Secretariat Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 I am debating on whether to get Froglube or Weapon Shield as a CLP for my 1911 pistols. Anyway, for those of you out there who have tried both Froglube and Weapon Shield, how do they compare to each other when it comes to lubrication and fighting off corrosion? Which CLP did you like better? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Absocold Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Froglube smells nice but it feels icky and doesn't dry unless you put it on so thin you worry if there's anything on there at all (I am not throwing my gun in an oven every time I clean it). And having a gun wet with lube gets lube all over everything, attracts dirt and makes the gun hard to hold onto. I was really hoping Froglube would work out for me but I hated it. So I'm back to the old tried and true standby, the original military CLP. No experience with Weapon Shield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerTrace Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Take a look at G96 if you like that kind of stuff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Absocold Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Tons of sorta-scientific tests to be found online. The above pic was shamelessly stolen from another forum. Break Free (US military CLP) often does well on these, Frog Lube not so much. Remember that these are corrosion resistance tests and not lubricity tests. But after witnessing first-hand how well Break Free works as a lube even after a gun has become so hot the oil isn't even smoking anymore, I'm a believer. And when the military first started using the stuff they had to re-chrono all their cannons because it gave more projectile velocity than the old oil. Sooner or later science will come up with something even better. But for now I'm still using the same stuff I've been using for 30 years. PS. Do not buy new production Break Free. The new stuff is no longer meets DoD Mil-L-63460 standards. G96 is probably your best bet if you don't have gallons of the original on hand. Or you can go here and go down to #44 on the list: http://www.sprucemtsurplus.com/grease-oil-sealant.htmlI'll probably give G96 a try after I run out of the good stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinready300ex Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 I run Weapon Shield and I'm very happy with it. You can check search Weapon Shield vs Frog lube on youtube and find a video comparing the to done by George the inventor of weapon shield. His videos are pretty interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPostman Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 (edited) I hear that Frog Lube is made from real frogs so there is your difference right there. Fresh reptile oil vs the ancient stuff in the ground. I also understand that they have an abundance of frog legs after the process so if you are hungry I hear they taste like chicken.....yuk yuk Edited October 21, 2015 by MrPostman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frgood Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 I"ve recently switched fro Frog Lube to Weapon Shield. Long term storage was on factor. FL seemed 'gunky' after stored for a few months. Weapon Shield is coming off a very slick, easy to work with (like any oil) and the grease is unsurpassed on my rails. I highly recommend Weapon Shield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 mobile 1 full synthetic. Buy a quart and itll last you a lifetime... I run it on all of my guns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonytheTiger Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 mobile 1 full synthetic. Buy a quart and itll last you a lifetime... I run it on all of my guns. Same here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Absocold Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 When asked about using motor oil on firearms I tend to advise against it. Even the synthetic brands are designed to operate at temperatures much lower than what the outside of a gun barrel will experience. Not to mention that these oils are much less effective when dry, will stain almost everything non-metal it touches, has virtually no cleaning properties and is not designed to be a preservative. There are those that are very happy using it though. ymmv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 (edited) Dried oil...hmm. All motor oils have a detergent package and seal conditioners, they are in fact designed for those purposes. Due in part to many years working in an oil analysis lab, many years working in the race industry and several grad courses in tribology, I came to see the vast majority of "gun lubes" for what they were...lubes from other industries with little or no modification and huge markups. I have, over the years run various tests on the lubes that were given to me on prize tables, in boxes with guns, etc. For several years, I used a mix of ATF and synthetic motor oil. Under testing, which included analysis of metal wear on an SEM and several ASTM friction test standards, it performed better than anything that was on the market. I combined that with Brian Enos Slide Glide, which also tested out better than the competition. When FrogLube and FireClean came out, I tested them as well. I figured out what they were made of and tested them in extreme conditions following their instructions as well as tests not following their instructions. What I found is that they were worse than most of the typical gun oils on the market in several areas, so I merely moved on. When I got a bottle of Lucas Extreme duty gun oil, I just went on to test it like any else figuring it would be about the same as the typical stuff. But I was wrong, and I kept testing it. I was impressed and endeavoured to learn more about it and test it in harsher and harsher conditions. That is what I use now due to the performance benefits. Lucas did later offer me a sponsorship, which I took, not for the free oil, but for the opportunity to be able to give out samples to friends and work with a company who has high standards and acts with integrity...something sorely missing in the firearms industry in the last few years. They have recently come out with several new products, a few I have tested and talked about, like the Metal Polish. Others, I am still testing and evaluating under standard test protocols and on my own firearms. I'll not recommend them until I have thoroughly vetted them myself. I will say that if you are using a Synthetic motor oil, using a heavier weight and adding some synthetic ATF will increase the performance. Edited October 21, 2015 by MarkCO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerTrace Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Good post....Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Markco what weight oil do you prefer, and what ratio atf/oil do you run? Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 For a synthetic mix, I used 30wt oil and mixed 50/50 with the ATF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Absocold Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 OP was asking for recommendations for a CLP. Motor oil is only very good at the "L" part of CLP and then only when wet. If you really must use something from the auto parts store, ATF is better than motor oil as a firearms CLP but it contains red dye so is even worse about staining things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Lucas' gun grease, the blue stuff, is pretty good stuff too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 I have been using the Lucas grease for about a month now. Still have some cold tests to do on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygiant Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 MarkCO which Lucas products do you recommend then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 (edited) The ones I have tested fully are both gun oils. The Extreme for most things and the gun for hunting guns. The contact cleaner works great too. The metal polish is amazing. I use it to clean the out side of guns in a soft cloth, polish internals, machined surfaces on a dremel felt, with corn cob media in my brass tumbler. I also used it for cleaning the patina off a copper pipe where we could not get a shark bite fitting to seal. Amazing product! Am testing the CLP, bore cleaner and grease still. So far they look good. Edited October 22, 2015 by MarkCO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shootingchef Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 bacon grease....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPatton Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 As for fighting off corrosion I have never seen anything that comes close to Gibbs Oil. My son rebuilt an old Honda 550 and wanted to leave the gas tank in the white. By the time he would have one side cleaned the other side would have surface rust on it. He rubbed it down with Gibbs Oil and has been riding it for more than 2 years. It hasn't rusted yet. Now I put it on all my shooting hardware. You can find it on line. I have never seen it anywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Absocold Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Getting off the gun topic but on the note of leaving things in the white, you can let something get a light coating of surface rust (or even deliberately cause it) then wet it down with Ospho. You can buy it at an automotive paint supply store or get it online. Ospho chemically converts iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate (an inert material that is a great paint primer). I've used it quite a bit with amazing results. The rust first turns black then turns a powder white color. And that spot will never rust again. Even the iron exhaust headers on a car won't rust anymore after being Ospho'd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Will it damage guns? Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Absocold Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 No but I wouldn't really recommend it on any bearing surface. And a gun has a lot of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bkreutz Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 To prevent corrosion on guns that don't get used, I use Boeshield. http://boeshield.com/ It was designed by Boeing to protect tooling that wasn't being used (and it's pretty damp up here in the PNW) I use Froglube on my competition guns but since I shoot around 50K a year so they get used constantly. The trick with FL is not to leave any visible lube on the gun. If you leave it globbed on, it will thicken into a waxy deposit. The directions say to wipe it completely off after application, the residual does the lubricating. Haven't had a failure or jam that wasn't ammo related. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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