CSEMARTIN Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 (edited) I've got a 1050 that has been a great source of pride for me until yesterday. I spent 5 hours loading 300 rounds because I was continually fixing problems to keep the machine running. I was on the phone multiple times with Dillon and got everything running smooth again. Then today, I loaded 400 rounds and noticed WST powder all over the place. The machine decided it didn't want to prime my brass anymore. The shellplate got all gummed up making it very difficult to cycle the machine. So I loosened the shellplate enough to clean under it and put it back together. Then I pulled the priming system apart, collected all the primers and put that back together too. I cleared out the machine and watched just the priming station. It wasn't consistently picking up primers, and it seemed to do this only when there were only one or two primers left in the tube. One time, the primer was lodged in the red plastic tip sideways. So now I decide to call Dillon again and they suggest I switch tips on the primer feed tube. I do that, load a few primers and watch it. Everything is going just fine until there is just one primer left and the primer slide assembly will not pick up that primer. I took the primer magazine tube out and the last primer was sitting perfectly in the red tip at the end of the primer magazine tube. Any ideas how to fix it? The guy at Dillon also said the primers are being manufactured with less quality control due to high demand. Have you guys noticed a decline in primer quality? I haven't had any issues with my 550 so I'm not sure what he was talking about. Edited February 23, 2011 by CSEMARTIN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Hello: One thing to look at is that the nut that holds the primer tube is screwed on tight and that the primer tip is in the notch correctly. If the nut is lose it can cause the primer rod not to push the primer all the way down. Also check to make sure the new tip is all the way on the tube. As for the primers I have noticed that they are not always round and are different thicknesses. I am not sure if they are any worse now or not. I have never had to install a weight on the primer rod on my RL1050. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Pistolero Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 I have been having the same issues lately. Been a real pain in the butt to say the least. I glued a 230 gr bullet to the top of my fail safe rod to give it some weight. That was a while ago and has seemed to help. I do have to relace the tip on the end of the primer tube more than I'd like. There may be something to the primers themselves. I've had primers not go in and some that go in sideways. I got tired of taking the nylon piece out so I made a sping clip to put pressure on the case and provide an easy way to get the damaged primers out of there. I didn't have any jam in the slide but I still had rounds with no primers and a few primers in sideways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 The thing that's really bugging me is that red plastic tip on the primer magazine tube. I've got one on my 550 that I don't think I've ever had to change in 12 years. When I spoke with Dillon, he asked me how many rounds I had through my 1050. Sadly, I've only loaded 3K rounds or so on the 1050 (I use the 550 mostly). He told me that 3K rounds was enough to wear out one of those tips. Huh??? If that is true, why wouldn't I need to replace them more often on my other presses? Do the 1050's eat them up? Should I go by a box of them and change them as part of my routine? It seems kind of hoaky to me. I've always been able to figure out these Dillon presses with minimal effort. This one has me a little stumped right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gm iprod Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 I sometimes wonder why they still use that little pesky piece of dog droppings in something like the 1050. They should use something more like the 650 part. Brass is good. As one guy says it's only polymer when you are selling it, it is crap when it lets you down. I love my 1050's but the part that drives me insane is the primer system. I have one apart on my bench right now awaiting inspiration to sort the problems permanently. There is no reason why they could not make it from brass and it would never wear out. You must remember the only machine to have had a major improvemnent, that is complete redesign is the 650 becase it is so new. 1050, 550 and Square Dell all use the same primer magazine. They were developed from early version sof them selves. The 650 was new from the ground up. And yes the quality on some primers is well down on the usual. I have recently heard about a number of misfires and FTF and all have com eback to teh primer. Not just one brand though. I personally usually only have Federals around. I have 10K Gold Medal from when they were in the white / blue box and they are way better looking than some recently purchased std small pistols. Uneven primer anvil on plenty. Two without or insufficient compound. I personally have not had a misfire (touch wood, rub rabbits foot and throw salt over the black cat under the ladder) with these as i have caught th eoffender before it gets to the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
punxsutawn Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 I also do the 230 grain wieght on top of the primer follower and the problem went away. I use the same rod on my 550's now as I recently have had a couple of issues with that press as well. I do believe you have hit on something with the primer manufacturers as well. I don't have that issue with some of my older primer inventory, however, with new purchases, there does seem to be a difference. I haven't really taken the time to see if there is a dimensional difference, but I wouldn't doubt it at all. I do have to say that since I changed the tip on the tube, I have run about 5000 rounds through it and haven't had any problem at this point. I'm sure there is "some" wear after 3K but I cannot believe it is enough to cause failure??! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 If I have one problem I swap the plastic tip out, as more are sure to follow. I also don't crank down on the retaining collar, "snug" is a better word than "tight". I know of a few people that claim to use 650 tubs in 1050's but I haven't tried it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Hello: I would have to agree that "Snug" is a better word than tight. The primer tips I have in my 1050 have over 15,000 rounds and are still going strong in both small and large primer sizes. I do know that the primers are a little off right now since I have had a couple of Winchester small rifle primers not go bang in my open 9mm. I can also tell when my RF-100 gets more than it's usual primer problems as well Keep playing with it until you find the cause. If nothing else you will learn alot about your 1050 Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 I talked to Dillon again today, and we think it's the tip. I switch it out again until I find one that will work. I like the idea of using a brass tip. In fact, I just called Dillon when I read jmorris' post. At first, there was a lot or resistance from the gentleman I spoke with. I told him I was having all kinds of trouble with the plastics ones and asked about the brass tip that's used in the 650. He said they have looked into it in the past and Dillon decided not to do it. I pressed the issue and couldn't get him to give me a reason why. All he said is that if there was a primer detonation, they wouldn't warranty the machine. I asked if there was ever a primer detonation caused by the brass tip, and he told me that he had never heard of that happening because he didn't know of anyone using the brass tip. So....I ordered one. They're ten bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will_M Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 I'm thinking of ordering one too. I've had a bunch of trouble with my 1050 randomly stop priming. And of course I won't notice till I've loaded about twenty or so rounds..... each time it happens. I nearly set the thing on fire last time it happened. Are there any dangers to using the brass tip? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Pistolero Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 I have a 650 so I should have one. I'll try that out and post the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted February 24, 2011 Author Share Posted February 24, 2011 Are there any dangers to using the brass tip? I just sent a PM to dillon (on the forum). When I hear something, I'll post it up here. Maybe this is the fix to all of our problems? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted February 24, 2011 Author Share Posted February 24, 2011 I have a 650 so I should have one. I'll try that out and post the results. Cool....please let us know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Pistolero Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 I still had about 100 primers in the tube so I finished those with the pastic piece. Put those rounds aside and changed the primer tube. Loaded 200 rounds with the brass piece. I had one problem with the third to last primer. I wanted to empty the primer tube and the rod was not in there. When I loaded the 2nd batch of primers I reloaded it as soon as the buzzer went off. Checked the loaded rounds and wouldn't you know, the 100 with the plastic piece were fine. As were the 200 with the brass piece. I'd have to load 1k rounds with it to be sure but it does look promising. I looked at my plastic piece and it's not looking good. Only had about 4k on it. I really don't see where the brass piece can cause a primer detonation. I have had them go off in the 1050 as they are seated. Now, if someone can tell me of a fix to get the cases in the shellplate all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will_M Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Now, if someone can tell me of a fix to get the cases in the shellplate all the time. YES PLEASE. Mine will have one miss the shellplate every once in a while. It's annoying and I've broken 4 decapping pins since I was focused on the powder charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredr Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Now, if someone can tell me of a fix to get the cases in the shellplate all the time. I chamfer the leading edges of the "notch" in the shellplate where the cartridge is inserted (just a few strokes with a swiss cut file to knock the sharp edge off and put on a slight bevel). This was a tip i picked up from somewhere else on the forum and i've found it helps quite a bit for .223 (which is what I have loaded most of on the 1050). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noylj Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 I'm sorry, but why are you trying to get the last few primers to feed? Seemed to me that the instructions were pretty clear that the primer alarm will go off when there are only 3-4 primers in the tube and you are encouraged to re-fill the primer tube. The cheap plastic tip must be fully seated and it must not be torqued when the "silver nut" at the top is lightly tightened. I had a problem when the plastic tip didn't seat properly and my machine continued to feed primers perfectly, except for the 3 primers that jumped out onto the bench with every cycled. I had one that wouldn't feed a primer and I found that the guy who had it had tightened the "silver nut" too tight and the plastic tip was crushed. For myself, if I spill powder, I empty the shellplate, pull the toolhead, pull the shellplate, and remove the primer tube so I can be sure to clean EVERYTHING. That powder just gets all over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Pistolero Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 I chamfer the leading edges of the "notch" in the shellplate where the cartridge is inserted (just a few strokes with a swiss cut file to knock the sharp edge off and put on a slight bevel). This was a tip i picked up from somewhere else on the forum and i've found it helps quite a bit for .223 (which is what I have loaded most of on the 1050). Yea, I did that and still have the problem. I use the powder check die so I don't worry about that so much. I keep an eye on the cases so I don't break the decapping pins. My problem seems to be that the cases set too high on their way to the shellplate. When one jams, I can pull back on the cam and the case drops a little and goes in. Not everyone uses the machine for the same size primer all the time. Wouldn't it be better if you could finish off a full tube of primers say before you wanted to change calibers or clean the machine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted February 24, 2011 Author Share Posted February 24, 2011 I'm thinking the brass tip is the way to go. Thanks for the update Action Pistolero. I also clear out my primers when I'm done with a run so I'd also like to know that the priming system is 100%. Besides, I have had the machine goof me up even when I add more primers when the alarm goes off. There is something happening when there a few primers left. Is it a weight issue? I put a 45 case on the top of the primer rod and that has worked great with my 550 and 650. Does it need more weight with the 1050? Maybe I should glue on a 230 grain bullet. Nevertheless, I still can't believe these problems even exist in the first place given the sheer number of very experienced reloaders having these same problems and the fact that Dillon has had so many years to fix it. I'm not bashing Dillon. I love the company and their support......just saying. I also wonder why Dillon went with brass on the 650, but went with the plastic tips on the 550 and 1050. I'm also wondering how common it is to have a primer detonation with the 1050? And how serious is it when it does happen? What is the risk of injury? The impression I get is that it's just a matter of time before one goes off. The guy I spoke with at Dillon yesterday seemed concerned that using a brass tip could increase the likelihood of a primer detonation and made a point of telling me they wouldn't warranty the machine. I was also confused by that statement because the 1050 doesn't have a warranty in the first place. And then when I asked him if it had happened, he said he had never heard of it happening. So then....I thought to myself after the phone call was over, why did he mention that in the first place? Why bring up something as a concern that he had no knowledge of ever happening? I'm perplexed by this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gm iprod Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 650 came later than the 550 or the 1050. Rotary plate made the choise easy as there is always something under the end of the tube, no large movement to get to the next primer. Everything else moves a fair way back and forth to get a primer. I always empty primers from the machine if have finished for the day. Any crap that is around could find it's way into, onto or under the primer sitting at the bottom of the tube. As long as the brass tip is just above the slider, as in the gap is less than 1/2 the height of a primer it will in theory work. I have a machine in peices at work and I will reassemble the primer system this weekend as it will be set up in 223 for a while. I will replace the primer tube with 650 model and see how it all goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 All he said is that if there was a primer detonation, they wouldn't warranty the machine. If it's a year old or more they won't anyway. On the other side, in hundreds of thousands of rounds over 25 years I have never had a primer detonation while loading. I kind of like that record. I bet a tube of 100 going off would be pretty loud and might cause some damage if you are one of the guys that add weight to the plastic rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Pistolero Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Like I said, the rod was not in the primer mag for the last few primers remaining in the tube. That is probably why I had a problem. I have set off a few primers in the 1050. I had some brass that had gotten wet and when the old primer was knocked out it left a ring in the primer pocket like a crimped primer. When the case got to the priming station the primer tried to go in and BAM. This happened twice. Then I figured out if I paid attention to the feel of the press on the downstroke, I could feel a springyness to the handle. This was the swaging rod causing this. Haven't had one of those for a while. I don't believe the brass tip can cause a primer to go off. If the primer misses the hole in the primer slide it will just get moved around and then fall out of the press. The 650 blows up because all the primers are very close to one another. Once one goes off the concussion sets off a chain reaction. I just got a shipment of the new Zero bullet so I'll load a few thou and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted February 24, 2011 Author Share Posted February 24, 2011 I received word from Dillon via PM on the forum and friend that has a lot of experience with the 1050. The concern over the brass tip is there is no flexibility. When the primer slide is moving back and forth, if there is anything in the primer cup, the primer could ignite on the brass tip because it might not clear the tip. Also, if the swager is not set up right, the primer can get smushed up and go back on the slide. With the plastic tip, the tip just gets torn up. With the brass tip, the damaged primer can ignite on the brass tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Pistolero Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 I loaded 1000 rounds tonight with the brass piece. Had 3 smushed primers which I felt and caught right away. Had 1 round with a mangled primer. Seems to work better, not perfect but better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted February 25, 2011 Author Share Posted February 25, 2011 How did they get smushed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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