipsc world.

unfortunately  we don't have gunsmiths on high level and the only one that was works now in US.   AKAI  owner😉

the only HQ custom guns we have it's BUL from the factory.

and best businessman  is DAA owner .😉

 

Edited by yigal

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