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1050 went KABOOM!


Bigpops

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Folks, it has been said numerous times....but it must be said again...WEAR YOUR GLASSES WHEN RELOADING!

I now have an inoperable 1050, a fused together primer system,Federal SP primer fragments everywhere and about 10 years off my life. I had a primer fail to punch out and as the brass went to the primer station it went BOOM. I was hit in the face and on my glasses. In one way I am thankful that I require reading glasses to see up close because they saved my eyes.

Please...please wear them!(and anyone else around you as you reload)

:cheers:

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Folks, it has been said numerous times....but it must be said again...WEAR YOUR GLASSES WHEN RELOADING!

I now have an inoperable 1050, a fused together primer system,Federal SP primer fragments everywhere and about 10 years off my life. I had a primer fail to punch out and as the brass went to the primer station it went BOOM. I was hit in the face and on my glasses. In one way I am thankful that I require reading glasses to see up close because they saved my eyes.

Please...please wear them!(and anyone else around you as you reload)

:cheers:

Glad you are OK.

I found me some safety readers for reloading.wink.gif

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Glad you are okay.

This is the reason that I have the swage rod in mine. When the handle gets springy I know I have a problem.

I had some cases that, when de-primed, left the sides of the primer cup in the case. I felt the handle get springy but ignored it. I set off a few primers because of this. Scared the crap out of me.

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Glad you are okay.

This is the reason that I have the swage rod in mine. When the handle gets springy I know I have a problem.

I had some cases that, when de-primed, left the sides of the primer cup in the case. I felt the handle get springy but ignored it. I set off a few primers because of this. Scared the crap out of me.

I hear ya! I left my rod in too. The problem was I just finished loading 1000 rounds of 38TJ on my other 1050 (which loads like butter). I loaded maybe 20 rounds of 9mm for the Mrs on the other 1050 when I had to reload the primer tube. After that, a few rounds into it, I felt the "spongy feeling" you speak of but my brain didn't register yet.....it was too late.

In hindsight, I should have taken a break before I jump on the 9mm machine. This is the third time I have had primers light off...all on 9mm. This one has caused the most damage though. It SUCKS! :angry2:

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I've had quite a few mangled primers in my 1050 and have been surprised that one never lit up before. Had that happen on the 650 twice, but never a tube. Glad you are okay. That would scare the crap out of me. +1 on the eye protection! Ear protection isn't a bad idea either.

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I've never seen a 1050 up close before, but from the drawings I gather that the priming system functions more like the LNL in that the primer comes down the tube and is pushed along a slide into the priming station, as opposed to the 650 which puts a ton of primers in close proximity on the primer wheel. I assume for this reason that when you do detonate a primer in the 1050's priming station it is less likely to cause the remaining primers in the tube to detonate. Is this correct?

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I've never seen a 1050 up close before, but from the drawings I gather that the priming system functions more like the LNL in that the primer comes down the tube and is pushed along a slide into the priming station, as opposed to the 650 which puts a ton of primers in close proximity on the primer wheel. I assume for this reason that when you do detonate a primer in the 1050's priming station it is less likely to cause the remaining primers in the tube to detonate. Is this correct?

You are correct. I have had them pop twice before but in both instances they were singles. For some reason.....and I cannot explain now due to the mini heart attack....the whole darn tube lit off this time. My best guess is that the primer slide was positioned just right, the subject brass and primer popped just right and the flash scooted down the primer slide to the waiting filled tube. Just my quess.

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ST,

I had the same thing on my 650, but only about 30 primers.

The first thing you check is fingers... if you can see your fingers... then you check your shorts.

The good thing about it is that you can use the deafness thing around the SO for a while claiming the ringing in your ears. :cheers:

Serious, glad you are ok!

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I KB'd my 1050 due to poor maintenance. The primer feed tip needs replacing ever 5k rounds or so because when it wears it can feed an additional primer now and again. Not a big risk on a 550 where there is plenty of room for it to fall. On a 1050, there is a good chance it will end up I front of the slider bar. My press crushed this primer and had a sympathetic detonation that set off around 75 primers. I got lucky.

Lee

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This picture is of the sheetrock above my reloading bench. The switch arm from low primer sensor is embedded in the ceiling and the primer tailrod was pushed up with so much force it bent under the pressure and made an impression when it made contact. Couple that with the 75 primers rushing out behind it and I was very fortunate. A few parts from Dillon and my press was back up and going.

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When you mash the primers you also need to clean up the priming compound. If you dont and mash one in the station it can flash over into the tube. That is a likely culprit for some of the full tube detonations I have seen and heard of. I hit the primer slide with some brake cleaner or alcohol and wipe it off if I am in the middle of the batch.

Glad you are OK.

DougC

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Action Pistolero has given me a good idea on the 1050 priming system, switch to the 650 primer magazine. I am looking to do this on the 9mm machine at work to test it before hitting the one I use for my match loads at home. Plus they are free replacements from Dillon for my 650.

Wiping all primer residue up or at least blowing it away at the end of each loading session is best.

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Action Pistolero has given me a good idea on the 1050 priming system, switch to the 650 primer magazine. I am looking to do this on the 9mm machine at work to test it before hitting the one I use for my match loads at home. Plus they are free replacements from Dillon for my 650.

Wiping all primer residue up or at least blowing it away at the end of each loading session is best.

Are you referring to the internal primer tube? Are they a direct swap? Does anyone know why the 1050 tube uses a plastic tip instead of brass?

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Thanks for all of the tips, I really do appreciate it!

Doug - I will be more diligent cleaning the primer bar of residue - THANK YOU!

I shot a local match yesterday and was happy so many of my friends came up to say this post made them rethink wearing their safety glasses. We all get lazy/careless ...it only takes one time! :surprise:

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Guys, I have some time, so now I can post.

I don't think using the 650 tip is a good thing for most users, and here is why.

Loading mixed headstamp 9mm. You will get varying primer pockets, and some are tighter than others. When you have a tight pocket that the swage didn't fix, it mashed the primer. If it is half sticking out of the primer slide it has sharp edges and will mangle the blue tip, but will catch and jam on the 650 tip...ask me how I know :blink:

I can't speak for the pointy head guys at Dillon, but the blue tip is easily replaced when a mangled primer goes through. I run only processed brass and federal primers now, but still have issues from time to time with mixed brass.

Now, for experienced reloaders that are using a caliber like 38 super, 9 supercomp, etc. where there is no crimped primer pocket and only a couple of headstamps available, there should be no problem. With .40 becoming crimped with the NT brass and 9mm being just a monumental pain in the ass with primer pockets, I would recommend using the blue tips and every time you order parts to get a half doezen each time.

After about 5-10K of primers, here is what I do.

I pull out the inner primer tube.

I raise the primer slide arm, and remove the primer slide. (just pull it out the back, don't need to pull up the shellplate)

I remove the plastic adjustment tab on the primer station.

I pull the slide out and hose it down with non chlorinated brake cleaner and use a q tip to get in the recesses.

I use the tip of the hose on the brake cleaner to squirt from front to back in the slide raceway to clean it out.(use Qtip)

I check the rubber bushing on the slide and replace if necessary ( I know, I know, I use it and it works for me.... :goof: )

I put the primer slide back in and it should be really smooth in and out. Everyonce in a while I take a small dot of militec oil and put it on the bottom of the slide, use too little, not too much. The slide has to be free to move back and forth. If it doesn't, then get some high grit 1200 wet/dry paper,and a flat surface and polish the bottom and slide of the slide.

Reassemble.

If you do that every 5-10K you should not have priming problems and the risk of the primer issue should be mitigated.

The 1050 is an incredible machine. Keep it clean and lubricated and it will serve you well!

Hope this is helpful, and if I am wrong about something Gary will correct me...I defer to him.. :bow::D

Have a good one,

DougC

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