Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Discouraged


doc540

Recommended Posts

Is that a plated bullet? In your picture it is hard to tell, but there doesn't seem to be a crimp line on it??

There may be a chance, that without a crimp, the bullet is moving too soon which drops the pressure. Was there alot of un-burnt powder in the area of the squib?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just like shooting you have to have visual patience in reloading. seat what you see. You can load fast but if there aint no powder in it, you got a squib.

Mounting a small light to illuminate the cartridge right before seating the bullet should help.

Take out distractions (TV, kids, wife friends- not necessarily in that order...) and focus on reloading.

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is no guarantee against getting squibs when reloading-even your friend and experienced reloader will tell you that. It happens to the best!

This is true. I have heard some very loud proclamations about loading expertise only to see chrono kick his ass later. Sometimes it is a death jam that does the ass kicking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"From here on out when I want to shoot reloads I'll just provide the supplies, and a friend and experienced reloader will reload for me"

That's a lot of trust to put on a friend. Certainly let him/her watch you reload. Even though you sold your equipment you can use your friend's stuff and you supply the fixins. I would never forgive myself if I reloaded for a friend and they got hurt. Don't put that kind of potential hurt on a good bud. Let them show you the way. JMHO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My suggestion would have been, and you can use it in the future if you get back to re-loading, would be to set up everything for a 300-400 rnd load session. Insure the press is well lit and have a 2nd person watch the entire activity and point out any possible issues as they occur. Because of your initial statement regarding how little the squib round went down the barrel (parts still in breech) I would guess this was a NO powder fail rather than an inaccurate charge fail.

I know you probably felt a bit overwhelmed with this whole process and the feedback you obtained here but unfortunately if you not actually there to see what is going on, your making educated guesses at the probable causes based on personal experience.

Now, to make matters worse, I will tell you that I know of at least 3 squibs from 9mm WWB in our club in the past year. So yes, even the factory can get it wrong sometimes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Exactly, spray the bag, not the brass. Problem solved. I also use Lee Lube mixed with 99% Alcohol. It will not effect the powder. It's not a oil. Dries totally dry to the touch as well. It's a PITA to mix but I much prefer it. You also don't have to tumble after loading either.

Wow, am I supposed to be lubing my .45 ACP cases?! (using RCBS tungsten carbide dies) I've never ever lubed .45 ACP when reloading them... Which caliber is the "Commander" ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now, to make matters worse, I will tell you that I know of at least 3 squibs from 9mm WWB in our club in the past year. So yes, even the factory can get it wrong sometimes.

That's for sure! I was at a 3-gun match with a couple easy slug targets about 35 yards away- so I only brought a couple slugs with me on the stage- you guessed it, one misfired and I took the FTE and MIKE. So now I always carry extra of everything. I examined the shell, (A Rem reduced charge) it had a big, deep firing pin strike. (and has been the only misfire ever in any shotgun I've ever owned) So I hacksawed it in half when I got home and it was loaded with powder, which I put on the ground and lit, it burned up quickly so it must have been a bad primer.

So yeah, point is, not even factories are perfect!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've seen squibs in competition where the shooter fired a round behind the stuck bullet with no damage. I have witnessed this numerous times in CAS. I honestly do not believe that pistols are affected the same as a rifle or shotgun with a obstructed bore.

On a different note. I run carbide dies and put nufinish liquid car wax in my tumbler and let it run for about 5 minutes, then add my brass. It makes the brass slicker in the forming die and keeps the brass shiny and corrosion free longer. It also does not have any noticable build up. Just let it work its way into your media for a few minutes with no brass so you do not fill a case with liquid wax or get wet onto the case making the powder media stick to the wet spot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"From here on out when I want to shoot reloads I'll just provide the supplies, and a friend and experienced reloader will reload for me"

That's a lot of trust to put on a friend. Certainly let him/her watch you reload. Even though you sold your equipment you can use your friend's stuff and you supply the fixins. I would never forgive myself if I reloaded for a friend and they got hurt. Don't put that kind of potential hurt on a good bud. Let them show you the way. JMHO.

Thanks, that's good advice.

I'll bet that's exactly what he'll suggest: his equipment and supervision, me operating his Dillon press.

I only reloaded and shot less than 75 rounds, but I could tell they shot softer and were more accurate.

All things considered, I'm just a hobbyist match shooter and don't carry the Commander for PD.

Off the shelf ammo should suit my limited purposes, and, perhaps, make me train harder.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Place a light on the bench or above it. Stand or place your stool so that you can see in each case before placing the bullet on the case.

Check the Bellcrank cube, the little white bushing on the that fits in the powder slide. I've seen it come out a couple of times when the linkage bolt gets loose. You'll think your getting a powder drop because you see the linkage move but you don't get powder. Replace the locking nut or use lock tight on the linkage bolt.

Unique will sometimes bridge above the powder funnel, it did on me and I had inconsistent powder drops. Remove the powder funnel and polish the inside. I used Simicrome polish and a wad of Q Tips.

If someone comes in the area, stop and talk start reloading when they leave.

Main thing look in each case for powder, may take a little longer but saves a lot of grief.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've seen squibs in competition where the shooter fired a round behind the stuck bullet with no damage. I have witnessed this numerous times in CAS. I honestly do not believe that pistols are affected the same as a rifle or shotgun with a obstructed bore.

That may be true of the handguns and gnat-fart loads used in CAS, due to the cylinder gap.

But there's no doubt in my mind that a squib in any common caliber used in USPSA, through a semi-auto, would pretty much trash the gun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've seen squibs in competition where the shooter fired a round behind the stuck bullet with no damage. I have witnessed this numerous times in CAS. I honestly do not believe that pistols are affected the same as a rifle or shotgun with a obstructed bore.

That may be true of the handguns and gnat-fart loads used in CAS, due to the cylinder gap.

But there's no doubt in my mind that a squib in any common caliber used in USPSA, through a semi-auto, would pretty much trash the gun.

I would go so far as to say that it would be considerably worse than a double charge. Sure wouldnt try it myself...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really do appreciate all the good advice and everyone's effort to help a new loader.

The Dillon system worked flawlessly. I didn't.

I sold the whole kit and kaboodle this morning within 10 minutes of the ad appearing locally.

From here on out when I want to shoot reloads I'll just provide the supplies, and a friend and experienced reloader will reload for me.

I'm very sorry to hear that....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've seen squibs in competition where the shooter fired a round behind the stuck bullet with no damage. I have witnessed this numerous times in CAS. I honestly do not believe that pistols are affected the same as a rifle or shotgun with a obstructed bore.

That may be true of the handguns and gnat-fart loads used in CAS, due to the cylinder gap.

But there's no doubt in my mind that a squib in any common caliber used in USPSA, through a semi-auto, would pretty much trash the gun.

Amen! I'v seen two very nice Caspians trashed completely, unsalvagable, by squibs....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The older I get the more quickly I own my limitations, deal with them, and move one.

I asked $600 for the complete package and could've sold it four times today.

Now I'll renew my relationship with my Commander's front sight. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Added the post below and then realized I should have read the last few posts more carefully. I see that you sold the press. Sorry to hear that. But I'll leave my post intact for future reference if anyone stumbles in here with the same issue.....

Doc, here are some pictures of what I rigged up on my 550 that may help you out, at least give you some ideas about lighting and seeing into the cases. I'm not familiar with the SDB setup, so you may have to do something different, but at least you can see what others are doing.

I've rigged this up so I can see the case at the seating station every single time. I won't put a bullet on the case unless I visually check to make sure there is powder in the case.

The light in the picture is a mini mag light. The light wasn't very bright, and the battery didn't last long. I had to put a little layer of duct tape around the end to make it snug in the whole. The benefit of that was it also held the light firmly enough that when you twisted the light to turn it on/off, it stayed in place. I've recently switched over to an LED light I found at a gun show. It was $5, and it's BRIGHT. Plus, it has a clip on the side, I guess for when you put it in your pocket that is perfect to prevent it from falling through the hole. Don't have recent picture of that one. I can post later.

DSC02977.jpg

The mirror was purchased I think either at WalMart or Advanced Auto Parts, under $10. Found some zip ties and it attaches easily to the strong mount. The mirror is one of those telescoping ones with a dual joint, so you can bend and move it in any direction to get the perfect angle.

DSC02978.jpg

As you can see, this is my view while reloading. I can focus directly on the inside of the case without moving from my reloading position. I can watch every case and see how much powder is in the case. It definitely provides a feeling of security. ** Disclaimer: I still make sure before every session, I measure my powder drops and ensure that I am dropping the correct charge that I am looking for. The mirror is just to make sure I didn't brain fart and not drop powder in the case. Could also be used to check for a double charge, but I'm loading N320 now, and if you double charge a 9mm, you'll have powder every where and you really won't need the light and mirror....just a dustpan. :rolleyes:

DSC02976.jpg

Edited by CZinSC
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't be discouraged. But I am going to tell you the truth about reloading. And it's counter what you are thinking now. Your thinking the slower you go, the more you measure, the more you check and recheck the safer you are. The opposite is true. You have a very safe press. It's your interaction with the press that caused the problem. It's far more important to get in a rhythm. Far more important to let the machine do what it was designed to do. As soon as you start checking powder drop, OAL, etc your introducing the possibility of you making a mistake. The machine will not make a squib. It was you putting the case back in the wrong station or forgetting to recharge the case after measuring the powder drop. Don't ever take more then one case out of the press at one time. NEVER EVER leave powder in your powder pan (that way you know it's a problem if you see powder in the pan when you are loading). Only check Powder drop once every 100 rds at the most. I don't even check that often. Check OAL on a discharged case not a case from the shell plate. Start the session with 10 drops in a clean case with a upsidedown primer. Notice the height of the powder. Weight the 10th charge and make sure it's right (dump the others with out weighting). Then start loading and weight the next case you drop powder (be sure to tap the junk out of it after sizing and priming). It should be within .1gr. After that just load and only stop when you hear the buzzer. Dump the load bin every 100 rds after doing your powder check (not before).

Btw, Unique meter poorly. You might need to accept .2 gr variance. Don't worry about it. Just don't load max loads. It will vary more the more you stop the process/routine. It metered to .1 gr on my 550 if I always used the machine the same every time. The more you stop, the worse it will appear to meter.

Mods, I think this needs to be a sticky or a "Must Read" for all beginner reloaders.

I know it would have saved me a lot of grief, and I might still be reloading.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 so does this mean your gonna get back into reloading? You sjould give it a try again, maybe a different press...

If I reload again it'll be in my FFL's shop using his press and under his watchful eye.

But that "measure ten and then let the press do its job" is the best advice I've heard yet.

Overthinking, over-checking, and interrupting the system is what bit me in the butt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...