Jeff686

I made a couple of these graphs after reading this thread. I really like visual representation of data, and thought this would help people pick the dot size and zero distance that is best for them. As noted in the spreadsheet, I created the data for a Hornady HAP 121gr .355 bullet at 1470 fps. That's a little hot, at about 177 pf. I'll make a new one, if requested, using a different bullet and/or velocity. I need the BC, bullet weight, and velocity. I had to guess at the dot height above the barrel, so if you want a custom graph, measure that too. Also, this chart assumes that you zero at the CENTER of the dot. I can adjust that too, but haven't bothered yet. Can everyone understand the graph's meaning, or should I provide further description?

I'll bet the ELT simply didn't activate. ELTs are basically junk. I was thinking about this last night walking the dog. I can count the # of times on one hand - and still have several fingers available - the # of times I've heard that an aircraft has gone missing and the ELT actually activated. The track record of the ELT is so outlandishly poor, it's incredible that the Fossett accident didn't at least initiate some type of inquiry into the phenomenon. Funny, because at the Sun-n-Fun there were always running around trying to find the plane with the false-positive ELT that was transmitting.... For outsiders: Sun-n-Fun is 2nd largest fly-in, almost as big as Oshkosh.

Remember that dB are on a base 10 log scale. 3 dB is actuall 2x (double) the sound pressure level Going from 30dB to 33dB protection, you've actually doubled the blocked sound. As stated above in a previous post, when you double plug, you don't add the dB, but you have doubled your protection!

Call Dillon while sitting infront of the press. They'll get you fixed up...

I don't understand how that will make a difference. Once the handle starts down, the rod, spring and wingnut gizmo are just hanging there. How can it affect anything that's happening at the bottom of the stroke. There is no real return spring on the SDB for the powder bar. The action of the press on the rod pulls the levers and moves the powder bar back home to pickup another charge. A full stroke is necessary to get the powder bar to pickup more powder (preventing a short-stroke double-charge). Also, Homie is right. The powder charge is also case activated, with a safety interlock. If there is no case in the shell plate, the powder bar does not make a complete cycle, activating the interlock release and letting the thing cycle. If I can summarize: The case moves the bar to drop the charge. The rod moves the bar back to pickup the next charge. Without a case, or with an extra long rod, the thing gets stuck in limbo (which is the correct and safe result). I suggest you test it's operation through several cycles with cases in the shell plate.

I called Hornady about which shell plate to get. They said get #8 (which is for 38 super). I had a long conversation with them that it is different from 38 super, but yes they use the same shell plate. Anyone loading 38 super comp on thier Hornady LNL AP?

Don't make things more complicated than necessary. After it is empty and dry, just blow it out with an air hose.

Tell them to go out and get the shittiest job they can find, let their boss crap on them for a few months. Then tell them if they go to school and get an education they won't have to take crap from anyone.

Same reason gas prices go up fast, and down slow. "Opportunity Cost" dictates that prices increase to match the true market value of the raw materials they are made from, regardless of the original purchase price of those materials. Inventory represents a material investment, just like owning gold or stocks. If you own it, and someone is willing to pay for it, why charge less? "Cost of Sales" dictates that prices don't decrease below the original value of the investment in raw materials plus the cost of financing the inventory. If there is enough demand to keep inventory velocities reasonable, prices fall slowly. Don't sell for a loss if at all possible.

How many different voltage settings does it have?

Yea, 38 super!! Oh, and that price on gunbroker ain't no bargain.

Amway?

Time for a 2nd opinion. Try a specialist.

Some ideas: Write CZ directly. They might be willing to send you springs. Shipping international is not rocket science. http://www.czub.cz/ Post a request on the IPSC forums, asking for someone to buy you a few springs in Europe, and ship them to you. http://ipsc.invisionzone.com/ Ask Angus Hobdell. He might be able to special order some, or carry some back from a trip to Europe.

The primer cup/plunger is held on the slider bar with a set screw. Mine sometimes loosens and the primer cup/plunger gets a little too long. Loosen the screw, and be sure the cup and spring is completely compressed. It will hurt your thumb, so use a small piece of wood or other tool. Tighten the screw while holding everything tightly.

Great match Chuck!! Congrats. Thanks again for the blast shield. I might have been up there closer to the top, if I hadn't almost zereod the Patriot Games stage. But, even with that, I didn't have a chance of winning. I did beat y'all on that doughnut stage, however! MMMMmmmm Doughnuts!! What's a 187? Armed robery or bathroom break?

Does the patina survive resizing and tumbling?

I like to pick my nose while reloading.

I've been using Armscor 38 Super Rimless for a while in my Gold Team. The Armscor works great in my gun, and I have not had any primer or brass related gun problems. I've had a problem with the brass and my Dillon SDB, so I have to switch to something else. I was going to order some Starline 38 Super Comp, but was also considering 38 TJ. I know that Henning sells the TJ. That not withstanding... what's the difference? I have no gun related problems with the Armscor Super Comp brass. What possible issues does the TJ solve? Why should I consider it, instead of plain old SuperComp?

Thanks for the advice. I have tested the set up and all seems fine but haven't shot it yet. Did you loctite it before actually live testing or do you do this after? I didn't want to loctite until I had live fired to be absolutely sure it will not be an issue. Locktight it after shooting. Take care not to set it too close, as you can actually move the muzzle before the bullet exits the barrel if you bottom out too hard when shooting fast. Give yourself some breathing room in other words. I set mine correctly in January, once I learned about the hammer rubbing. I did not loctite, since I planned to 'test fire' it for a few weeks. I ran over 2000 rounds through it and just started having misfires last week, but only on some of the higher primers. When I realized why, I readjusted and used some loctite. My point is, you can shoot it for a while without loctite, just don't forget all together.

Make sure the overtravel is not too agressive (too little). If you hold the trigger down and move the hammer, it should feel smooth and not rub. If you can feel the hammer rubbing against the sear, the overtravel is too little. If the hammer is rubbing, you WILL have ignition problems. I learned the hard way. Don't forget to loctite it!!

What we really need is a die that will resize the standard 9mm case to be straight walled (like 38 super), and a chamber to match it. I'm not sure how much taper there is in a 9mm, but I guess if you open up the mouth end, it wouldn't take .355/6 bullets anymore. It doesn't seem realistic to full-length resize 9mm brass with a 38 super die. Plus, it would be really hard to make a matching chamber without starting from a blank.

I'm going to TCGC for Sunday's match. Let me know if you need to borrow anything.

Take cleaning supplies. Some cats get car sick, and puke. I don't know about cats, but my dogs STINK when on road trips. They get upset and nervous. Nothing like a mix of wet-dog and doggie-breath for 600 miles. Take some air freshener. We brought our dog from Orlando to Boise via airplane as checked luggage. We gave him food, and extra water, plus a favorite blanket. There was a plane change in Denver. My wife was watching the luggage unload, hoping to get a glimps of her precious baby. She saw him! The crate fell off the conveyor belt, the door popped open, and the dog ran for it!!! He headed straight away from the terminal and under a couple of nearby planes moving on the taxiway. She tried to go out the emergency exit, and set of the alarm. It took a little while for her to convince security that she wasn't a nutcase. Twenty minutes later, a couple of baggage handlers came around the corner with the dog. They loaded him back in the crate and sent him on his way. Luckily, he was wearing a leash, or they would never have caught him! I always tell people to put a leash on their dog in the crate, and to tie-wrap the door shut.

Wow! That's a lot. Might I suggest 3 guns? For tinkering, buy a 10/22. They are cheap and fun. You can spend A LOT of time tinkering with it, and there are an unbelievable number of aftermarket parts. Go to rimfire.com. For you and your wife's personal protection, get a revolver. A nice medium frame 38 special or 357 magnum. They are easy to shoot and pleasant to practice with for all size people. Most importantly, when in extreme stress, you can still operate it. It's got no safeties, slide releases, magazines, or interlocks. Just pull the trigger. For USPSA competition, the CZ and EAA are both great choices. If you plan to shoot in production division, buy the CZ SP01 or the Witness Elite Stock in 9mm. If you plan to shoot in the Limited division, get the Witness Elite Match or Witness Elite Limited in 40cal.