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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Beef15

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    Calls Shots

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    Piedmont, NC

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  1. 3.8 with a 125gr Blue puts me at 1050ish from a G17 at 90° it's reverse sensitive. That's 0.2 more than Titegroup or Bullseye or there about, haven't tried Sport Pistol. It's clean, meters excellent, has good SDs, seems fairly available.
  2. I started shooting it back when it was 10 round. I shoot the same G17 now, just stuck long mags in it and ground the finger grooves off when rules allowed it. I liked the ten rounds, I enjoy the higher cap more. The max weight rule doesn't bother me, neither did the old + whatever ounces. I think the add whatever you want "small parts" is dumb but doesn't really affect anything at this point. I think it's interesting to see many chasing weight. I'm glad the optics are more durable, and choices have improved I think competition drove this. I think the classification system is a bit
  3. My Gen 3 17 has Dawson's, a 13lb recoil spring on a steel rod, an OEM ext mag release, a connector, "competition" trigger spring, and Silicone Carbide smeared on the grip. Don't think it's why I'm B class in Production.
  4. I shoot G17s with OEM barrels, I've shot cast lubed, and cast coated bullets almost exclusively, well over 90% of total volume. Aside from during load development and bullet experiments (I cast my own sometimes) I've never had bad leading. I go 2-5k between cleanings with normal shooting and then just because it's been a while not because they need it with no extra steps to remove lead fouling. Test, figure out what's happening and why, then fix it. Inspect occasionally.
  5. I have a set, maybe a few, because why not. They're in my main CO gun for sure, many thousands of rounds, none underwater, no issues.
  6. With Hi Tek my Glocks are happy at .357 dia, careful flare and crimp. Blue Bullets coating is fine at .355.
  7. Take it you're not using the PTX? Incomplete/nonexistent flair is a good indication something moved. Have my measure in position 2 it hits the primer mag if it rotates which stops it without issue. Only low/no charge has been from the die bushing moving letting the whole measure rise, very obvious.
  8. The LnL takes patience to get working just right. The measure should be more consistent than that though. Tap the hopper an/or run a few cases and dump to settle in after filling/adjusting. Mine is + usually - 0.1gr with the flakiest I've used, and spot on with ball. Ditched powder check long ago. You probably need to adjust the drive pawls to prevent shellplate jumping, it's likely snapping into the detents instead of being driven into them. A less than 45° turn on the pawl can have a huge impact. I have never messed with the balls on any of my shellplates. I had to ad
  9. M&P 2.0 9C Size, capacity, feel, reliable, and accurate. AIWB. A class CO shoot a pair G17s - because I had them. Production sometimes with G17 or P120.
  10. If it's a regular split roll pin you can take a chisel or screwdriver and spread the pin some, should be able to make it very tight.
  11. The polymer frame walthers are pretty small. Not sure on the steel.
  12. Welcome, ammo is expensive, if you reload you can make believe it isn't.
  13. Drop them in the empty buffer tube, behind the spring and buffer.
  14. Headstamp doesn't matter much in .223, in some other calibers the volume may vary dramatically. Sort .223 only for utmost precision. Clean, lube, size, swage, trim, load. If loading 55gr. H335 is a great powder. Most accurate fmj load I ever shot was pushed by Benchmark. There are a Ton of suitable powders crack a manual, you'll be able to find something.
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