Jeff686

Oh, by the way, it's Tanfoglio, not Tangfolio Tan-Fog-lee-O If you own one, you gotta say it right

V8 38 Super Comp 8.6 Longshot 1.25AOL Armscor brass Can't recall crimp Wolff 10lb spring 14lb hammer spring Ranier plated 124gr RN Winchester Pistol primers 168pf I'm switching to Monana Gold 121 IFP. I used them before with SP1 in this gun, and liked them. There is a lot of variation in the Ranier's and I think I was getting occassional keyholeing with a tight crimp. It went away after loosening the crimp, but I still liked the MG better. Henning's load info: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...114&hl=7625

Silver and gold! I'll have to wait until I get that gold tooth to match.

I just got an aimpoint to try out (thanks Tom!) I had to go to the fastner store to get the correct size screws. While there, I saw some button head screws in a nice polished stainless, and bought them too. Since the aimpoint mount is single sided, I used the button head screws to fill the holes on the right side. Now I got a little bling:

I'm wondering if you have tested it at the range. Our range is gravel and dirt, and those wheels might have trouble with uneven terrain. Maybe you plan to replace them.

What makes a 'real' roll pin punch different from a 'unreal' punch?

I dissassembled my Gold Team over the weekend for cleaning. This was the first time since I got it that I did a 'deep clean'. I watched Henning's vidoes several times, then went to work. Everything came apart without trouble, except the extractor pin. I had to really wack that thing hard to get it to move. So hard, I was worried I was doing it wrong. It looks so much easier in Henning's video. Luckily, I didn't totally remove it, just punched it out enough to get the extractor out. Getting it back in was even more difficult. I was afraid to wack it too hard, but also had to worry that the extractor was lined up. I ended up using an allen wrench as a 'blind pin' and things finally went back together with a really hard wack. Should they be this tight? Maybe I'll order a replacement with my next purchase from Henning. I thought about punching it all the way out, then checking for burrs or flaws in the pin and hole. Maybe a little polishing would help.

I had the exact same problem on the exact same gun!! Wow, what a coincidence. I broke the link after several years. Had my local (very good reputation) gun smith install a new link. I don't remember the cost. A month later it broke again. I took it back, and he said "Wow, I really screwed up on this!" He measured it about 10 times, scratched his head, cussed at himself a couple of times, then ordered some special size links. I didn't know they came in different sizes. A week later he returned the gun, no additional charge. Oh, by the way, I love my Norinco! $450 used, and I shot it as-is for several years. Tripp trigger job and chrome, and it lasted for several more years. New link, and it's been going strong since. It even looks good with the matte and brushed chrome. Made B class with it last year. The only thing I'm disappointed about is the front sight. I wish I had the slide dove-tailed before the chrome job.

How about using one of the new Optima style sights (jpoint, firepoint, doctor, etc.) There are about five different manufacturers. Oh, and if you really need to go light, buy an open glock!!

What he means is: 686 = 6 shot 686+ = 7 shot 686 can be made into a 686+

If you set your powder measure and forget about it (and hope it doesn't change on it's own) then I agree that the scale doesn't matter much. However, if you change it, returning to the same setting is almost impossible. My loads, on average, change by 14fps within the margin of error of 0.1 gr in my electronic scale. I do agree that electronic is the way to go. I hate my balance beam scale, but am to cheap to buy another electronic scale. All I'm really saying is that if I bought another electronic scale, it would have an accuracy of at least .05 grains (.01 preffered.) Of course, I might be a bit anal about things. I like to plot the distribution of bullet weights and powder charge throws and calculate the confidence intervals of making my target power factor.

Just some thoughts... Funnel - what for? Bullet puller - I never use one, mostly because they break, and the recurrring cost of replacement is much more than the cost of the lost components. Scale - 0.1 accuracy is not enough for IPSC. There is a significant difference between 5.46 and 5.54 (both read 5.5)! I use a cheep balance beam scale instead of my electric one. Bullet tray - OK because it's a special size. However, don't waste the money on the miscelanous Dillon plastic bins. Buy them at Lowes or Home Depot. They are the exact same thing, and cost a lot less. Oh, and start without the case feeder! Run your first 1000 rounds manually. You'll still reload quickly, but will also learn a lot. Once you're bored with that, then add the case feeder.

Oh, one thing I didn't do yet, is run the ammo from the match over my chrony. Maybe I should have sampled the EXACT batch of ammo I made, just to be sure. I'll be interested to see my chrony results from the left-over match ammo.

I'm gunning for you!!!

I shot the chrony stage at Area 1 today. I made major by the skin of my teeth, 165.3 pf. Here's what I did in prep work: Using 124 Ranier RN: sampled 18 times, with an average of 123.4gr Using Longshot: 8.4 gr of longshot gave me an average of 1386.4 fps (5 samples) Average power factor was: 171 Used a Shooters Chrony to measure speed Tests done around 5/2008 Loaded for match with 8.5gr of longshot (same lot number but different purchase date from testing, I think) Used bullets from same batch/box as above. At the match: Used an Ohler chrony, usual procedure. The 3-shots averaged 1343 fps and the bullet weighed 123.1, for a PF of 165.3. Could my chrony be off that much?

My biggest problem has been flipped primers. Once I figured out the source of the problem, it is easy to fix. In case you ever experience the same thing: The primer slider moves under the shell plate on the up stroke. The primer plunger is spring loaded and held in the slider by a set screw. Over time and use, the plunger can get taller, working it's way against the set screw. If the plunger is too tall, it will catch on the underside of the shell plate before it is fully underneath the priming hole. It just barely catches, enough to 'twang' the spring and flip the primer upsidedown or sideways. The solution: remove the primer assembly, loosen the set screw on the plunger (thing that pushes the primers into the shell), press the holder down hard, and then tighten the screw. Other than that, everything that has gone wrong for me has been fixed by replacing the plastic parts included in the 'spare parts' kit. Buy that, and you'll be set.

Does he have any problem with the paint comming off the platic parts. Mine has a stainless basin, but the basin is held in place by a plastic bezel. The Ed's Red I tried started to remove some of the paint from the plastic. Would diesel or kerosene do the same?

This sounds like an old boy scout trick. Coat the bottom of your pans with a think application of dish soap before cooking over the open fire, then the black soot wipes off. The slide glide acts as a barrier. I have used brake cleaner and action blaster a lot (but not with slide-glide all over). They do a nice job. However, I like the ultrasonic. Every piece and part sparkles! Of course, now I have to figure out how to reassemble the lower (first time for me)!

Actually, a $59 cleaner. Oh, and it was the fastest deep-clean I've ever done!!! I put them straight into the cleaner. After about 5 minutes, I hit the persistent parts with a tooth brush, and ran the pipe cleaner through the holes, then ran in the cleaner for 5 more minutes. Jeff, I went to Harbor Freight and could only find the 159 dollar model. I'm thinking about getting one. Does your model have a heater? Are you using the cleaner that harbor freight sells? Here's the model I bought, but I'm sure I only paid $59 here in Oregon. Our Harbor Freight doesn't seem to have an organized display for these smaller items. I had to search the store several times, find one model in the front, one model in the back, and finally, the one I was looking for above my head behind a display sign. Don't assume they keep all the ultrasonic stuff together in one place. Yes, it has a heater. It gets quite warm, almost too hot to reach into. The only think I don't like about it is the built in timer. It is limited to a max of 480 seconds! I have to re-start it several times to get my desired cleaning time. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=95563

Umm, you sure about that? 9mm and 38super is the #5 shell plate, 38supercomp is the #3 shell plate.

Hey Chuck, is there a super-squad? If so, I'd like to watch. What squad number are they? Thanks! Jeff

Actually, a $59 cleaner. Oh, and it was the fastest deep-clean I've ever done!!! I put them straight into the cleaner. After about 5 minutes, I hit the persistent parts with a tooth brush, and ran the pipe cleaner through the holes, then ran in the cleaner for 5 more minutes.

Yea, seriously, that's another point. For what purpose are you going to use the 38super? Since 9mm can go 'major' in open class, maybe consider it instead.

A long time ago I worked for a physics department at a midwest university that had a pretty good sized ultrasonic cleaner in one of the labs. Since they would of gotten pissed if I used it to clean my bicycle chain I used to fill the cleaner with water and then put a glass beaker with the chain and some solvent in it. The cleaning energy was coupled in pretty well and did a real good job cleaning the chain without scumming up the cleaner tank. A glass or metal sub-container should work pretty well. Plastic not so well. Later, Chuck Awesome idea, Chuck. I just had a real rough time emptying the Ed's Red from the cleaner. I learned that it will take the paint off the plastic parts of the cleaner, so I had to empty it without splashing on the rim. I ended up using a turkey syringe, then tossing it afterward.

I bought the Chicago brand from Harbor Freight for $59. It does not have a removable resevour, so I can't quickly switch fluids. However, it is plenty big enough to fit my comp'd barrel, with lots of room to spare. I heard someone found a cleaning solution (for dental stuff) that is both a cleaner and lubricator, no need for a double bath. I agree with all the comments above. I had hoped to drop all the parts in it, and just let it run. However, I found that a little work with a toothbrush mid-way through really did wonders. A pipe cleaner through the extractor and firing pin holes worked well. I had a lot of fear of trapped H2O in the nooks and crannies, so I dissassembled the parts before cleaning, and put them in the oven at 200deg for an hour or so. They are now bone dry, and waiting for lube and reassembly.