Bench height and width recommendations for a new dillon progressive wi

[Mav3rick]

Hey guys;

I plan on buying my first Dillon progressive press soon (still trying to decide between RL550B and the 650). Anyways, I need to build a new workbench for whichever one I decide to go with. My current bench I originally built is kind of small, and holds my rockchucker on it along with some powder measures and a lee single stage press, so there isn't enough room. I also built it lower so I could sit at it while reloading. So I am looking for suggestions on how high and wide and long I should make this new bench. I have been reading that reloading with a progressive should be done from a standing position or from a seated position on a stool with the dillon presses so that you can see everything that is going on and also so you can verify powder charges in the case visually. I am also planning on getting the strong mount so I know that needs to be taken into account with regards to the height and I plan on mounting the extra toolheads on the back side of the bench just behind the press. Please let me know what dimensions you guys use and recommend. I'm 5' 11" tall.

Thanks,

Mav

PS-If press choice is also a deciding factor in the correct height, I guess you can go with the 550 as I am leaning towards getting that one right now.

Edited September 30, 2012 by Mav3rick

[Braxton1]

I would build the bench twice as big as you think it needs to be. Nobody ever says, "Damn, this bench is simply TOO BIG!". Most of us have the opposite problem.

As for height, I agree with the "standing" part on any press that has priming-on-the-downstroke (every press besides a RL-1000 or 1050).

To get the right height, may I suggest waiting until the press that you buy and its Strong Mount are bolted together. Put the assembly on top of a few tables of different heights to try. I want the bench at the height where at the end of the downstroke, I am not having to do that little "bend over" or "lean over to the side" to get that last inch or so of handle travel. I want to simply straighten my arm out and have the handle stop. For me, that measurement is 37 inches from floor to benchtop for the RL-550 and 38 for the Super 1050, but I am 6'5" tall. I use a 37 because that's just how it worked out, and just a little short is OK, seeing as how most people are slightly bent over while loading anyway...

Just for shiggles, now that you've got me thinking about this, I think I may have come up with an ergonomic solution that accounts for the following:

- height of your relaxed hand above the floor (the human component).

- height of the bench/Strong Mount combination

- the "drop-down of the handle at the bottom of the downstroke

The distance from the web of my relaxed hand to the floor is 32.5 inches. I've already established that "perfect" for my body is 37 inches. Does it make sense to simply add 4 or 4.5 inches to the "hand-to-floor" measurement, or am I being overly-simplistic?

Edited September 30, 2012 by Braxton1

[pmclaine]

I modified the NRMA reloading bench plans. A quick Google search of NRMA will bring you to a PDF of the plans. I had a cabinetmaker build mine because though having the skills and tools to build the plywood version I figured to stick with my day job. In the end as happy as I am with my bench I think I got a great deal. There is no way I could have built what the cabinetmaker came up with.

Edited September 30, 2012 by pmclaine

[nwsnowbum]

My old bench was 38" high, 6' long, and 2' deep. It was great and I felt the height was just right for my 1050's. I am building a new reloading room and bench. It is 20' long, 3' deep and I liked the 38" height so much I didn't change that. It allows me to load either standing or from a high stool. I went back and forth on the depth more than anything. You don't really need too much depth, but sometimes it comes in handy on other projects.

Peg board and shelves are nice for storing stuff that is easy to access. I thought about drawers and cabinets but I like to be able to find stuff quickly without opening a bunch of things.

[mcracco]

pmclaine: Nice work!

My bench with 1050 and RockChucker is ~32" high. I am 6'6" and sit in a regular chair for the single stage but prefer a high shop type stool with adjustable legs for the Dillon. I have stool adjusted so I sit at the edge in an almost standing position. Very comfy.

[Mav3rick]

Awesome feedback everyone-thanks!

I like the idea of waiting to build a bench until the press comes in. I thought about this more and I think that it is a good idea. A lot of you have also described your work space dimensions and they are very similar to my current but smaller length bench. What I am now planning on doing is remove everything that's currently mounted on it (rock chucker, 2 powder measures, etc.) off and then mount up the strong mount and dillon. Then I can see how it feels, how the handle lines up with my shoulder (suggestion from another site), see how comfortable it would be from a standing, and then from a slightly seated position on a wooden bar stool I have laying around in the basement.

PMclaine-nice bench man! That is some beautiful craftsmanship. Whoever did that for you is really talented.

[98sr20ve]

No Strong Mount. For STANDING 48"

I am 5'9". All you do to prime is lean forward. You don't even have to push. Just subtract the height of a strong mount if you want it with the strong mount. I had my 650 and 550 set on a 2ft wide bench at that height and then the rest of the bench at 42" I love not bending over at all when I work at a bench.

[benos]

Dimensions here:

http://www.brianenos.com/pages/dillonfaqs.html#bench

[Mav3rick]

Thanks again Brian!

[PingJockey]

I modified the NRMA reloading bench plans. A quick Google search of NRMA will bring you to a PDF of the plans. I had a cabinetmaker build mine because though having the skills and tools to build the plywood version I figured to stick with my day job. In the end as happy as I am with my bench I think I got a great deal. There is no way I could have built what the cabinetmaker came up with.

Very nice bench! I can't tell for sure, but it looks like it is made out of maple. I had a similar bench, years ago, that was 8' long X 30" deep X 36" high. I quit reloading almost 20 years ago, sold the bench and most of my equipment. I retired, a few years ago, built a new home right smack dab in the middle of 300 acres, (my motto is, if you can't shoot off your porch, you are to close toy your neighbor ), and have a renewed interest in shooting. Soo, I have been lurking, checking out new eq., benches, load data, and buying new pistols.

[pmclaine]

I modified the NRMA reloading bench plans. A quick Google search of NRMA will bring you to a PDF of the plans. I had a cabinetmaker build mine because though having the skills and tools to build the plywood version I figured to stick with my day job. In the end as happy as I am with my bench I think I got a great deal. There is no way I could have built what the cabinetmaker came up with.

Very nice bench! I can't tell for sure, but it looks like it is made out of maple. I had a similar bench, years ago, that was 8' long X 30" deep X 36" high. I quit reloading almost 20 years ago, sold the bench and most of my equipment. I retired, a few years ago, built a new home right smack dab in the middle of 300 acres, (my motto is, if you can't shoot off your porch, you are to close toy your neighbor ), and have a renewed interest in shooting. Soo, I have been lurking, checking out new eq., benches, load data, and buying new pistols.

Yes sir its maple. Thank you for your compliments. I really enjoy that work area.

My original intent was to follow the NRMA plans using plywood. Just kicking tires getting prices I was shocked to find that cabinetmakers can build nice stuff cheap. I valued their skills correctly but undervalued their thrift and economy. The entire materials list for that bench using plywood per the NRMA plan was going to cost me over $1K. I got it built/delivered and made using nicer material for $2K and I didnt have to risk any fingers. If you are good with woodworking tools and have all said tools and the time it would be a fun job. If you already have a job and may not be the best cabinetmaker - let a pro do it.

Congratulations on your new living arrangements. Sounds ideal. Be safe and enjoy getting back into the hobby.

Edited October 5, 2012 by pmclaine

[The Guy]

I modified the NRMA reloading bench plans. A quick Google search of NRMA will bring you to a PDF of the plans. I had a cabinetmaker build mine because though having the skills and tools to build the plywood version I figured to stick with my day job. In the end as happy as I am with my bench I think I got a great deal. There is no way I could have built what the cabinetmaker came up with.

man thats a good looking set up. if you dont mind me asking what did it cost

[PingJockey]

man thats a good looking set up. if you dont mind me asking what did it cost

He priced it in the previous post...2K. I had guessed around $2500.00. The maple butcher block top alone cost north of $500.00. You can get butcher block tops made out of pine for less than $200.00, but they aren't nearly as solid or heavy and won't hold up.

[The Guy]

Wow that's a pretty penny for a bench but if you build it they will come

[WillM]

Check out Grizzly Industrial. Workbenches, heavy steel legs and oak workbench tops all reasonably priced. I have the heavy steel legs with a laminated maple top I use in my farm workshop and it's very sturdy.

[Mikelindsey]

I got this from lowes and it works great.http://www.lowes.com/pd_2218-55738-LWWB08-3D4563_0__?productId=1235425&Ntt=work+bench&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dwork%2Bbench&facetInfo=

[moonman16]

For press mounts you might want to give a look at

InlineFabrication.com

Dan makes some really fine stuff.

[JLeeCZ]

Mine is close to complete. I will be ordering a 550 from Brian when finished, stained/painted. How close to the right front edge do I mount the strong mount for best placement of the 550? I will have about 2" of overhang on sides and front once the top is secured. Back will be flush.

Edited December 7, 2013 by XDMer

[Brassaholic13]

Sorry for not reading all of the replies...but... Just a quick answer.

Whether building a bench for standing or sitting, the most ergonomic position for the bench height is 2" below your elbow when bent at 90 degrees. So if you're going to sit, you had better pick out your preferred chair or stool first.

[Sarge]

Mine is close to complete. I will be ordering a 550 from Brian when finished, stained/painted. How close to the right front edge do I mount the strong mount for best placement of the 550? I will have about 2" of overhang on sides and front once the top is secured. Back will be flush.

Might be ahead to just wait until you get the press and mount. Put it all together and place it last. That way you know your handle won't hit the table. I think for my 650 the SM is about 1" from the edge.

[JLeeCZ]

Thanks for the help. Sure it will make sense when I put it all together.

[katit]

Speaking of prices and options. My bench is all welded from angle and square tubing. 16ft long and at 2 levels (on a left I made it high so I can roll toolboxes under).

It is bolted to the wall at each stud and on outside we cut legs in place and welded. Then bolted to the floor.

All metal + work was $600. For top - I bought butcher block countertops from IKEA on sale. Two of them for $130. The one on a right is at 38 inches. I drilled small holes into the frame, put a bead of liquid nails and screwed top to the frame. This thing is NOT going anywhere. Press mounted next to the leg, there is no movement whatsoever.

I load on a mechanics chair and height adjustment good enough for me to get into proper position.

One thing thats good is bullet tray, but I can't have it since I don't have(need) strong mount. I'm trying to come up with a good design to mount tray in ergonomic position. Or maybe just get bullet feeder