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STI Trojan best 9mm minor reload


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I picked up a sti trojan from a buddy of mine and I'm looking at shooting USPSA single stack soon. I'm not really familiar with reloading my own 9mm. But what I'm looking for is what would be the best bullets, brass, powder,  and primers to shoot minor power factor but still be able to knock over steel targets.

 

Thanks.

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Really any components will work. A coated 124 or 147 grain bullet will be easy to make 130-135 power factor which will knock down steel. Steel targets get calibrated to fall for 9mm minor. You shouldn't have any special needs with primers like the guys running production guns. 

 

I use mixed range brass, 147 blue bullets, and Tite group. 

 

Maybe someone else can chime in with a good overall length and bullet profile for a single stack 1911. Overall length and bullet profile can be important for reliable feeding. I assume round nose is what you'd want.

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Most people use TightGroup but I started with Unique and have been happy so far in my Trojan. The following is my G34 Production load and works fine in the STI.

147 Zero FMJ
range brass
3.9 gr Unique
CCI or Winchester
1.14”
Makes about 138-140 pf in the Trojan

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5 hours ago, OdinIII said:

Most people use TightGroup but I started with Unique and have been happy so far in my Trojan. The following is my G34 Production load and works fine in the STI.

147 Zero FMJ
range brass
3.9 gr Unique
CCI or Winchester
1.14”
Makes about 138-140 pf in the Trojan

 

This was my load until I couldn't get Unique for 4 years.  Made 139 out of 2 G34's.

 

 

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On ‎5‎/‎3‎/‎2018 at 8:22 PM, Polar_The_Pro said:

  I'm not familiar with reloading 9mm. 

 

Have you done any reloading ?

 

With 9mm, you want to use a fast powder (WW231, N320, etc).

 

Primers, brass don't matter - use anything you can de-prime.

 

Bullets are personal choice - coated lead is fine for 9mm Minor -

most beginners prefer heavier bullets (135, 147) etc.

 

Getting the OAL and "crimp" right seem to be a problem for many

beginners.

 

OAL -- run The Plunk Test to determine your longest OAL, and back

            it off a bit - make sure that long will feed thru your mags.

            AND, the OAL might change with each different type bullet

            you use (if MG 124 JHP runs to 1.130", you might need a

            shorter OAl for a PD 124 JHP).

 

"Crimp" - a taper crimp for semi-autos is really NOT a crimp, like

             the crimps used on revolvers.   All the crimp does is remove

             the bell you created to seat the bullet, and renders the case

            straight again.  Too little "crimp" and it won't feed - too much

            "crimp" will ruin your accuracy.

 

Don't take someone else's formula and load up 200 of them.   Try

a dozen, and test them (Plunk test first, and then at the range).

 

Best to have a $79 chrono - that way you can make sure the

velocity is proper and safe    :) 

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Here's a couple loads that I use in my Trojan.


124 gr Xtreme PRN

Silhouette 5.5 gr

CCI 500

1.150" OAL

133 PF

 

124 gr Xtreme PRN

AutoComp 5.0 gr

CCI 500

1.150" OAL

132 PF

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54 minutes ago, cs62 said:

Here's a couple loads that I use in my Trojan.


124 gr Xtreme PRN

Silhouette 5.5 gr

CCI 500

1.150" OAL

133 PF

 

124 gr Xtreme PRN

AutoComp 5.0 gr

CCI 500

1.150" OAL

132 PF

Just curious if you are getting unburned powder with those loads. 

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  • 1 month later...

I use a 147 SNS coated round nose with 3.1gr of Sport Pistol. Soft shooting and easily makes power.

 

One concern with range brass in 9mm is some of it won't size down correctly. I found the FC (Federal Champion) headstamp didn't give enough neck tension even after resizing/crimping as I could push the bullet in by hand. I switch to the EGW undersized die and that solved it.

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