edu jimenez Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 hi guys which is the best product to clean the compensator and where can it be bought regards from spain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 (edited) Rather than use chemicals I find it is easier to give comps the occasional cleaning mechanically using a brass rod with a chisel point to scrap the inside of the compensator ports. Easy on the comp metal, less potential of screwing up your barrel crown with the brass rod, and it doesn't take very long to get most of the junk out of the comp. I've used chemicals in the past with only mediocre results, and in one case where I soaked the comp it softened up the locking goop (not sure it was loctite) and loosened up my comp. Ok, there is one element which does work very well, and that is mercury (Hg) but it is not recommended unless you have the resources and equipment to handle it properly. Edited December 17, 2012 by Bamboo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Pistolero Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 As far as I have found, there is no chemical out there that can clean the carbon out and not destroy anything else. I soak the comp with Shooters Choice to loosen the carbon. If the build up is real bad, I'll use an engine turning brush on a dremel to get it out. You have to be real careful around the crown. From then on, spray the comp with Dillon case lube after every stage. This keeps the carbon loose. When you clean the gun, use Shooters Choice and a cotton swab and most of the carbon will come out. For any that is left, I use a piece of a Scotch brite pad soaked in solvent. Lock the pad in the end of a pair of hemostats and clean out the ports. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 Drimmel with an engraving bit, the carbon flies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neomet Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 I've actually had great luck with Frog Lube. Heat the comp up with a hair dryer, put FL in there and let it sit for about an hour. Then take a strip of a Scotchbrite pad, and work it with a comp cleaner/screwdriver. Once you get it clean lube the comp up with a bit more FL and it deters the crap from sticking. After the first time you do that you dont't have to heat the comp again. I just clean mine every time I clean the gun. Easy, quick and my comp is shiny clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 Frog Lube is good as a pre-lead treatment. I have had good luck pouring Kroil in the comp chambers and letting it sit for 3 or 4 days. It will get between the lead and comp and make it much eaiser to get out. Then use the Frog Lube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40S&W Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 I use a stainless steel wire brush in my Dremel and it takes about 2-3 minutes to clean it like new. As far as the bore of the comp I use a reamer once or twice a year. Using Montana Gold CMJ's also make a big difference, no exposed lead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNsTeR Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 I use a stainless steel wire brush in my Dremel and it takes about 2-3 minutes to clean it like new. As far as the bore of the comp I use a reamer once or twice a year. Using Montana Gold CMJ's also make a big difference, no exposed lead. http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/SubCategories.aspx?catid=2064&catname=Polishing+Brushes Which kind of wire brush? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desmo412 Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 I use #532 Stainless Brush. Be careful to keep the brush inside the ports...it can work through a blued/parkerized finish very quickly. The stainless brush was the only one that would put a dent in the carbon buildup. I have since installed a new comp and am trying the froglube trick mentioned above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40S&W Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 I use a stainless steel wire brush in my Dremel and it takes about 2-3 minutes to clean it like new. As far as the bore of the comp I use a reamer once or twice a year. Using Montana Gold CMJ's also make a big difference, no exposed lead. http://www.dremel.co...lishing Brushes Which kind of wire brush? Looks like the 537 but with the brush head of 531. The ones I use I get at a flee market for a $0.50 (made in China) and last for two comp cleanings. Work well and the comp looks like new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNsTeR Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 I tried taking a wire brush -- similar to the #532, came with my RTX, not sure if it's SS or carbon -- to my comps today. It was reasonably effective, and certainly the best combination of effective and safe that I've tried so far. A ball cutter removes the crap faster but if you're a klutz like me you end up leaving gouges where they shouldn't be. That said, it didn't really do a good job on the really thick spots, or the really hardened spots. Which is not really surprising. I should just give up hope of finding a miracle cure (short of a blasting cabinet perhaps) and resign myself to applying some elbow grease. One aspect of comp cleaning I haven't seen discussed anywhere yet is deposits of jacket material. Both of my comps have thick layers of Montana Gold jacket material deposited in the bottom of the first chamber. I'm sure copper solvents will attack it but there's far too much material there to dissolve in any reasonable time frame. Scraping and dremeling work of course, but not very well since it's so much harder than the carbon deposits that dominate the other chambers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40S&W Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 I tried taking a wire brush -- similar to the #532, came with my RTX, not sure if it's SS or carbon -- to my comps today. It was reasonably effective, and certainly the best combination of effective and safe that I've tried so far. A ball cutter removes the crap faster but if you're a klutz like me you end up leaving gouges where they shouldn't be. That said, it didn't really do a good job on the really thick spots, or the really hardened spots. Which is not really surprising. I should just give up hope of finding a miracle cure (short of a blasting cabinet perhaps) and resign myself to applying some elbow grease. One aspect of comp cleaning I haven't seen discussed anywhere yet is deposits of jacket material. Both of my comps have thick layers of Montana Gold jacket material deposited in the bottom of the first chamber. I'm sure copper solvents will attack it but there's far too much material there to dissolve in any reasonable time frame. Scraping and dremeling work of course, but not very well since it's so much harder than the carbon deposits that dominate the other chambers. I tried taking a wire brush -- similar to the #532, came with my RTX, not sure if it's SS or carbon -- to my comps today. It was reasonably effective, and certainly the best combination of effective and safe that I've tried so far. A ball cutter removes the crap faster but if you're a klutz like me you end up leaving gouges where they shouldn't be. That said, it didn't really do a good job on the really thick spots, or the really hardened spots. Which is not really surprising. I should just give up hope of finding a miracle cure (short of a blasting cabinet perhaps) and resign myself to applying some elbow grease. One aspect of comp cleaning I haven't seen discussed anywhere yet is deposits of jacket material. Both of my comps have thick layers of Montana Gold jacket material deposited in the bottom of the first chamber. I'm sure copper solvents will attack it but there's far too much material there to dissolve in any reasonable time frame. Scraping and dremeling work of course, but not very well since it's so much harder than the carbon deposits that dominate the other chambers. I've been using MG CMJ bullets for several years in my open guns, 38SC & 9mm and have not seen any jacket material build-up yet...only carbon. Personally, I have never heard of jacket material build-up, lead & carbon yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Monster you might have some contact going on between bullet and comp? I have never found copper from MG's in my comp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 40 S&W When bullets are hitting the comp you get tiny copper flakes all thru out the comp you don't get a wad like copper colored chewing gum in the first port, like long term use of non CMJ bullets lead deposits. You can also see fine hair line marks going crosswise to the comp walls. Something is definatley a miss in there. If you got crud piled up to the bore line, its time to get the drimmel out and get with it. I've only seen this once, not my gun, but I darn near melted the drimmel on the first port, but in the end it won. Take it out shoot some 10 shot groups, if you got wild flyers then its messed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1911Prof Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 This is timely for me. Last year i replaced my comp with a Dawson comp and in addition to flattening out the gun i started noticing copper deposits in the first chamber that look like little wads of chewing gum after about 1000 rounds. I had never had fouling like this before so i figured it was the rapid expansion and cooling in the large first chamber. There is no problems with accuracy so i dissmissed the bullets hitting the comp, but it is a pain in the ass to clean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNsTeR Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Nothing's wrong with either of these guns (well one of them has a shot-out barrel but that's neither here nor there). One of them has deposits that were built up totally by myself, the other came to me this way second-hand. They have different configurations but the same comp (Bedell titanium). I can't speak for the second gun, but the first one I simply never cleaned the comp until the deposits got seriously bad. It was my first open gun, and I didn't know any better. Through the first few thousand rounds, I didn't see any appreciable build-up, so I just ignored it. By 10-12k though it had carbon deposits half way up to the bore. Didn't have any problems, but it seemed like something that shouldn't be allowed to continue. I tried various chemicals with little effect, then resorted to chiseling it out with a hammer and punch. I never got it truly clean though, as it's just too much work. I suspect that if one were to start from a clean comp and keep it clean (I found the combusion chamber cleaner linked above works quite well on surface fouling that resists other solvents), these kinds of thick deposits would never become a problem. Unfortunately it's difficult to get from here to there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0s3ph Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 +1 with steel wire and dremel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeAZ Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Frog lube and get a set of cheap dental picks, works fine for me. I have a Nowlin comp/chamber reamer. It makes for a true barrel/comp line up...No bullet strikes.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryO Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Here's another vote for frog lube. This stuff is great. I even use it on my c-more lens with great results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dapribek Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Gunzilla & a dental pick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronswin Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 An ultrasonic bath works fairly well for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimpy_ak Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 An ultrasonic bath works fairly well for me. yep, then use a dental pick scrape out the corners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cecil Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 where do you get Frog Lube ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvinc78 Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 Froglube.com Then go to dealer page... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cecil Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 found some on Amazon... its already shipped.. It is just like any other recoil spring. I change my open gun springs around 5-6000 rounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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