HerdThinner Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 In USPSA limited division only based on the firearm itself a competitor has an advantage using a .40 caliber with a major power factor. A magwell gives an advantage along with other things to consider and factor in when choosing a firearm. My question is when shooting single stack what if any are things to think about when having a custom 1911 built. 40 or 45 for example. I am just trying to grasp what makes the "most efficienct" 1911. I hope I didn't open a can of worms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeBurgess Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 well depending on the match you are attending you may want a 9mm minor gun or a 40 or 45 major gun, Both would probably be best. Other than that sighs, grips, and a magwell you like, oh and one that runs 100% Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrispies Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Minor PF lets you carry 10 rounds (vs 8 in major) so if you're confident in your ability to double alpha then that gives you a whole lot of advantage in terms of both stage planning and potential split times. If your middle name is Charlie, then you may be well advised to stick with major and work on those reloads. Personally I just shoot USPSA for fun at Level 1 matches, so I'm building my 9mm SS right now. What you may find at your local matches is that they may design great stages for Production shooters (read: natural 10 round reload points) but really stink at remembering the guys with 8 round mags and revolvers. Flat footed reloads are no bueno! 9mm's can be a bit more fun in my opinion but IF the stages are designed the way the rules specify then the majjor guns can give you a better mathematical advantage on the score sheet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlm Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Been shooting SS major for as long as I can remember. Since 1987-1988 in USPSA. I prefer 45 ACP vs 40. I just think in 8's. Just remember every time you move, reload. Major will help because if you have a line hit, it will usually go to the higher points A vs C as an example. If you can hang with the big boys and shoot in a level I or II match, shoot 65-70% of their scores, you are doing well. All you need is a pistol that is reliable, you as the shooter can work on the accuracy. The ball is in your court. Shoot major and go for the points or shoot minor and go real FAST. Hope to hell you hit everything. IMVHO Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidb72 Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Single stack for me is a lot of fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 45 costs more to shoot, but the guns are easier to keep running. The added bonus is that you get to comment on the "cute holes" everyone else makes when you're taping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HerdThinner Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 Thanks for all the input, everyone makes valid and true points. What makes a "good" single stack 1911. Would you have the some person who built your 2011 build your 1911 or does it depend on the builder ? 1. Reliable 2 3 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eureka1911 Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, PatJones said: 45 costs more to shoot, but the guns are easier to keep running. The added bonus is that you get to comment on the "cute holes" everyone else makes when you're taping. Those big holes help when you are close to the perfs in a target zone. Conversely they can hurt when you just "nick" the edge of a no shoot BTW - I'm not sure it is worth getting a custom built 1911 until you are reaching the upper limits of ability. A decent 1911 with some good sights (I prefer Dawson F/O front) and a magwell will get you a long way down the road. Then you can start tweaking performance on the gun. Trigger, etc. Edited July 3, 2017 by Eureka1911 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrispies Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, HerdThinner said: Thanks for all the input, everyone makes valid and true points. What makes a "good" single stack 1911. Would you have the some person who built your 2011 build your 1911 or does it depend on the builder ? 1. Reliable 2 3 4 1. Reliable 2. Amazing trigger 3. Reliable 4. Great sights 5. Reliable 6. Etc. Basically the same list you'd make for a Limited but restricted to the more stringent rules of the division. One of the things I like about SS is that it's a super level playing field with a gun that's still pretty kick @$$. When it it comes to "personalization" you'll probably see more options on the shooters' belts than the guns. One thing I wished I'd done was tri-top my slide but I didn't know any better and bought it with the sights already cut, so now I've got a round top. Edited July 3, 2017 by jkrispies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
js1130146 Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 1 hour ago, Eureka1911 said: BTW - I'm not sure it is worth getting a custom built 1911 until you are reaching the upper limits of ability. A decent 1911 with some good sights (I prefer Dawson F/O front) and a magwell will get you a long way down the road. Then you can start tweaking performance on the gun. Trigger, etc. Realistically, it might not ever be required. Tim Herron does pretty darn well for himself (14th at SS Nationals) and if I recall correctly he still runs an essentially box stock Sig Max. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc3257 Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 I run a Sig Max in 40 and it runs like a champ! With a little trigger work, it is hard to beat for $1,300. Tim Herron ran one in 45 for years and recently started shooting a Atlas Gunworks in 45. I'm sure it is great but 3 or 4 times more expensive.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HerdThinner Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 It doesn't matter to me if the gun costs nothing or $6000. I like what I like, just as you like what you like. Some like little electric cars, others rice burners, while others good old American muscle. In the end it can still get you from A......Z. I just am just gaining knowledge in the world of single stack, what makes an all around effiecient, effective, relaible 1911. I appeciate the feed back it definitely helps to hear opinions and figuring out what works and what doesn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mach1soldier Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 3 hours ago, js1130146 said: Realistically, it might not ever be required. Tim Herron does pretty darn well for himself (14th at SS Nationals) and if I recall correctly he still runs an essentially box stock Sig Max. He ran an atlas custom this year at nationals but it wouldn't have mattered which gun he shot. All that matters is reliability and then trigger in my opinion. Accuracy can be enhanced or improved with dryfire and then minor gun tweaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcc7x7 Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 12 hours ago, HerdThinner said: Thanks for all the input, everyone makes valid and true points. What makes a "good" single stack 1911. Would you have the some person who built your 2011 build your 1911 or does it depend on the builder ? 1. Reliable 2 3 4 I'd have Dan Bedell build the gun. He builds for Max M. and several other top national shooters Cost is usually slightly less than some of the newer " I advertise alot" smiths ( who by the way seem very good) but are much newer to the uspsa gun building trade Gans guns has also been around forever and is in your home state ( but you buy all the parts and send them to him . Cool thing is a "FEW" weeks later you have your gun! IF you're new to the sport consider buying a Dan Wesson probably the nicest off the shelf 1911 or a SIG, SA and adding a few needed items (magwell, FO front sight etc) Find mags it likes and shoot it a while. Till you figure out what you really want in a custom gun, then turn it into your back up gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BARRYJ Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 I have an STI Trojan in 40 and bought a bunch of 10 round mags. I can shoot either major or minor, depending on the stages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustychev Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 I love my sig TME in 40. I shoot it major but with the right mags the same gun will shoot major or minor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glockman75 Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 Another thing to consider is what calibers are you loading now? I went with a .40 single stack so that I can use exactly the same ammo for Limited or SS.I find that loading .45 sucks due to the small primer pocket and large primer pockets. I don't like sorting them..40 SS was a no brainer for me.I have the Tripp 10 mm mags that hold up to 10 rounds with the flex follower so you can run major or minor depending on preference. I load oal 1.185 and the gun feeds flawless.I went with a Para Pro Comp .40. I removed the series 80 added a shim and have an out of the box 2.5 lbs trigger. Stock items include magwell, fiber optic front sight, adjustable rear and the gun is competition ready for $1k. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now