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Too hot


fiddler

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Absolutely THE BEST and THE CHEAPEST solution to your problem is to wrap the aluminum handguard with paracord.

You are welcome :roflol:

Now there's a solution I hadn't thought of before, insulating the handguard. I think I'll try it. The rifle is already more than 10 pounds so a little more weight won't hurt. I can probably just wrap the end I hang on to.

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Absolutely THE BEST and THE CHEAPEST solution to your problem is to wrap the aluminum handguard with paracord.

You are welcome :roflol:

Now there's a solution I hadn't thought of before, insulating the handguard. I think I'll try it. The rifle is already more than 10 pounds so a little more weight won't hurt. I can probably just wrap the end I hang on to.

Does not add that much weight, provides a better grip surface, and protects the tube.

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How about a CF handguard with holes, but with an added heat reflective coating on the inside?

Mick

That's one thing I have done. Coated the inside of my Pri with silver ceramic header paint. Can't say that is the answer, but I have been burned with other handguards, but not with this one. Outside has non skid tape over the bare carbon. I have found that the sun will really add to the heat a raw carbonfiber tube radiates if you leave your rifle laying flat in the sun. Either paint it, or cover it with something and you will notice a differance. I have not found holes to make any real differance.

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I have been trying to find somebody to do a heat dissipation coating on my barrel and JP heat sink. I asked JP about the heat sink and they didn't have an interest. Same company that does Cerakote does this coating "Transfer Black"

That along with a thermal barrier like this on the inside of the handgaurd and/or barrel nut would be something I would like to try.

The few places I have contacted about doing this seem set in their ways and too comfortable to try something new. The funniest part is both products are offered by NIC Industries/Cerakote. They wouldn't even have to find a new supplier or really even change what they are doing, just order a few more products(which I offered to pay for) and offer another service. If anybody is willing to try doing this for me, or somebody knows somebody who will......let me know. Thank you.

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I have been trying to find somebody to do a heat dissipation coating on my barrel and JP heat sink. I asked JP about the heat sink and they didn't have an interest. Same company that does Cerakote does this coating "Transfer Black"

That along with a thermal barrier like this on the inside of the handgaurd and/or barrel nut would be something I would like to try.

I'm pretty sure that putting anything on the heat sink will reduce the benefit of same OR heat up the hanguard faster. In order to keep the handguard cool, all else being equal, you want to inhibit heat transfer from the barrel and enhance heat transfer from the handguard. When you reduce heat transfer from the barrel, that can be bad depending on total thermal mass. I'm trying some ideas and should have some results in October sometime.

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I have a few questions...

If your shooting a high volume of rounds, which increasingly heats the barrel, which increasingly heats the handguard/rail, so hot you can't touch it. Then why would you want to trap even more heat around your barrel by cutting off what little ventilation it has by wraping anything completely around it? Doesn't the barrel typically begin to lose accuracy as it heats up? If the gas tube heats up, then the gas inside the tube will heat up, changing it's density correct? So would that not effect cycling on some rifles that may not be perfectly tuned or are finicky? Or am I thinking of this all wrong? :wacko:

I guess if your shooting close distances it won't matter as much but if your stage switches out to long distance wouldn't accuracy come into play? Or are the targets that big that accuracy is more minimal then I'm thinking it is for 3 gun?

Just trying to make sure I understand all this I'm still fairly new to rifles. Don't hate, educate...please. :D

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I was running a Troy TRX and liked it because the small diameter afforded a more secure grip on the gun particularly on barricades. However, it did tend to run hot.

I recently switched to an EGW 2.5" diameter forend primarily because it had a long bottom slot that I could mount my Versapod handstop to. I never notice the heat with this on. On the vertical barricades, if I need a tighter grip, I hook my thumb on to the Versapod's bipod spud.

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If your shooting a high volume of rounds, which increasingly heats the barrel, which increasingly heats the handguard/rail, so hot you can't touch it. Then why would you want to trap even more heat around your barrel by cutting off what little ventilation it has by wraping anything completely around it? Doesn't the barrel typically begin to lose accuracy as it heats up? If the gas tube heats up, then the gas inside the tube will heat up, changing it's density correct? So would that not effect cycling on some rifles that may not be perfectly tuned or are finicky?

Barrels heat up fast and cool off slowly, and I'm not convinced heat sinks do much of anything to reduce this problem. For 3-gunning I like a heavier profile barrel as I believe this will minimize the effect of heat on accuracy, at least for the duration of the stage (say 3 minutes max). I realize this is contrary to the "lighter is better" trend in recent years - I just feel better having more meat on my barrels.

Running a reasonably thick barrel (medium contour), I am not so worried about accuracy suffering; my main problem with heat is burning my support hand. In my experience, wrapping paracord around the handguard is THE BEST way to prevent this uncomfortable phenomenon. If it does slightly increase the cool down time after each stage, I am not too concerned as typical wait time between stages is about 1 hour. Oh, and if I am given the choice, I go and shoot the long-range stages (where accuracy is most needed) first, saving the hoser stages (where any accuracy degradation is less of a concern) for last.

With the above being said, I currently run a Midwest Industries SS15 handguard on my 3-gun rifle (photo below). This handguard has HUGE ventilation holes and does seem to stay cool enough that I don't need to wrap it in paracord. This is the only handguard I have felt this way about - all previous handguards have received the paracord treatment. I chose this handguard for its longer length, not for its cooling ability. If I did find it getting too hot, I would not hesitate to wrap this handguard in paracord too. Certainly I would not recommend switching to this handguard solely for cooling reasons - paracord represents an entirely adequate and much cheaper solution.

1816AR15SS15.jpg

Edited by StealthyBlagga
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All hand guards get hot, some more than others. The cooler they are when you start the longer you can shoot them before they burn you. Dont let them sit in the sun and bake, covering them with a towel can help a lot. I have been known to grab a hand full of ice from the cooler and rub mine down, wipe it off and go shoot.----------Larry

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