hopalong Posted September 4, 2004 Share Posted September 4, 2004 I have recently aquired a Smith & Wesson 646, 4 inch L frame, .40 S&W only, titanium cylinder. I was playing with it at the range this afternoon and noticed that after I shoot all 6 shots quickly the brass will not eject until you give them a little time to cool (a second or so) I intend to shoot this gun some in IDPA and ICORE and that is not allowable at all, the brass should easily come out and like my 625 maybe just open the cylinder and turn it up and they fall out on their own. What do I need to do? would polishing the cylinder holes with flitz stop this problem? All help and info greatly appreciated as I really like this little gun. Sam Keen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted September 4, 2004 Share Posted September 4, 2004 running hot loads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hopalong Posted September 4, 2004 Author Share Posted September 4, 2004 Flex, No not hot loads, these make 140,000 max 155 grn jacketed bullets, tite group, small fed primer. Hop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Burchfield Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 I had an old Dan Wesson one time that would only fire and eject Federal brass. Anything else would stick when fired. These were really hot loads for silly-wet matches. It could also be the titanium cylinder. It's probably worth a call to S&W about it. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackdragon Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 From my experiance selling the titanium guns, Use nickle cases, they tend not to stick, the .44 mags are the worst. If you send it back to smith they will tell you to use better ammo. Ivan SCS Vegas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajarrel Posted September 10, 2004 Share Posted September 10, 2004 Hopalong, I have a 646 that I have only shot a box of 170 pf reloads through, but I didn't notice any probs ejecting brass. I may be wrong, I think that titanium is a very stable metal and I don't think it has a expanding problem when it gets hot. The only time I have had problems with brass not ejecting properly (not in the 646) was when I was shooting hot loads in a dirty cylinder. Hope you figure it out. dj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revchuck Posted September 26, 2004 Share Posted September 26, 2004 Sam - Don't be afraid to whack that ejector rod. I do it even though my loads don't stick...well, aside from the max loaded .357 Mags. . If yours had a steel cylinder, I'd recommend that you get the chambers polished, but I'm not sure that's a good idea with titanium. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airedale Posted September 26, 2004 Share Posted September 26, 2004 Sam, Jean ran about 150 rounds through her 646 yesterday without hangups. Have you had any progress with yours? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdgun Posted September 26, 2004 Share Posted September 26, 2004 Hopalong, Not to put it or you down but, the problem you discribe is the reason people don't use the 646 in compitition. The titanium heats up and you know, the cases get stuck.for matches I would use your 625. The only thing I would do is try to find a little slower burning powder,it might keep the heat down a little. good luck, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hopalong Posted September 26, 2004 Author Share Posted September 26, 2004 Thanks for the info guys/gals I have not got to play with the 646 much at all, I am planning on using it in IDPA and ICORE matches and maybe as a concealed gun. I have polished the cylinders with Flitz and a dremmel tool, look much better but have not shot it yet, I do like the idea of nickel brass as I also have a fairly good supply of it, will try that too. I will get back tou you with the results, as The TN IDPA state match is in 3 weeks and I want to be confident in the gun, otherwise the "other shootin iron" (trusty 610) will have to make the trip. Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynn jones Posted September 26, 2004 Share Posted September 26, 2004 sam, try some hornady one shot on the bullets to see if lube will help. try a silicon rag too. lynn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 Hopalong, Not to put it or you down but, the problem you discribe is the reason people don't use the 646 in compitition. The titanium heats up and you know, the cases get stuck.for matches I would use your 625. The only thing I would do is try to find a little slower burning powder,it might keep the heat down a little. good luck, John Hey John! I shoot my 646 in competition all the time, and I'm seeing more and more of the newer non-PC models around. For example, there were several of us shooting them at the MO State IDPA Championship a month ago. I won the SSR expert division with my 646, so it can be done! My gun has been great, and now that the solid moonclips are finally available, I think it's the perfect IDPA revolver--for me, anyway. Of course, a 4-inch 625 would be great for that task as well. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northern Xtreme Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Carmoney, At the risk of sounding stupid, what is a non pc model? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diehli Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Carmoney, At the risk of sounding stupid, what is a non pc model? Non-Performance Center would be my guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajarrel Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Sam, I just re-read your original post and finally noticed that you are using titegroup as your powder. One thing I have noticed with tg is that it is a "hotter" burning powder. My gun barrel gets hotter and stays hotter longer. That being said, the brass may be expanding from the heat of the titegroup and until the heat is given up to the titanium cylinder they tend to stick. This isn't dig on Titegroup, it's all that I use. But it does burn hotter. FWIW dj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.carden Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Northern, PC models are a upgraded version of a so called "mass produced" gun. For instance, a model 625 PC (.45) will a have a different stlyle barrel, slighty improved action job, chamfered charge holes and a few other variations that a regular non-Performance Center has. And of course, a higher price tag too!! So, a non-PC is just a plain-jane gun, no bells & whistles. Dan ( good luck with the grip ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vikings501 Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 I will second what blackdragon said, I had the same problem until I switched to all nickle cases and the problem went away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeFoley Posted October 8, 2004 Share Posted October 8, 2004 A few thoughts on this one... My 646 had this problem in its infancy. I found that factory ammo, nickel brass, new brass, once fired brass, and a full length sizing die all made it go away. You might also check your moonclips to make sure they are flat and that there is not a bent one in the mix. Stay away from AMERC, S&B, and really used brass. They tend to stop even autos dead in their tracks sometimes. I also ran a soft brush, and a cotton bore mop through each hole in the cylinder on the end of a pistol rod chucked up in my drill. Be careful not to let the cylinder spin, and make sure your passes are straight. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted October 9, 2004 Share Posted October 9, 2004 Sorry guys, but if you gotta use nickel-plated brass to prevent the problem, something ain't right with the cylinder. My 646 (non-PC) extracts everything beautifully. Sam, how's your gun work post-Flitz? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hopalong Posted October 11, 2004 Author Share Posted October 11, 2004 Carmoney, Have not got to play with it, went to MO last weekend, MS this weekend, TN IDPA next weekend, ARK 3-gun the weekend after that, then 1 weekend off then MS IDPA. Looks Like it will be a while before I can play with it. HOPALONG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 Hopalong-- Better to be shooting than just sitting around polishing your rod, right? Young Sam and I have sorta switched over to 1911s on a semi-temporary basis--the inaugural Iowa Single Stack match is this Saturday down in Osceola. Now that he's learned to do a speed reload with a .45, he understands the "extra challenge" he's been saddled with since his old man started him out on a wheelgun. Good for him in the long run, though..... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 "temporary basis,Carmoney?, You and young sam will be assimilated into the bottom-feeders club, resistance is futile" Yours truly, the guy you ruined by introducing him to competitive shooting........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted January 22, 2005 Share Posted January 22, 2005 I've bumped this to top again, because I have the same problem with my new wheelgun I'm intend to use for the World Shoot. And of course, I don't want any stuck brass there :S Sam, did you try the Flitz method? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hopalong Posted January 22, 2005 Author Share Posted January 22, 2005 Spook, Funny thing you bumped this thread.... Finished Flitzing the 646 and the clyinder bores are really shinny now, have shot it in 1 IDPA match (about 100 rounds) and used lead just to see if it would stick... the last one stuck at the end of the match and the gun was pretty dirty, must have been some of the tite group loads for the Browning Hi-power. (Contrary to popular belief, Titegroup and Lead is DIRTY) Have not shot "clean" stuff through it to see how long it takes to stick, if it does at all as the loads I have that are clean are really clean. Before I did the Flitz job the brass would stick after shooting it maybe 15-20 shots so it definately did help. I did not use nickle brass either, but that does make sense. hope it helps Spook... USE the old Faithfull and just have the other as a Backup... SAM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted January 22, 2005 Share Posted January 22, 2005 Sam, thanks for the fast reply I will try out a couple of things. I noticed my .45 load got a little dirtier, because I changed it a little. So, I'll change that back first. And I will polish my chambers. Good to hear it helps (at least a bit) Plus I think I'll have my smith measure the differences between the chanbers of the two guns. If my new gun has tighter chambers, I'll have my smith widen them up. I hope I don't have to switch back to ol' faithful. That gun is so worn out, I doubt it will make it to the World Shoot without some serious repairs. Besides, the new gun gets me about 10 PF more with the same load. And the new gun has a trigger that is sweeeet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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