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bushmeat

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Looks for Match

Looks for Match (2/11)

  1. Cheeky, to your original post, I had one of the first vent-rib SLPs and it has never faltered in more than a decade of 3gun. That said, Tommy Thacker gave me some sage advice when I got it. He said: "If you want it to last, run it the way it is." No extended lifter, no hogged out loading port. For me, that meant learning a thumb/knuckle loading technique to avoid blood loss. Certainly, no load-4. Also, started shooting it with the light piston for the first thousand rounds, then moved to the heavy piston. Reliable and durable? Heck, yeah. However, I might suggest, if cost is an issue with respect to Benelli, take a look at the Franchi Affinity. Except for the recoil spring, everything else is similar. Even uses most of the same aftermarket parts.
  2. Shoot 22 precision rimfire matches with it and you will see the benefits. Some go out to 400 yards, stages are similar to PRS. Even more fun because ammo is cheap.
  3. Assuming you have a FFP scope to at least 16x, can dial your comeups, and have a good ballistic app. An accurate AR with 69SMKs will hold its own out to 850 yards IF the targets have electronic light indicators, otherwise hits can't be spotted consistently. You will have to push your ammo hard and tweak your BC beyond 600. The 69TMK is a little better bullet.
  4. Put an ARCA rail on your forend and an ARCA clamp on an Atlas for maximum versatility.
  5. I use a 2.5-10× with an offset red dot. Matches in my area mix bay and natural terrain out to 500 yards. The 10x is a definite advantage in the 100-500 yard situations. In bay shooting, I turn down to 2.5x and use it for plate rack, head shots or targets covered by no-shoots, red dot for hosing. Works.
  6. Soaking in CLR overnight would have turned that crud to mud, easily scrubbed off.
  7. My experience with pencil profile 18" is that it's whippy and using a brake with top ports made my shots string vertically. 3"× .75" @ 100 yards would be a typical group. Switched to a Miculek and easily MOA. I can't tell there's an accuracy difference between my standard profile barrels in 5.56 or Wylde chambers.
  8. That "donut of buildup" will, at some point be dislodged, and could cause a partial obstruction and baffle strike. Soaking in CLR for an hour turns this to mud and it runs off with a few blasts of brakecleaner. Instead of a pick, I've used a WaterPic to clean up the crannies.
  9. 2470 fps in 18" Stag Wylde chamber. Burns clean too. Got the load from Markco on here, IIRC.
  10. Hoser load: 19.5 grains AA2200, 55fmj. Light and flat. 1.5 moa @ 100 yards.
  11. I use a light load of 23 grains of 2460 under Hornady 55fmj. Easily sub-moa to 200 even with mixed cases. Beyond that, 24.5 grains under a 69SMK does well to 600.
  12. I've found it very easy to get an accurate load with 69 Sierra Matchkings. 8208 meters very well and you should be able to get 2750+ with anywhere from 23.6 gr and up. However, I've seen lot variations with 8208, so start low and work up. Midway, Midsouth, Grafs and Powder Valley for the match bullets.
  13. To the OP, I've used a Vortex PST SFP 2.5-10x44 with a FF3 on a 45degree mount. The FF3 comes into play up close to 40 yards. Would use 2.5x for shots to 100 and 10x for anything over that. IMO, FFP is unnecessary in 3gun and the reticle is useless in the lower range. I just make a habit of checking my magnification ring.
  14. I mounted a Burris XTR 1-4 and made a raised cheekpiece out of kydex. Could be the overtravel on the stock trigger but best group I got with 124 PD handloads was 5 shots into 2.5 inches.
  15. ECN515, to your original query, I have found LC brass varies quite significantly. Since you stipulate long range ammo, I'm assuming you're loading close to max. Given that you're using 77TMKs which are pretty long, I would suggest you sort the LC brass as your mentor taught you. I have found PMC Bronze cases to be quite consistent. It is easy to get accurate loads with 8208 but it can be quirky at max pressures. The donut you mention can be fixed by chucking a TMK into a drill, putting some grinding compound on the nose and running it into your seating stem.
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