fellas Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 hi guys i can get a free crimp die which one you get from these the lee factory crimp, redding or dillon thanks fellas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcracco Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Not Lee factory crimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splitime Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 i use the Dillon one. but i only use it to remove the last of the belling, not really crimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlockCanMan Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Nothing wrong with the Lee die. It is a taper crimp. As stated in the post above mine, it is mainly to remove the bell, but does a little crimping also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Remember, unless you are loading lead bullets you don't need the lee factory crimp die. The taper crimp on 9mm "ONLY" takes the bell and rough edge off the case. All you need to do is have a smooth transition on the bullet to the case. DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 I use a Dillon crimping die. It's the only Dillon die left on the press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProGunGuy Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 i use the LFCD as the last step for everything from lead/plated/FMJ. Don't even need to adjust for different bullet material. Don't recall having any problems chambering the ammo, unless it was the OAL was wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieHunter Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Depending on the size of the bullet, if it is lead, I wouldn't use a LFCD - the carbide sizer on the end will swage your bullet down. Have seen it time after time with friends trying to figure out why they keep getting leading. I honestly don't see what all the hype is on a LFCD; just another marketing gimmick to me. Personally, I'd go with Dillon or Redding, either one is great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FightFireJay Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Depending on the size of the bullet, if it is lead, I wouldn't use a LFCD - the carbide sizer on the end will swage your bullet down.... While I have experienced this with my .40 S&W reloading (so I purchased a Lee Taper crimp only), it doesn't seem to be an issue for 9mm (at least for me). I am guessing it has to do with the fact that the case is slightly tapered. I have a Redding profile crimp for .38/.357 and it produces beautiful crimps. (both a taper and a roll are possible with that die) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 I use a Lee FCD and have for years for both 38 super and 9 mm major loads for Open. I also use it for minor in my X-5 Sig and 1911. It works great for all of the loads and none are loaded with lead bullets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warpspeed Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Dillon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Ideally you use case mouth tension to retain the bullet, all you need to do after seating the bullet is to make the sides of the case straight ( Gee, just like factory ammo). If the expanding die, powder drop expander or whatever you use expands the case to the extent you can push the bullet further into the case then you need to turn it down some, easiest way is to just polish it with emery paper. Also it is good if the resizing die reduces the case sufficiently to end up with the "wasp waist" appearance after the loading cycle is complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fellas Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 thanks for all you input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rfwobbly Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 Lee makes two (2) crimp dies for the 9x19 Luger cartridge. You MUST be specific about which Lee crimp die you're discussing... ► There's the Lee "Factory Crimp Die" HERE ► There's also a Lee "Taper Crimp Die" HERE The Redding and the Dillon are similar to the "Taper Crimp Die" in that they simply remove the belling and have no moving parts within the die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNsTeR Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 Lee FCD, won't use anything else Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinj308 Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 Lee FCD for everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProGunGuy Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 if you sort your brass by headstamp then a FcD probably would not be needed. use mix brass like me, and the FcD will deal with the varied thicknesses of brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 if you sort your brass by headstamp then a FcD probably would not be needed. use mix brass like me, and the FcD will deal with the varied thicknesses of brass. By squishing your bullets down to a smaller diameter. We're not making this up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 The Lee Factory crimp die for pistols was made to make sure an oversized lead bullet would still chamber in a semiauto pistol. It works great for that if you are making your own lead bullets out of a die and then using alox for lube instead of sizing when you lube the bullet. It is not necessary for jacketed/plated bullets but won't hurt them unless you overcrimp them, which is easy to do with the knob on top... DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FightFireJay Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 if you sort your brass by headstamp then a FcD probably would not be needed. use mix brass like me, and the FcD will deal with the varied thicknesses of brass. By squishing your bullets down to a smaller diameter. We're not making this up... This is not always the case, I'm not making this up. My 9mm FCD sometimes squeezes an excessive flare and often sizes the very base of the brass, but almost never feel that swaging resistance at the top of the cartridge. (.40 S&W is a different story) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scootertheshooter Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 Dillon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNsTeR Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 if you sort your brass by headstamp then a FcD probably would not be needed. use mix brass like me, and the FcD will deal with the varied thicknesses of brass. By squishing your bullets down to a smaller diameter. We're not making this up... Does not happen in 9mm, due to its taper. Measure a bullet, load it, pull it, measure it again. No change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I've wasted money buying FCDs for 38/357, 44 mag, and 45 ACP. The carbide sizing ring at the base caused me no end of grief with cast & swaged bullets. I take great measures to ensure properly sized & lubricated bullets. My equipment is top of the line (Star), and I use the best lubes available. The last thing I'm going to deal with is a twenty dollar die that resizes my bullets, based solely on the thickness of the case walls. I understand some people are having some success with the FCD, although I don't know how sometimes. I have checked & rechecked my results, and the FCDs were undersizing my bullets. And now they're gone... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bk94 Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 I have been using Hornady for 9mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baer45 Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 I have been using Hornady for 9mm I have used most of the crimp dies at one time or another, and Dillon does just fine...if its free, so much the better! Marine Corp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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