Trooperdan Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 I have just gotten a wild hair to use a S&W m25-2 in .45ACP in local club matches that aren't sancitioned USPSA events. I have a long but not expert experience competing with 1911 platforms in IPSC and Glocks in GSSF, just want something different for a while. What changes to the gun should I consider? What is a good holster? Full-moons or speedloaders? It has the factory grips from the 70's when I bought it. I am a reloader if that matters. I know, lots of very ambiguous questions but this is such a new area for me I just don't know where to start! Any advice welcomed and considered! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reuel_f_emery Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Welcome to trooper dan... I shoot a 625 but several of my friends have Model 25's. We all use the Hogue grips M25....suggest you use moonclips. which for me seem to require less fumbling. If you like the grips on the gun, they will work. the M25 seem to really tame the recoil. Since you reload, you might consider making several clips of round nose dummy rounds to practice reloading... good luck Reuel Emery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bones Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 (edited) You know the moonclipped 45ACP revolver was invented because they couldn't make enough 1911s, right? Good news - There are plenty of 1911s now. If it were me, shooting an unsanctioned match, I would down load it so it didn't hurt. Enjoy. Craig Edited August 30, 2013 by Bones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ede Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 depending on your budget and how far you want to go and how quickly you want to get there here is what I'd do Weigand blade rear sight FO front sight change grips chamfer cylinder trigger job change cylinder release Since it doesn't sound like you need to make PF I'd load down. I liek CR Speed holsters, others do as well and others don't. Lot of modifications and equipment is a personal choice with no right or wrong way to go about it if it works for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 You know the moonclipped 45ACP revolver was invented because they couldn't make enough 1911s, right? Good news - There are plenty of 1911s now. If it were me, shooting an unsanctioned match, I would down load it so it didn't hurt. Enjoy. Craig Someone said that to me last night at practice, and there were only two of us there so it must have been you.... As suggested, if no pf requirement, turn down the volume....way way down. Major in a revolver is not fun for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trooperdan Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Guys, thanks for all the tips! I understand and agree with everything so far. Ede, I do have a question about changing the cylinder release, what options are available there? I checked out the Weiland sight blade and like the looks of it. I see that some 625 shooters are using .45GAP brass, not sure of the advantage of that. I have a lot of GAP brass but I think I'll stay with ACP, not that much of a gamer. Keep the advice coming! Still looking for a holster, SafariLand/Bianchi didn't have anything for my 6" M25 and I didn't want to go to a competition holster like the CR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 I've been using a Blade Tech DOH, without the Drop. It's adjustable for angle but that's about it. The major thing is I take a dremel and cut a slot about halfway down the front of the holster so the barrel clears quicker. Without it I don't like the holster as I don't like drawing to my arm pits! Chamfer Cylinder Grips FO FS if you're a seasoned competitor I like the S&W factory .160 RS now, and with a kit it's easy to install whereas finding RS's that fit the tang of the older ones may be a bit more problematic. Action Job, can do yourself without a lot of effort As for the Cylinder Release, I like the original and I load mostly with the strong hand. If you like loading with the weak hand you can go with a Hogue, or similar, extended release. Dillon sells a few different, Hogue sells them and I'll bet Midway/Brownells will have a good selection. If you switch hands during the reload and use the strong hand to handle the moon clips, it works well to just rotate and press on the factory release. If you like keeping the Revo in your strong hand and reload with the weak hand handling the moon clips, then a taller, extended rear ward release will allow you to keep your hand from moving. Either way works well and have advantages and disadvantagesl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckaroo45 Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Ahoy Trooper, the equipment required depends on how far you want to get into revolvers. I have a 6" M25-2 along with full on competition 625's. I found the 25 to be somewhat slower to draw and load and can't recommend it for hard core competition tho I'm sure there will be disagreement. However, for the sheer enjoyment it's hard to beat any N frame 'Smith. Just don't try to compare to bottom feeders as revo's are a completely different game. For just sticking your foot in the water I'd suggest some day glo paints from a crafts store and hit the top inboard corners of the rear sight and a contrasting color for the top of the front sight. They are cheap and can be removed easily with a q tip and alcohol to experiment with different combinations. As for holsters I'd suggest the Side Armour at around $75. Yes, they aren't fast but they're not $200 either. Remember this is for fun first. My 25 accepts moon clips but I don't know if stock 25's will. Somebody here knows. Precluding moon clips go with 7-8 speed loaders at around $12 - $15 each and Safariland ammo pouches. That's about as cheap as you can get into revolvers without committing a bunch of $ to modifications. There's LOTS of ways to go if you get hooked but you won't be out a lot of $ if you decide to go back to other platforms. Just remember this game is supposed to be FUN and you'll be better off. There's time enough for obsessive / compulsive. Who knows ... mebbe you're the next Jerry M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earplug Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 If it has the wide target trigger, replace it with a narrow trigger. I like a smooth polished trigger. Buy a extra hammer to dehorn to fit at the same time. Keep the original parts for the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 If it has the wide target trigger, replace it with a narrow trigger. I like a smooth polished trigger. Buy a extra hammer to dehorn to fit at the same time. Keep the original parts for the future. I agree on this, but I guess it's user preference too. I like smooth triggers, one of the first things I did when I got my 625 JM was get rid of that grooved trigger and put on a smooth. Chamfer cylinders is a must for speedy reloads, and a good trigger job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirpy Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Remember, if you use speed loaders you will have to get .45 Auto Rim brass. Otherwise you are good to go with moon clips. 230 gr. rn bullets are the only way to go also. Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ede Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 Dan there are several options for aftermarket release. I use Hogue and there's a lot of metal there if you want to reshape a little. There's others depending on what you like or find that works for you. As for taking any advise from me I'll say I have fun much more than have success shooting revolvers. There are a lot of others here who shoot better and know much more than me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trooperdan Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 Some great info here guys, I really appreciate it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VIPERONE Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 Reloading for a 25. As best I remember the 25's have pretty shallow rifling. I seem to remember some issues with lead bullets back in the day. If yours has any issues shooting lead, you might go with plated bullets. This was from years ago. We have a much better selection of bullets available today. I have been using GREEN Sight Brite sight paint on my old SSR/Classic revolver a S&W 64. It works very well on the front sight. My new SSR/Classic revolver a 686-5 has a Green Fiber Optic front sight. I am not sure I do not pick up the painted one a little better. I like the Hogue grips also. Trigger Job You might do the trigger job yourself, paint the front sight, order grips, and try it like that before spending any real money on permanent alterations to a Classic revolver. You can live without chamfered chambers for a while. If you do send it to a gunsmith, then look at Chamfered Chambers, Ball Loc, and possibly a change to a pinned on front sight. I would run moon clips, unless you have a really good reason not to. It is nice to take home all your brass at the end of the day, not to mention the speed of reloading issue. Then we have the selection of ammunition carriers. Good selection of moon clip carriers. I would guess that you would need to have a kydex carrier for the HKS 45AR speed loaders made. Get a moon clip checker. It is a machined aluminum cylinder replica to make sure your reload will go in the chambers of your revolver without issues. You will probably bring your ammunition pre loaded in moon clips to the match. Doing this you can check them in the cylinder at home. IF you need to load moon clips at the range you will need the checker. Good luck with your 25-2. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 I have used a 6.5" 25-2 off and on in competition for more than 25 years. Here's what I recommend: Hogue rubber grips Hogue long cylinder release EGW FO pinned front sight Millett target rear sight (now discontinued) action job and aggressive chamfer Ranch Products moonclips 230-gr. RN jacketed bullets North Mountain moonclip holder whatever holster you prefer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwx40x40 Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 I have used a 6.5" 25-2 off and on in competition for more than 25 years. Here's what I recommend: Hogue rubber grips Hogue long cylinder release EGW FO pinned front sight Millett target rear sight (now discontinued) action job and aggressive chamfer Ranch Products moonclips 230-gr. RN jacketed bullets North Mountain moonclip holder whatever holster you prefer Most important the 230 RN FMJ's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 Most important the 230 RN FMJ's Agreed. There are people (mostly the little old hens on the S&W collector forum) who will swear they have experienced good results shooting cast lead bullets from 25-2s, but that has never been my experience. Every 25-2 I've handled has the tendency to spit cast bullets dang near sideways, leaving obvious keyholes on the paper. (I currently own six 25-2s, and have handled a bunch of others.) They sometimes shoot better with cast bullets sized .454" or .455", but it's a whole lot easier to just stick with jacketed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ignatz Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 Would fitting a 625 cylinder to the Model 25-2 solve the lead spitting problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 Would fitting a 625 cylinder to the Model 25-2 solve the lead spitting problem?It should. The problem is the 25-2 cylinders/chambers have oversize throats. The 25-2's I've measured have been .454-.456. In a perfect world they'd be .4520-.4525. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trooperdan Posted September 2, 2013 Author Share Posted September 2, 2013 (edited) Wow! Glad you guys mentioned the problems shooting lead, that would have been my first choice! How would Berry's plated bullets work? I have a bunch of their 185 HBRN that I load for a Glock 36. Edited September 3, 2013 by Trooperdan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S&WIowegan Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 Wow! Glad you guys mentioned the problems shooting lead, that would have been my first choice! How would Berry's plated bullets work? I have a bunch of their 185 HBRN that is load for a Glock 36. The Berry HBRNs might work because they will obturate to fill the over-sized throats. I used these bullets years ago but only in 625s. One reason the old ladies think lead shoots well in 25-2s is they only shoot single action off a bag at 10 yds. or less...really. They post photos of one hole groups. They collectively went nutz on Clint Smith when he said(in a personal defense column) that one should never shoot a DA revo in single action mode....meaning don't cock your damn revo first and then shoot. It sounded like most of them had never actually shot their revos DA. Bob IA203 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 For 25 yards and under the 185 HBRN are ok, past that check the groups. Most guns I've used them in didn't group well at 50 yds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underlug Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Would fitting a 625 cylinder to the Model 25-2 solve the lead spitting problem? It was a necessary repair to mine (Apex Tactical). The cylinder throats were oversized and the cylinder itself was not trued. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cherryriver Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 I blew a lot of time and energy with a four-inch 25-5, thinking I'd have an IDPA gun I actually liked and then could occasionally use for USPSA. I got a nice deal on a lightly-used one and then shot it a little with the original .45 Colt chambering and some old handloads I had laying around from my departed New Service. It shot fine. I sent the cylinder down to Rantoul and excitedly rushed it from the post box to the chrono box.My regular Bear Creek moly 230s that usually run 760fps in my Government Model popped out of the muzzle and maybe by bank shot made the chrono screens with a pokey 600fps. I should have looked at the ground for where they skipped on the way to the chrono. Some others with WST "propelling" them, and I use the term loosely, couldn't even make 600.Some X-Treme plated 230s with 310 smashed through to a rousing 625fps. Older Winchester White Box 230 FMJ soared to a 700fps average over six rounds.Cylinder gap tight. Accurate with the Bear Creeks, too- I stayed on a popper right well at 30 yards without even trying. Maybe two bounces to get there, though. Finally got the calipers into the chamber throats: .454". What a waste.A lovely doorstop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now