GunCat

From the NSSF: An ATF proposal to require federally licensed firearms retailers to report multiple sales of rifles has been placed on hold by the White House amid stiff opposition from the firearms industry and NRA. Read the full story

If the gun is in any kind of decent shape $600 is a real bargain and a duck / turkey hunter will snap it up quickly. The SBE may not cycle well with 1 oz target loads or other “low recoil” shell, but the old standard 1 1/8 oz, 3 DE (1200 fps) loads should run all day. (BTW - Mine functions perfectly with Remington's Low Recoil 1oz slugs) If you cut the barrel you probably will not be able to have it re-threaded for the same choke tubes (lack of installation tooling available to the gunsmith trade) and will have to go with Tru-Choke style tubes

You want the left handed pad....right? Numrich has some right and left hand Comfort Tech pads in the SBE II section. The price is too $^#& high for what it is...on the other hand... if you have your gunsmith alter your stock by affixing a block inside then installing a standard grind to fit pad (Limbsaver, Kick Eez, etc) you are probably going to looking at a bill near (or over) $100 for parts and labor. Making a synthetic stock (with a through bolt) accept a aftermarket pad is doable, but takes some work.

Put a pin back through the frame (to keep the remaining piece from turning). Drill onto the broken piece, remove the pin, then pull out the broken piece (much like removing a broken screw)

+1...IIRC there are 63 or so cases (135 clays per case) on a pallet. You might contact several of the clubs in the area to organize a trailer load, or just ask to buy your targets from another club. That case price might still beat shopping at the local Wal-Mart, Bass Pro etc.

The Navidrex grips reference the NEW and OLD style. (I do remember something about Para changing the shape of the front strap at some time in the past)

They say a picture is worth a thousand words...so can anyone tell me if the Para 16-40 SE pictured below uses the “old” or “new” style grips?

Brownells has Briley tubes Do you need Invector or Invector Plus tubes for that barrel? (I don't remember which it is) I keep an Improved Cylinder and Improved Modified tube in the bag (and I rarely ever use the IM tube )

That tool looks like a lighter weight version of the Meprolight tool. I wonder if it will remove those extremely tight fitting XD sights?

Thank you. That's good to know. Just so yall know....At that barrel diameter there is plenty of room to thread a (shortened) 930 barrel for a Mossberg Accu-Choke or Remington Rem-Choke screw in choke tube. (I've had several of the shorter barrels (with the tall front sight) in my shop for tube installation, but was curious about the longer barrels)

Can one of you folks with a 28” ported gun do me a favor? Measure the outside diameter of your barrel back at the 22”-24” (somewhere behind the ports). I'd expect the measurement to be between .840” to .900” but sure like to see some real to know what style of choke tubes the barrel can take if its cut off. Thanks Steve Rose

Scott, Which glue, epoxy, etc. did you use?

This is a pad designed to fit your stock without grinding the pad or drilling new holes in the wood: LINK to Sims Pad Also - your local gunsmith should be able to install a grind-to-fit pad (custom fit to your stock). Limbsaver and Kick Eez are a couple of soft pads that are popular.

Here's a good picture heavy DIY guide: DMW EZ Loader installation

I finally got see Dylan in Nashville a couple of years ago. One more thing checked off my list. Knockin on Heaven's Door, Tangled up in Blue, and Stuck Inside Mobile are some of my current favorites...but just because they are the latest I've listened to - I like all his tunes. Here is an interesting cover of Tangled up in Blue:

Have you shot one? Read this: LINK Sorry to tell you...from the few I've handled and worked on I think the Nova and 870 have nothing to fear.

I have used this site many times to save You Tube videos: Keepvid.com

After giving it an overall clean and lube you may want to replace the O ring and the 2 other gas rings (Piston and Piston Seal), and also steel wool the magazine tube till its slick and clean (especially in the area where the psiton seals slide). The Action Spring and Follower (inside that tube inside the stock) need to be clean and lightly oiled. The 1100 needs a strong magazine spring to propel the shell out and activate the carrier latch (to let the bolt move forward). Make sure the inside of the mag tube is clean and smooth, the follower does not bind, and the magazine tube spring is strong. A new magazine tube spring often cures a lot of 1100 feeding issues. After those tips any other feeding or cycling problems should be easy to trace to a specific part problem or ammo selection.

Did you trim some length off the spring? Having about 12" (relaxed length) past the end of the mag tube is about right. This might help with fitting in that last round. But yeah...as mscott said; when it comes breaking down the gun for a complete cleaning the mag tube has to come off to remove the barrel

Threading the barrel for screw in choke tubes (and probably the same Mossberg tubes it started with) is an easy fix if you know a gunsmith with the tooling and skills to use it.

You can trim some length off the Easy Loader, this will eliminate the "thumb biting" Here is an example that has been posted on this sight before:

I don't know what a die grinder is, but would a carbide burr on a dremel do the same thing? Carbide cutter for your Dremel: CLICK HERE Be careful with this...this cutter will cut very quickly and aggressively, throwing out very small, sharp chips that can stick in your skin. Also make sure it stays tight in the chuck, Carbide is slicker than the steel bits you normally use. It can move or pull out of the chuck while cutting if your are not cautious to to stop and re-tighten periodically.

You are not going to remove the XD sights by holding the slide in a 3” or 4” Harbor Freight vise and using the brass punch you got at the hardware store. I use a good quality 6” vise with padded jaws to hold the slide (the same wood/leather jaw pads I use to hold any part that I do not want to scratch or damage). The punch is a 6” length of ½” square CRS. The end that touches the sight is kept smooth and square. The hammer is a standard 12 oz ball peen hammer. Hold the slide securely in the padded vise. If the slide twists or moves in the vise you are not holding it tight enough. Wrap a couple layers of Duct tape around the punch with only the square end is exposed (the tapes helps avoid scratching the slide). While most American dovetailed sights go in and out from the right, the factory XD sights go in from the left (Look at the bevel on the front sight dovetail to verify this) Lay the punch against the front or rear sight and hit it (hard…several times). If you can drive nails without missing and hitting your thumb or work piece you can take the XD sights out.

You might lay a piece of 1/4" square stock on each side of the sight and use a C clamp or 2 to squeeze them together (much like a small vise). If you have a small "machinist clamp" that would work also.

Scott, Would this device along with a depth micrometer yield the same results? I think I would measure near each rail in case there was any side to side variation along the slide, as opposed to measuring in the center as illustrated. (For what that bar is, you could make your own with a piece of flat stock and a few screws) SR