cohland Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 (edited) Shooting a Glock G35 in USPSA Open Division, I use a Lone Wolf threaded barrel (LWD-3540TH) and a Lone Wolf compensator (LWD-COMP40). I want to be able to completely strip the pistol for cleaning, meaning the compensator has to come off and be re-installed regularly. I have written to Lone Wolf for suggestions, but haven't heard from them yet. Do you routinely remove the compensator to clean the barrel? There is a single set-screw on the compensator, I know I can use red Loctite (262) on that, and it will work, within reason. If I use green Loctite (620) I'm concerned that it will hold so well that I'll strip the threads of the set-screw trying to remove it. Has anyone used plumber's teflon (PTFE) tape on the compensator threads, in combination with Loctite on the set-screw? Keeping in mind that the compensator will come off the gun regularly, has anyone used Loctite on the compensator threads? Thank you, Chris Edited July 20, 2013 by cohland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 I've put Teflon tape on the threads and I don't recommend it. I shreds as you screw on the comp and pushes into the first chamber. Are the threads machined down where the set screw touches? Is the set screw pointed or cupped at the end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohland Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 I've put Teflon tape on the threads and I don't recommend it. I shreds as you screw on the comp and pushes into the first chamber. Are the threads machined down where the set screw touches? Is the set screw pointed or cupped at the end? There is a flat spot on the barrel where the set screw is supposed to land. The set screw I have is flat at the end, I think I'll go get a pointed one, now that you mention it. Thanks for the pointer on the tape! Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 (edited) If you want a removable comp, take out the setscrew and drill, tap and counterbore for a screw going crosswise under the barrel. Then run a slitting saw down the middle through the setscrew hole to the front of the barrel. Then you can thread the comp on and off all you want with no loctite or any other compound. Just loosen the screw to remove and tighten it to retain. This works because you are clamping the threads of the comp into the threads of the barrel. There is a huge surface area there plus the wedging action due to the shape of the threads. Some reloading dies have a stop collar made like this. Edited July 20, 2013 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EkuJustice Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 I woudnt use green if you want it to come off. Red or blue on the set screw and call it a day if you want it on and off. It really does not need to be removed as you can move the barrel down and clean it from the chamber end still with the barrel and comp in the gun. The other compensator manufactures recommend it not be removed all the time to clean. I would also look at upgrading the comp to something like the Jager comp which works with the barrel you have. and works much more efficient than the lone wolf comp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glk21C Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Shoe-goo on the comp and barrel threads. Let it sit for a few mins then screw together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 (edited) Shoe-goo on the comp and barrel threads. Let it sit for a few mins then screw together I think I might try that. Edited July 20, 2013 by kneelingatlas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadyscott999 Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 (edited) Use this. 2000* hold strength. Soak in water to release. Good stuff for comps. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/168884/flexbar-rocksett-high-temperature-thread-locking-compound-2-oz Edited July 20, 2013 by Shadyscott999 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muncie21 Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Has anyone tried using a thin 'backing nut' similar to how an AR15 buffer tube is secured to the lower? I have a Saiga muzzle brake that is also secured this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitefish Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 I use Loctite 242 (blue) on both a 9mm Lone Wolf comp and the set screw for ease of removal. It seems to hold just fine for the few hundred rounds you would go between cleaning. Just about any other Loctite flavor will make it difficult to remove the comp (and set screw) for regular cleaning. If you want to use red Loctite, you will have to apply heat to the set screw/comp/barrel to remove it (small butane torch). If you are ok with that, then use the red if you feel more comfortable with the security. Just don't torque the small set screw too much and strip it while trying to remove it. That is the danger using anything but blue Loctite. I wouldn't use green Loctite on the set screw under any circumstance for that very reason. BTW - You can do a reasonable job of cleaning the gun, barrel, and comp without pulling the comp off and removing the barrel. Just slide the barrel hood all the way to the front of the slide and do your best to clean around it. Run a bore snake through the barrel to clean it inside if you want. That is what I do with the other open Glock with a Jager aluminium comp installed with high temp red Loctite. There is no way I will remove that comp for routine cleaning. It is on there until it wears out. I've run several thousand rounds through the gun without issue and clean it every 500 rounds or so just as described. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadyscott999 Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 IIRC, Green and Red Locktite are the same strength and heat rating. The only difference is that the green is designed to "run up" the threads of parts that are already assembled. My problem with threadlockers on comps has been heat. Open guns can quickly get hot enough for normal thread lockers to breakdown. That is why I posted the link to the rockset. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/168884/flexbar-rocksett-high-temperature-thread-locking-compound-2-oz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohland Posted July 21, 2013 Author Share Posted July 21, 2013 ...There is no way I will remove that comp for routine cleaning. It is on there until it wears out. I've run several thousand rounds through the gun without issue and clean it every 500 rounds or so just as described... While I understand the reluctance to remove the compensator, the reason I want to do that regularly is that carbon builds up at the muzzle, between the barrel and the compensator. There's enough there after just a couple hundred rounds that it needs to be scraped off with a bronze brush. I am trying to avoid letting that carbon build up to the point that is on the barrel crown, where I think it would have a noticeable effect on accuracy. If your compensator-barrel fit is tight enough, that may not be an issue for you, but it is a potential problem on this gun, even with the Jager compensator. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHLChris Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 (edited) My auto parts store has this stuff: Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant Anybody know about this stuff? It is easier and cheaper than buying a 2oz container of Rocksett and paying for shipping. They say it is for car engines, but a gun muzzle runs just as hot. Edited February 23, 2017 by CHLChris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rishii Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 I've used it on my comps in place of loctite 272 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Service Desk Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Loctite 620 and use Primer AFTER degreasing both parts, leave 24 hours and then shoot. 620 is high temp rated, takes up a big gap and works fine on active and passive metals (remember the Primer). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ano Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 mine are all loctited. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikieM Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Loctite is probably best. Back in the day if I wanted to remove the comp later I used green. If not, then red. I have some blue Loctite, number 246 that may work. It's claim to fame is that it's heat resistant. Good for use around hot barrels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHLChris Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 8 hours ago, rishii said: I've used it on my comps in place of loctite 272 Did you ever remove the comp? How did it go using the Permatex? Does it just break loose with pressure or does it require heat or water? None of their documentation describes how it releases. 2 hours ago, ano said: mine are all loctited. Blue loctite? Doesn't it release with the heat of shooting and twist around? Are you loctiting the threads or just the set screw? 37 minutes ago, MikieM said: Loctite is probably best. Back in the day if I wanted to remove the comp later I used green. If not, then red. I have some blue Loctite, number 246 that may work. It's claim to fame is that it's heat resistant. Good for use around hot barrels. I've never heard of heat-resistant blue. I thought the only heat resistant was the red, which requires a torch to remove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacala Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 On my Open Glock 17, I used Blue Loctite,a pointed grub screw and calculated where to put a small dimple in the barrel thread.( Blue Loctited the barrel thread and grub screw thread ) Needs a bit of heat on the rare occasions when I want to remove comp. Never had any problems taking apart or comp coming loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikieM Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 19 minutes ago, CHLChris said: Did you ever remove the comp? How did it go using the Permatex? Does it just break loose with pressure or does it require heat or water? None of their documentation describes how it releases. Blue loctite? Doesn't it release with the heat of shooting and twist around? Are you loctiting the threads or just the set screw? I've never heard of heat-resistant blue. I thought the only heat resistant was the red, which requires a torch to remove. Nope. I searched high and low for this stuff. Finally found some at a supply house in New York. Very expensive. It's Loctite 246 medium strength Threadlocker Hi-temperature. Part no. 29514. Whether it would secure a comp to a barrel is something I don't know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rishii Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 37 minutes ago, CHLChris said: Did you ever remove the comp? How did it go using the Permatex? Does it just break loose with pressure or does it require heat or water? None of their documentation describes how it releases. No I never tried, I don't want my comp to unscrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glock26Toter Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 (edited) Another suggestion might be Vibra tite VC-3. It's like Shoe-goo but I've never used Shoe-goo. I use Vibra Tite on all my mag pouch screws and any screw you don't want super tight... but don't want to move either. Edited February 23, 2017 by Glock26Toter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottieShootz Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 35 minutes ago, Glock26Toter said: Another suggestion might be Vibra tite VC-3. It's like Shoe-goo but I've never used Shoe-goo. I use Vibra Tite on all my mag pouch screws and any screw you don't want super tight... but don't want to move either. Vibra tite I think is what Odin Works ships with all their rail kits for the barrel nut. I may give that a go in the future if I remove my comp or it comes loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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