A38337

Bought a Delta Elite in 1990. Still have it. Used to shoot it a lot. My SVI limited gun was originally a 10mm. After the PF dropped, I had a .40 barrel fitted to it. I would use 10mm to shoot competition with due to brass cost/availability, and problems with .40 cases getting into your supply of 10mm cases and causing problems when reloading. If you hot load 10mm, you need to use the appropriate springs, but you will still beat up the gun if it's a 1911/2011.

I owned a SCG. Nickled receiver and blued slide. Early 2000s production. Very cool rollmark and cool name for the model. Very nice looking gun. Lots of problems, though. Lots of very sharp edges. Series 80 means the bomar is mounted more rearward than I cared for. The slight increase in sight radius was offset by problems with holster fit and the sharp corners of the bomar blade had more opportunities than I liked to tear things up. Fit of the beavertail was very good. It lacked a pad on the bottom, though, so I problems with not fully engaging the grip safety (no such problems with my multiple other 1911s). The extractor was way, way, way too loose. Had to tune that myself. Nickled receiver meant the only way for me to improve grip on the slippery frontstrap was skateboard tape. The front strap was not high-cut. Hated that about it. Trigger was nothing to write home about. Test target was OK but not great. The fit of the barrel bushing to the slide and the barrel, and the fit of the slide to frame was as loose as some of the 40+ yr old GI guns that I handled when I was in the Marines (K-Bay in 93/94). The S&A magwell was merely slid onto the gun. It was NOT fitted to the gun. The barrel link pin was not staked correctly and it fell out on field stripping it. The dovetail joint of the ambi safety wasn't fitted corretly (the gap on the female side was excessive), so no amount of effort on my part would ever provide a reliable fit, unless I wanted to buy and fit a new one. The halves of the safety were always separating and then when manipulating the RH side of the safety, the left-wards pressure would made the LH side of the ambi bind against the receiver. All in all, I was tremedously disappointed in this gun and sold it at a loss, but good riddance to it. It would have cost so much more to make all the problems right. I've had other Colts that I've been happy with, just not this one.

I LOVE my SIRT G17. Been using it about 2 yrs. So much better than Airsoft or anything else out there. SIRT makes dry fire rewarding, effective, and fun. I also use it to train new shooters, to do force on force, to demonstrate techniques, etc. It has helped me develop my skills and saved me a lot of ammo. This has more than paid for the SIRT. I use my SIRT to do drills from various books (Anderson, Kirch, Seeklander), the drills on Burkett's website, and I integrate it into my live fire routine (shoot the drill live, then with the SIRT several times, and then live again). My IDPA classifier went from 101-ish to 83-ish after a month training with the SIRT.

Yep

Noveske 18" lightweight. It's 32 oz, but it's not skinny. No problems with the barrel heating up. It delivers just under/just over 1moa with ball ammo, depending on the brand. But I'm only using a 4x scope to shoot these groups, so not doubt it would do better with more magnification.

Another vote for the ZD. Have had mine for about 6 months. No problems with the dot being too dim.

The Shaw barrel is working well for Jesse and Kalani. Very well indeed. Definitely accurate enough to place in the top 10 at major matches, repeatedly. What more do you need to know? Don't worry about it, just shoot it.

Hope FNH picks him up. That would be a win all around. Go Dave!

Very, very nice. Be sure to spend the time to make sure your mags and ammo work 100%. 9mm in a 1911/2011 can be problematic (I say that having loaded for 9mm major for several years). Which holster are you going to use for it?

http://www.sportoptics.com/meopta-meostar-528210.aspx

Slight thread drift . . . something else to consider ref buying vs reloading. Add up the costs of shooting a major match. Add to that the cost of shooting factory rifle ammo, vice shooting reloads. Now, what does it cost you in time, frustration, score, etc when those reloaded rifle rounds don't work for you? Reloaded rifle ammo has caused a lot of problems. Consider using reloads for practice and local matches, and factory loads for major matches. Excepting of course, those who have a track record of reloading rifle ammo that works 100%.

Glad to help, JD. Just paying it forward for help I received from many others here!

Larue mounts are among the best. Consider their SPR or SPR-E mount. AFAIK, both can be had in the 1.5" height, or the 1.93" height if that is what you prefer. Larue offers a combo package of a mount and a ZD. Also check with Sportoptics.com, they have a very good price on the ZD.

Bought mine from Sportoptics.com

The TR24 is a good scope. I have both it and a ZD on hand right now (the TR is a loaner to me from a friend). I like the holdover capabilty and the illumination of the ZD. To each their own. As you said, each has its drawbacks!

Tell him to take a look (here in these forums and elsewhere on the 'net) at the Burris Tac 30 and the Burris MTAC. They are 1x - 4x optics with BDCs applicable to his goal. The Leupold CQ/T with the CMR-2 reticle and the Leupold MR/T with the CMR-2 reticle might also work. However, the former is 1-3x and the latter is 1.5 - 5x (or more accurately, 1.5 - 4.5x). Just remember that the marks in any BDC need to be confirmed by shooting the optic at those distances with your rifle and ammo. BDCs can often be off a little, or a lot. You have to test it to find out for yourself.

Hello FDVi, There was recently another thread on the ZD that stating the 1st arrow is 4.58 moa low, the second is 7.98 moa, and the 3rd is 12.11 moa. This is, I believe, from the center of the dot. The dot is 2 moa diameter. The arrows are 1.9 moa tall. The horizontal lines are 9 moa wide (if they are the same as the K-dot reticle). The gaps on the right and left of the dot are 2 moa wide. The instructions that came with my ZD provide the below values for the dot and arrrows, when used on 4x 5.56Nato 7.62x39 186-223 Rem Dot 100m 100m 100m 1st arrow 300m 220m 300m 2d arrow 400m 290m 370m 3rd arrow 500m 360m 480m I am not sure what their underlying data was, but my KAC ballistic software tells me that the M855 cartridge (62 grn bullet with a BC of .151) when fired out of a 14.5" barrel will be travelling 2900 fps (883.9 mps) at the muzzle. This is with standard atmoshperic conditions of 59 degrees F, barometric pressure of 29.92 In/HG, at sea level. Your friend should obtain and read up on ballistics, specifically, "external ballistics". There is much more to it that I can explain here or that I even know (I am just a layman). The Sierra Bullets loading manual (for rifle) has some info on external ballistics, and there are no doublt all kinds of resources on the internet for learning about this. Same thing for ballistics software. The Strelok app for iphone and android has the ZD reticle in it, and makes this very easy (I just started using it and have yet to confirm how good it works in reality). Knowing the velocity and BC of the bullet is important as knowing the weight. And of course, you'll want to confirm your projections by actually shooting. Hope that helps.

JD - get a chrono. It's worth it. Buy, beg, borrow, or steal one. No fun guessing velocities, and the reality rarely coincides with book data. For one thing, the book data is usually based using barrels much, much longer than your 6920 has.

Recently acquired a Meopta ZD, in no small part based on the comments in this and similar threads. We haven't had a lot of bright days here recently, but the dot is very, very bright. Definitely daylight visible. I own several aimpoints for reference.

Fasttarget, be sure to let us know how the ZD works for you. (I just ordered one from the same vendor, after much research)

KFN, Good plan to go with a basic model for starting out. The nice thing about the AR15 pattern rifle is the potential to modify it later on when you know more of what you want. There are many good entry level models that are not junk. I recommend BCM and S&W. Get a railed receiver so you can easily add optics when funds permit. If you want to spend a bit more, as noted above, the Larue Predatar 5.56 is a very good buy. Find someone local to you who knows AR15s and get them to show you how to shoot, handle, and maintain an AR15. There is no substitute for in-person training.

Kalani and Jesse - thanks for putting out the info on the 3G. It looks to be very well spec'd and a good buy. Do you know how much the barrel weighs? Looking forward to the pics with the handguard removed when you post them on the forum.

Kalani and Jesse - thanks for putting out the info on the 3G. It looks to be very well spec'd and a good buy. Do you know how much the barrel weighs? Looking forward to the pics with the handguard removed when you post them on the forum.

While it's not a USPSA match, Noveske made donations to the prize table for the past two USTACRA Swat Rodeos: I specifically remember XK3s and barrels.

Good points. Thanks. Stoney Point makes a gauge you can be used along with a RCBS case mic that will allow one to determine distance to the rifling.