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New to reloading need advice.


nikdanja

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What kind of bullet weight do you suffer to start our loading 9mm? Have a sig 226 and want to start plinking loads only. Didn't know if it would be worth it to buy a heavier bullet to save powder or a lighter bullet to save cost. 

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24 minutes ago, nikdanja said:

What kind of bullet weight do you suffer to start our loading 9mm? Have a sig 226 and want to start plinking loads only. Didn't know if it would be worth it to buy a heavier bullet to save powder or a lighter bullet to save cost. 

Bullets are more expensive than powder, but that is not the approach to take. 

Develop a load that will maximize the performance of your gun, whether it be for self-protection, competition, or plinking with your buds on the weekend.

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IME, 120-125gr bullets seem to be easiest to develop accurate loads with, for whatever reason. I load 120s for plinking. I use heavier bullets for matches.

Saving powder with a heavier bullet really doesn't save money. Run the math.

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I would say to start with a bulky powder (Power Pistol is a good powder to start with, cheap, almost impossible to double charge a case), and probably some 124 gn bullets. The Power Pistol is not a great competition powder, but it is very safe to start loading with. This will get your feet wet in the reloading world, and once you get the basics down, you can start to branch out and experiment with other powders/bullets.

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In my opinion I don't see how people use 124gr bullets for practice then 147gr for matches, especially for money savings.

Take for example a simple 500rd order. its $37 for 124gr and $40 for 147gr, you do the math.

This applies with powders too. I switched away from N320 powder for a while because the price, but when you break it down its not worth saving pennies to have a completely different feel and cleanliness from a cheaper powder.

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43 minutes ago, taymag said:

In my opinion I don't see how people use 124gr bullets for practice then 147gr for matches, especially for money savings.

Take for example a simple 500rd order. its $37 for 124gr and $40 for 147gr, you do the math.

This applies with powders too. I switched away from N320 powder for a while because the price, but when you break it down its not worth saving pennies to have a completely different feel and cleanliness from a cheaper powder.

This is true. You should practice with what you are gonna shoot in a match. However, the OP said he was just looking at plinking rounds.

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Yep. I'd say 124/5 or 135gn pills are a great basic plinking weight for 9mm. 115 are great too but are a little shorter and hence a bit more fiddly to load. Just buy RN. Easy to load, reliable feeding and plenty of options from all brands of bullet. 

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12 hours ago, nikdanja said:

  loading 9mm  to start plinking loads only.  worth it to buy a heavier bullet to save powder or a vice versa?. 

You'll save money on the bullet - use ANY powder for plinking and the cheapest, lightest bullets

you can find  FOR PLINKING ONLY.   Make the powder charge The Lightest that make your

Sig reliable - I've reloaded lots of PF 105's that function perfectly in my BHP and KelTec P11 -

VERY SOFT, fun shooting.  At Very Light charges, any powder is just as good as any other -

I've used shotgun powders for my light loads - fast powders and slow powders - it didn't mean

Anything - they all get the job done.

If you get serious, then try heavier bullets and faster powders.    :) 

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11 hours ago, GrumpyOne said:

I would say to start with a bulky powder (Power Pistol is a good powder to start with, cheap, almost impossible to double charge a case), and probably some 124 gn bullets. The Power Pistol is not a great competition powder, but it is very safe to start loading with. This will get your feet wet in the reloading world, and once you get the basics down, you can start to branch out and experiment with other powders/bullets.

+1 

I started my 9mm reloading with berry's 124 gn and Unique. 

The 124/125 bullet is very easy to keep accuracy at a majority of distances. I find 147's seem only accurate with in a 10 foot window, i.e. loaded for a bullseye at 10m, at 20m you get a big drop. 115's are ok, but very wind sensitive and take more powder, harder to make 50m shots.

I have made loads with many different powders, out of need and not want, and the 124 works best with most any usable powder.

As mentioned above bulky powder for a beginer is the way to go. It is much easier to clean the over flowed double charge off your press than to put your firearm back together (or worse).

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For plinking ammo I'd use 115s. If you aren't going to compete and you aren't worried about recoil, that would be it.

Then I'd run power pistol, Win 231, WSF, WST, and even Titegroup. Any powder for which there is lots of published data.

Whichever powder was available locally and/or easily online.

And I'd shoot coated bullets to save cost over FMJs.

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the precision delta 124 JHP is hard to beat for price and performance. when purchased in lots if 2k they are very cost effective.

Its an easy bullet to load and develop accurate loads with ease.

 

WSF is my single favorite powder in 9mm.

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1 hour ago, rdinga said:

the precision delta 124 JHP is hard to beat for price and performance. when purchased in lots if 2k they are very cost effective.

Its an easy bullet to load and develop accurate loads with ease.

 

WSF is my single favorite powder in 9mm.

I don't have any real time experience with WSF but I picked up a few pounds after reading what seemed to be every thread on the web on alternatives to my current 9mm powder

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When messing with bullet weight, remember that bullet weight affects POI.  At constant power factor, lighter bullets hit lower.  My gun has sights set for POI = POA at 15 yds with 147s.    124s are an inch low at that distance.   For USPSA, this isn't huge.   I usually use 147s.   I will buy a bunch of 124s some times.    I burn them taking non-shooters to the range for introduction or for "speed mode" practice".

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