? Gun Safes ?

[J-Rob]

I'm currently in the market for a Gun Safe. What brand of gun safe do you guys recommend? I need one to hold 4-6 long guns and 10-15 handguns.

[hitman]

Really depends on what you have access to, how much protection you need or want and how much money you are willing to spend.

Liberty seems to be the most prevelent around here.

What I want in a good safe is double Fire protection, locking bolts all the way around the door, external hinges and a manual combonation lock.

But thats me.

Any safe beats none, just make sure to bolt it down.

[TerryO]

Get one that's 3 times bigger than what you think you need today and be sure it's got more than a 1/4" plate door. The thicker the door the better, 1 inch is a good start. Then no matter what kind of safe you get bolt it down. It's not so much that someone's going to carry it off but the way to get into a safe is throw it on it's back and use 2 crow bars to pry it open. Google, "breaking into a gun safe" and you'll find a video of two guys prying open a regular "big box store" safe in under 2 minutes.

[speculatorking]

I have a Cannon safe. Which ever safe you decide on, trust me go bigger then you think you will need.

[Tom Mainus]

http://www.ftknox.com/

This is what I have. I love it.

Tom

[MT_Bear]

Browning Sterling here - good fire protection and hinges - Got one twice as big as I needed (or at least I thought so)- Listen to the guys here - go 3-4 times more than you think you will need.

Edited March 2, 2010 by MT_Bear

[Pat Miles]

I have an old locally made safe. My son just bought a Browning. Nice safe! Has all your wants and then some. As EVERYONE has said , buy a safe 2-3 times bigger than you think you need. You will find many other items of value, both monetary and personal, to stash in it. You will have the safe for a lifetime so how many other irreplaceable items will you acquire in that lifetime.

,

Pat

[G-ManBart]

I'm currently in the market for a Gun Safe. What brand of gun safe do you guys recommend? I need one to hold 4-6 long guns and 10-15 handguns.

The search function is your friend

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=89896&view=findpost&p=1032067

[G-ManBart]

Another:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=49116&view=findpost&p=561817

[XD Niner]

The decision on which gun safe to buy is always a tough one since you must balance several issues: cost, capacity, style of lock, local availability and fire/robbery protection level.

I have a Liberty Franklin that meets my needs at a reasonable cost. The local gun shop brought it in and set it up for me as part of the base cost. One of the other local competitors wants $200 for the same service. Make sure you're comparing apples and apples to the extent possible.

Edited March 2, 2010 by XD Niner

[AR Gunner]

I've been happy with my Liberty safe. Buy the best you can afford, but whatever kind you get, make sure it has a high fire rating.

[pcmunson]

I agree with the advice to look for quality and extra capacity. Some of the newer models offer water/flood resistance. If cost is your primary concern, I've noticed that the local Costco has one for $500.00.

[Kevin Spencer]

As far as I am concerned, Fort Knox is the best.

Kevin

[MTBfarms]

Get any one that you like the looks of that has a good fire rating. Then after that one is full take the lessons learned from the first buying experience to get a better one at a lower price for your next one.

[Braxton1]

Look for features and price, then go for "name".

Most don't know this, but most of the high-end gunsafes in America are made by the same group in Utah and they just label them differently.

Sergeant & Greenleaf locks are pretty standard in the high-end. Electronic or dial is your choice. Electronic is nice for speed, especially if you go in-and-out of it several times a day. It helps your avoid the temptation to leave it unlocked when you're doing the in-and-out.

Fire protection is really just gypsum board that lines and insulates the inside. Double or quadruple layer is preferred, especially if anything more-sensitive than guns will be stored in it (valuable papers, cameras, etc.)

A lot of the other features are really "fluff".

As been said before, make sure that you bolt it down. A loaded safe that is 25 cubic feet or less in size can be moved relatively quickly by a determined burglary crew with nothing much more than a heavy-duty hand truck. The normal burglar is just gonna carry it out and bust it up later at their place. They're not going to sit there like Robert Wagner in "It Takes a Thief" and pick your lock with a stethoscope and a hand drill. They don't have time. Your alarm is blaring and they know that the cops are en route.

[jgedmond]

I too am in the market for a gun safe. I am very impressed with the Liberty warranty coverage and build quality, but the Fort Knox has better fire ratings(higher test temperature) and possibly better security features. Since I have a monitored alarm and live in a suburban area with a firehouse close by, my main concern is securing the guns from visiting grandkids and short-term fire protection. So far, I am leaning towards the Liberty Lincoln series.

[G-ManBart]

I too am in the market for a gun safe. I am very impressed with the Liberty warranty coverage and build quality, but the Fort Knox has better fire ratings(higher test temperature) and possibly better security features. Since I have a monitored alarm and live in a suburban area with a firehouse close by, my main concern is securing the guns from visiting grandkids and short-term fire protection. So far, I am leaning towards the Liberty Lincoln series.

I haven't done any extensive research on the Fort Knox safes, but keep in mind that there isn't any one standard for fire ratings. So, what seems to be a higher temperature rating from one brand may not really be any better...BTU's at a certain temp etc.

I went with a Liberty National Security 50 and really like it

[fatcat]

Get one that's 3 times bigger than what you think you need today and be sure it's got more than a 1/4" plate door. The thicker the door the better, 1 inch is a good start. Then no matter what kind of safe you get bolt it down. It's not so much that someone's going to carry it off but the way to get into a safe is throw it on it's back and use 2 crow bars to pry it open. Google, "breaking into a gun safe" and you'll find a video of two guys prying open a regular "big box store" safe in under 2 minutes.

i agree with getting a big safe and got a 48 x 24 x 72 inch box. I went with a Sturdy Safe:

http://www.sturdysafe.com/

I believe they offer a much better value than the other brands that are "marketed" more.

Whatever brand you go with, visit their site as they provide a lot of good information. Check out their videos.

[Tom S.]

I agree with the Sturdy Safe (even though I own a Browning). Their videos are very impressive.

But a safe is only part of the equation!!! Make sure it is bolted securely to the floor, and supplement it with a good and extremely loud alarm system.

[Chills1994]

I thought this was an eye opening video when I first watched it:

[Tom Mainus]

Since I have a monitored alarm and live in a suburban area with a firehouse close by, my main concern is short-term fire protection.

My day job is carpenter. We have done many fire jobs. Fire and smoke damage is the worst. My wife has standing orders if the house catches fire, DO NOT call the fire department. If I am going to remodel, we are remodeling with a backhoe and starting over. I am trusting that the fire rating on that safe lives up to what it says.

Tom

[Rivr_runnr]

I have a Champion. When shopping for it my local dealer had a much larger one in a color I didn't care for (off white)with a rotary dial instead of a keypad. He was stuck with it and made me an offer I couldn't refuse. I don't know a whole lot about the company, but am impressed with the quality of the safe.

www.championsafe.com

Triumph Series - Superior

"Simply put, the Triumph is the most protective safe in its class. The heavy 5-inch thick door boasts up to 20 massive door bolts and out exclusive Diamond Imbedded Armor-Plate. Additionally, the Triumph's thick body offers maximum security plus superior fire protection. Simply put, the Triumph is the most protective safe in its class.

FIRE AND SECURITY RATINGS

Phoenix Class III fire protection

1500° 1 1/2 hour rating

UL security rating

Lifetime warranty

LOCKING SYSTEM

BOLTWORKS MAXIMUM SECURITY DOOR

Sargent & Greenleaf ™ Grp II

Champion's Auto-Relock system

Diamond Imbedded Armor-Plate™

Four-way active boltworks--no dead bolts

Up to 20, 1 ¼" active bolts

Auto-Detent system

Roughneck™ bolt guides

5" thick composite door

Three layers of fire insulation

Internal ball-bearing hinges

24-karat gold-plated lock and 3-spoke handle

BODY

INTERIOR LOCKS

2" thick composite wall

10 Ga. outer steel wall

Up to three layers of fire insulation

High-gloss polyurethane finish

Plush velour interior

All-Pro interior

See Interior Configurations Below

Optional Standard "

[Fishin6061]

I own a newer browning because of the ability to store 7 long guns on the door. To me this gave me more bang for the buck in footprint and capacity.

[Eric Scher]

I bought a Franklin 25 by Liberty, and I regret it.

I should have bought at LEAST a 35, probably even a 50.

That's the first thing you have to understand...

If you are into guns enough to buy a safe, then you need a big safe. Get the biggest one you can afford.

Also, try to make sure that you get one that is wired for electricity, even if you don't get the light kit installed, because then you'll be able to use an electric dehumidifying rod.

getting an electronic lock is also an excellent idea. Using a dial combo is NOT fast. Don't get me wrong... It's not like reading war and peace. You'll be into your safe in less than a minute.

But I can promise you this...

The first time you close the door and run the bolts home about 0.5 seconds before you remember something else you need from the safe, you'll be glad you have an electric lock. (beep-beep-beep-beep-beep-beep-beep) and you're in.

Finally, most of the so called safes on that market are not really SAFES. They are "Residential Security Containers". Not that there is anything wrong with that if you don't need a genuine safe.

The fact is, most people are just fine with an RSC that has a good fire rating, although you want to be careful to put it on an outside wall so it wont be exposed to the highest heat of a house fire.

Having said that, if you plan to put your safe in the middle of the house, especially if you plan to put it in the basement AND in the middle of the house, and ESPECIALLY if you have seriously expensive guns, then you want a real safe.

BTW, those STURDY Safes look pretty good. But of course, everything costs money, and ultimately, a RSC that won't even resist a serious attack for 15 minutes is still better than a hardcore TL30 safe that only exists in a catalog you look at when you're sitting on the throne every morning.

Here's some good info: Safe FAQ

[Rob Boudrie]

Locks - Electronic are more convenient but pose a greater risk of lockout. Note that even the best safe guarantee will probably not cover a lockout (Google the Bane saga - he had a problem with a Canon, and they explained their obligation was to give him a new lock, not help him open his safe).

Security - Two big issues are "weight" and "wall thickness". Standard gun safes are 10 gauge; some better ones are 3/16. A few are 1/4". There is a big difference in strength, price and weight each time you go yup a notch on the weight. Both of these are more important that number of relockers; glass relockers; size of bolts; thickness of hardplate; etc.

Door - Worry more about what it takes to open the side door than the front door . If you're going to breech a box by force, the door can be one of the strongest points to attack; a side/top/bottom wall is easiest to cut through.

Rating - Don't be impress by a RSC (residential security container) rating. I think a sardine can could get this rating - but some pretty decent gun safes have it as well. "Real safes" (the kind a jewelery or check cashing store could use to meet insurance requirements) have ratings like TL30 or TL30. Amsec makes a TL30 gun safe, but it's pricey and weights a ton and a half.

Having said that, if you plan to put your safe in the middle of the house, especially if you plan to put it in the basement AND in the middle of the house, and ESPECIALLY if you have seriously expensive guns, then you want a real safe.

The firearms limitation on homeowners policies is generally for theft or mysterious disappearance. If the guns are trashed in a house fire, they are generally covered just like any other household possession. If this is the case with your policy, you may need the safe more for burgularly protection than fire protection.