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Dillon 1050


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I've got a 1050 that has been a great source of pride for me until yesterday. I spent 5 hours loading 300 rounds because I was continually fixing problems to keep the machine running. I was on the phone multiple times with Dillon and got everything running smooth again.

Then today, I loaded 400 rounds and noticed WST powder all over the place. The machine decided it didn't want to prime my brass anymore. The shellplate got all gummed up making it very difficult to cycle the machine. So I loosened the shellplate enough to clean under it and put it back together. Then I pulled the priming system apart, collected all the primers and put that back together too. I cleared out the machine and watched just the priming station. It wasn't consistently picking up primers, and it seemed to do this only when there were only one or two primers left in the tube. One time, the primer was lodged in the red plastic tip sideways.

So now I decide to call Dillon again and they suggest I switch tips on the primer feed tube. I do that, load a few primers and watch it. Everything is going just fine until there is just one primer left and the primer slide assembly will not pick up that primer. I took the primer magazine tube out and the last primer was sitting perfectly in the red tip at the end of the primer magazine tube.

Any ideas how to fix it? The guy at Dillon also said the primers are being manufactured with less quality control due to high demand. Have you guys noticed a decline in primer quality? I haven't had any issues with my 550 so I'm not sure what he was talking about.

Chris,

are you one of those guys who empties the machine of components at the end of a loading session? I don't see that problem, because I stop for the day when the primer system buzzer goes off -- so there's typically a handful of primers left in the tube....

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quote

I chamfer the leading edges of the "notch" in the shellplate where the cartridge is inserted (just a few strokes with a swiss cut file to knock the sharp edge off and put on a slight bevel). This was a tip i picked up from somewhere else on the forum and i've found it helps quite a bit for .223 (which is what I have loaded most of on the 1050).

quote

Yea, I did that and still have the problem. I use the powder check die so I don't worry about that so much. I keep an eye on the cases so I don't break the decapping pins. My problem seems to be that the cases set too high on their way to the shellplate. When one jams, I can pull back on the cam and the case drops a little and goes in.

Not everyone uses the machine for the same size primer all the time. Wouldn't it be better if you could finish off a full tube of primers say before you wanted to change calibers or clean the machine?

i've found that most of the issues I have re: indexing a new cartridge into the shellplate are now due to tumbling debris (usually very small bits of corncob material that don't get completely removed from clearing the brass in the squirrelcage after tumbling). cartridges would either be pushed to one side or the other or riding on top of a small granule of corncob and get wedged into the shellplate cockeyed, which would tie up the press until you manually retract the cartridge feeder and free up the case. Not sure if you're encountering any of this, but i've found it helpful to blow out the cartridge feed assembly and each of the shellplate notches once every thousand or so rounds. I've found this more of an issue with .223 as it seems harder to completely clear your polishing media after tumbling the longer rifle cases.

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O wow. After reading all this chris I am glad I didnt buy a dillon and start reloading if something like this happend Id just throw the damn thing away and thats way too much money.lol. Ill think ill just stick to buying ammo. I keep see my friends post threads like this about reloading.lol Sur ehope it all works out for you though

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if something like this happend Id just throw the damn thing away and thats way too much money.lol.

Chris, I hope you don't think I was trying to steer you in a wrong direction. The press we're talking about in this thread isn't for beginners. The press I suggested you get in much less complex, and I'm still willing to help you set everything up.

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NO I todnt think that at all bud. I am just not good with things like that, lol If I have to call tech support I just dont I just take the item back or toss it.lol. I am sorry your having an issue! I know you wouldnt steer me wrong

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I tore the machine apart and cleaned everything. It was surprisingly easy to take this machine apart.

There was quite a bit of crap on the primer slide and I found a burr on the frame that the primer slide was catching on. I filed that burr off and got everything back together. Everything is running smooth now.

One question, now that I've had the tool head off, is there any special way to adjust the tool head so it lines up better with the shellplate? When I pull the handle down, I noticed the toolhead is lining itself up with the shellplate and frame. I thought the shellplate was moving a little more side to side than I noticed before. I couldn't find anywhere in the manual where it talks about this. I just lowered the toolhead and tightened the 15/16" bolt.

Thanks for all the help guys.

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Thanks Dick, but it's a little early for champaign. Just when I thought I had everything running, it did it again. I'm still not getting the primers to drop into the slide consistently. I called Dillon today and Gary suggested I shim the primer slide stop a bit and change the 3/8" tubing on the primer slide.

Is it possible that this spring is out of adjustment? See pic below.

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Is there any published data on how long the primer slide should be? I'm wondering if I just need to mill off a few thousandths?

Does anyone know how much a new primer slide costs? I might need one.

Now that I've figured out a way to involve my Bridgeport in this project, I'm getting excited about it again. The guys at Dillon might not be too happy with me, but that'll teach them to send me a machine that doesn't work.

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Re: Aligning the tool head

I screw the toolhead bolt down until it just contacts the washer.

Then I lower the ram and let the toolhead align with the shellplate and tighten the bolt while the ram is down.

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Re: Aligning the tool head

I screw the toolhead bolt down until it just contacts the washer.

Then I lower the ram and let the toolhead align with the shellplate and tighten the bolt while the ram is down.

This tip just took a huge clunking sound out of my press thanks

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I tore the machine apart and cleaned everything. It was surprisingly easy to take this machine apart.

There was quite a bit of crap on the primer slide and I found a burr on the frame that the primer slide was catching on. I filed that burr off and got everything back together. Everything is running smooth now.

One question, now that I've had the tool head off, is there any special way to adjust the tool head so it lines up better with the shellplate? When I pull the handle down, I noticed the toolhead is lining itself up with the shellplate and frame. I thought the shellplate was moving a little more side to side than I noticed before. I couldn't find anywhere in the manual where it talks about this. I just lowered the toolhead and tightened the 15/16" bolt.

Thanks for all the help guys.

not for your problem but.... I took threaded rod and machined a hex on top, blue lock tight in the ram, then use a nut and washer to attach the tool head. Then finish the tightning with as others said. It seems to torque less that way plus easier to switch/install tool heads.

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We use the 1/4" bowed washers used on the powder bars for shims. They are about .012" thick. Typically one is sufficient. A business card is usually .008"-.010" thick.

The toolhead should have some rotational movement to it. The toolhead pins line up the shellplate and toolhead. No need to overtorque this bolt.

Edited by dillon
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