WillM

I’m in AZ so after I wet tumble, I spread the brass out on a towel laying on a chair in the sun so it has air flow below it. After an afternoon out, I’ve never had any residual moisture. And in the case of a cloudy or cold day, our clothes dryer has an insert which fits into the drum and I place the towel and brass on that. Set to high, it’s dry in no more than 45 minutes (and there’s no evidence that there was ever any brass in there)

After almost ten years of pulling the triangular handle of my 1050 I went with the Inline Fabrication ergo handle. Like it so much I got one for my single stage RCBS too. I like it so much I decided I really don't need a Mark 7. Did I mention that I like it?

Sporting clays

We'll see how it goes in Miami when our flight is leaving at midnight! Hopefully we can wake up, er, round up a customs agent at that time to tell us we're good to go.

If anyone is planning to leave the USA with a firearm, please be aware that US Customs and Border Protection has implemented new regulations which are very difficult to comply with. This is far more complicated and onerous than the Form 4457 which is still required. I have just completed the pre-travel portion of the paperwork and it took me the better part of three hours. I don't leave until May 4 and won't be back until the middle of the month so I won't know how it worked out until then. The requirements are so complicated that the only conclusion that can be drawn is that the government is trying to prevent or greatly reduce then number of travelers with firearms leaving the country. In a nutshell they have decided that by taking a firearm out of the USA you are exporting it and must enter it into the AES (Automated Export System) before leaving the country. In order to gain access to the AES, you must first obtain a EIN (Employer Identification Number) from the IRS. It doesn't matter if you already have one for your business, you need to obtain a different one for AES purposes. Next you need to register with AES which will eventually require you to obtain three separate user names and 12 character passwords. The first username and password gets you registered in the system as an administrator. Next you must create a new username and password so you can get access to the thirty question test you must pass with a 90% score. After you pass the test, you need to create a filing username and password to enter a EEI form (Electronic Export Information) into the AES. Since I passed the test, I was fairly familiar with many of the terms but still had to call the help line twice. I finally got the green light and was able to enter my EEI into the AES and shortly after received my ITN (International Transaction Number) which verifies that my EEI was accepted and is on file with the AES. If this sounds incredible to you, how do you think I feel? I'm living the nightmare... Having traveled overseas with guns for the past 25 years I've had my fair share of run ins with heavy handed border and customs agents but I never in my wildest dreams imagined anything like this. And I haven't even left yet. I'm required to offer my gun for inspection and get verbal approval from a customs agent two hours before I leave the U.S. from Miami, at midnight- hope I can find one! Safari Club International (SCI) has been taking the lead in trying to get Customs to be reasonable but so far the answer has been "these are the rules". I can't link to SCI as all the information I've gotten from them has been secure email, but you might be able to find info by including SCI in a search. The specific Customs site is at help.cbp.gov. Search for "temporary export of firearm". If you want to do your own paperwork, like me you can go to aesdirect.census.gov. If you want to pay someone to do most of the paperwork for you like my two buddies I'm traveling with did, look for Coppersmith Logistics. You still need to obtain a EIN. Like I said, a nightmare.

Airguns of Arizona is in your backyard. I stopped there yesterday on the way home from Rio. 1970 W Elliot #109 Chandler, AZ 480-461-1113 I like to eat at Joe's BBQ in Gilbert then stop at AoA

THIS

Had almost the same thing in a CZTS with Winchester white box. Can't remember if I posted it here but the case looked almost exactly like Benellishooter3's above except it didn't lose the base. Never contacted anyone except Angus who built it and he sent me a new extractor and all was good. Local experts analyzed it as firing out of battery because it looked like the case tried to eject with the barrel about 1/16" away from the breech face.

Just ordered four 40cal. 140mm for my limited gun - full price....ordered last night, shipped this morning, they'll be here Wednesday. Life is good. Maybe by the time my new steel gun is built I'll be able to get a discount.

Not so sure that nothing would happen in all instances. Normally using a 1050 to load 9 major, when I get a .380 case I feel something different on either the deprime or prime station. Several times I've caught it with my visual powder check as I'm about to place the bullet - I look into every case before placing bullet. Somehow this one got into the loaded case bin but I found it during case gauge. This has reinforced my resolve to check (by looking into each case for proper powder level) and double-check (by case gauging) each round. As the picture shows it would be easy to load the cartridge made with a .380 shell casing, on the right in the picture, into a 9 major gun. I'm not too sure the results would be real pleasant considering there are 7.7 grains of Silhouette in that load.. 9mm case on left. .380 case on right

jmorris, I don't even have a 650 (SL 900 and 1050 and 550) but get a lot out of reading your posts and enjoy the very cool way you've set up and modified all of your machines and your reloading practices. For my money you're one of the most knowledgeable and positive contributors on this board. Thanks.

I hated it so much I'm moving to Arizona full time instead of just for the winter. Shot in the rain in Tucson once.... but it only lasted for a few minutes! I love the sunshine and yes, it's a dry heat.

Read this first: http://shotgunreport.com/2012/01/30/seven-steps-to-shotgun-heaven/ The prices are outdated but the advice is not. Before you buy anything go to your range and ask to shoot a variety of guns. As long as you provide factory shells (none of your reloads in my gun please) you'd be surprised how accomodating people will be. If you just have to buy something DO NOT be seduced by a 28" O/U because of the price unless you're positive that's what you want. 30" or 32" barrels will serve you much better in the long run. Can't go wrong with a used B gun (Browning or Beretta) in O/U. Many guys are rocking the A400 for sporting clays and that would be my best recommendation for an auto. An older friend of mine, former M shooter now plagued by recoil and gun weight issues recently switched from a Perazzi to the 400 and is shooting better than ever and loving it. I've shot it several times and it's a real shooter but no way am I switching from my K80.

Getting ready to order a few MBX magazines and noticed a place to enter a discount code on order form. A search here didn't turn one up so I thought I'd ask if anyone knows of one.

And I remember when it took something a whole lot more interesting than rapid grocery delivery to get me excited! LOL!

I've loaded 1000+ rounds of 9major on the 1050 since my original post at the end of January. Results so far (hope I don't jinx myself) are very positive. I replaced the case feed cam and primer slide with Dillon's updated parts and although I hadn't used the machine for a few years, by memory it is operating much smoother than it did previously which I attribute to the updated cam. As for the primer slide, I've had to remove the white primer feed cover only once which was due to an upside down primer (RF100) that didn't feed properly and was semi-crushed. All in all, very much worth the $90 I gave Dillon for the two parts. Also I have the clear, half round case collater funnel on the case feeder and have never had a problem with 9mm cases stacking, but previous experience of many years with a SL900 case feeder with the exact same funnel taught me not to overfill the bowl.

Had both mine done a couple of years ago after a lifetime of thick glasses and contacts. 20/15 in both eyes ever since and my reading glasses don't bother me at all. Now I know why an optometrist told me if I was lucky I'd get cataracts early.

HS6 is what I was leaning towards and HS6 it shall be. 9 Major I forgot to say. Thanks guys

currently loading 7.7 gr Silhouette over 124 gr MG. I have my choice of one of the above. Criteria: must make major, prefer cleanest burn. Which would you choose?

Never thought about the color of bins before but I mentioned this thread to my wife and since she's my color consultant if and when I need one I asked her about this. She assures me the two bins on the right are the same color but the smaller ones are different. The one on the right and the ones on the left came directly from Dillon and the one in the middle came from Enco. Her question was "who cares about this?"

Sorry I do not know how to link it, but check out a thread I started a week or so ago titled 1050 Puzzle. In one of the later posts I included the brass roller dimension and a picture.

Just got off the phone with their customer (non)service; yada, yada, yada, it's our policy, it's set in stone, we can't substitute lesser quantities, nothing we can do, etc.,etc., etc. Does no good to point out that someone ("management") made the decision to handle it this way. Does no good to suggest that maybe I would have been happy to pay the higher price or accept a lesser quantity. Does no good to suggest that maybe they could have notified the back order people that lesser quantities at a higher price would be available to them before releasing it to anyone who was lucky enough to think about placing an order that day and just happened to open that page at the right time - it never occurred to me to open it because.....I had already ordered it! My conversation with both the CS rep and his supervisor was polite and to the point, no rant there or here, just expressing my frustration and disappointment with the situation and reminding them that there is plenty of competition in their business and that I'd be looking elsewhere in the future because of how they'd have chosen to handle this, all of their apologies and finger-pointing (at the manufacturers, the computers, the system, management) notwithstanding.

Where do you think in my back order it said "good for 30 days". How do they accept my order over a year ago, periodically email me reminding me to keep my credit card information up to date to ensure my order is still valid, then suddenly inform me that the order is cancelled all the while offering the same product to the public at large, probably at a much higher price than promised me? I'm not randomly demanding a price from 2013, they offered it to me at that price and when they couldn't fulfill it immediately offered to send it at a later date. How do they all of a sudden find product 14 months later and not offer it to someone who's been standing in line figuratively speaking? If your business considers actions like that to be good customer service, I'm glad I'll never have reason to do business with you.

I've been in the process of moving residences and downsizing space but cannot part with enough long guns to fit in the two safes I now have in the new house. Solution was to put a third safe in a storage unit but I had to compromise there also and get one that is smaller than I prefer. Solution was a product called rifle rods. No point in taking pictures as they look the same in my safes as they do in the pictures on Amazon and on the company's web site. My purpose here is just to report that they're working very well for their intended use which is storage of long guns for which I do not need everyday access, although my storage unit is available to me 24/7 if I need something. These are guns I want to be able to get to without unloading the whole safe but don't take out everyday except during the appropriate season such as waterfowl shotguns, upland shotguns, PCP air rifles, varmint rifles, big game rifles, etc. when I'll rotate them into the house. Obviously I haven't been through the seasons with this method yet although I've done many tests and I can unequivocally state that with the rifle rods I can easily access the guns in the back of the safe without having to move an unreasonable number in the front and that I've now got more available space (to add more guns.....?) than I did when I started. I have read all the reviews and seen YT video so I'm not going to repeat any of that but I do have a couple of points that might save you some time and/or money. First I didn't want to buy the complete set because it included the loop Velcro part at a very high incremental cost so I started by ordering just two .17 caliber rods which I knew I'd need (actually need a few more) and got with my wife's Amazon Prime. I tried them in current safes to see if they'd stick to the existing fabric as recommended online -it didn't so I went to Joann fabrics with one of the rods and started trying different types of cloth until I found a gray felt fabric that was identical to the lining in a previous safe I had and it stuck perfectly. For $2 I got enough fabric for all three safes and then I spent $6 for a can of Elmers spray glue. Ordered several more of the add-on six packs of the rods and now my safes are much better organized and accessible. The only negative I had read is that some people think they are too flexible but with the butt stock properly positioned I have 12 gauge o/u's and autos as well as a couple of heavy dangerous game rifles securely positioned. Short guns are secure too. Sorry for being long-winded but I just wanted to let you know that this is a product that works for me - no affiliation with company.

My 14 month back order was canceled by Midway yesterday also. If they were being honest they would have added "at that price" when they said not available from manufacturer.