Jeff686

Well, I suggest you use your big stick as a template for fixing the problem. Measure the feed lips, and compare. Load 'em up and look at the bullet height and angle, and compare. Maybe even swap the follower and see if the problem moves. All that not withstanding, it seems to me that supercomp was invented for a reason. If it makes tuning your mags easier and more reliable, why not... My old junky Norinco 1911 didn't like SWC. People used to tell me that a good gunsmith can fix it. My fix.... use round nose bullets!

I think I recently saw something from the NRA about range development seminars. I think they have 4 a year. Give them a call if you're a member.

Yea, I just sent my old 80's vintage SDB to Dillon for a repair. They did their ususal rework and it came back looking almost new. One major difference between the new models and the older (I have both) is the powder measuring system. The old system was case activated, with a couple of springs wrapped around the powder measure bar for return force. The newer style uses a rod style affair in a similar fashion. I believe that the rod does two things, first prevents a 'double charge' since it acts as a safety interlock, second is it gives a more positive and consistent return of the powder bar to it's resting place. I've used both systems, side by side, for a couple of years. Both work fine most of the time. The only trouble I had with the older spring system was with SP01 powder. It was fine enough to work it's way into the power bar mechanism and cause increased friction. After a while, the springs were not able to overcome the friciton, and the bar would stick. I've used several other powders without problems (Clays, Titegroup, 7625, longshot). I would not hesitate to purchase either model. I don't know anything about the primer problem listed above, but I do switch primer feed parts between my two presses without problem, so if you did have the problem, you could get a few new parts and fix it.

I saw a tip from one of the big GMs. I think it was Taran, but not sure. They said to retrieve the gun with the weak hand. Place the gun into the strong hand. Slide the weak hand into place. It sounds like it takes a little longer. It also sounds like it guarantees a good grip. It might depend on how soon after retrieving the gun you have to fire it. The above method might be just as fast if you are still moving to a port or box. The Burkett method might be faster for a standing grab-n-shoot. Edit: Sorry, the above is almost a duplicate of Grahams post. Didn't mean to take up bandwidth. ------------------- On my limited gun, I had to increase the magazine release spring strength until it would rest on the button without dropping the magazine. It's an easy thing to test at home. I think Wolff sells multi-packs with a range of spring strengths. ------------------- You could add a sidewinder or other slide racker. It would prop the gun up. If you're shooting open with a C-more, try aerowings, or the battery cover kick-stand thingy. http://www.henningshootsguns.com/shop/mounts.html -------------------

If that's all you do is shoot, and have time to chrono each batch ammo in the same weather as the match, maybe you can run 167pf. I thought I had at least 170pf, but chrono'd at Area 1 at 165.3. Luckily, I had a change of underware with me.

I suggest you learn to use pivot tables and charts. Once you understand the data layout in record format, it is easy to make all sorts of different graphs. The graphs are dynamic, and can be changed on the fly by dragging labels from one axis to the other, or to the legend. You can filter and sort data easily, and quickly change the chart type (line, bar, pie) with a few clicks. The best thing about pivot charts is the ability to play "what if I did this". They are actually a lot of fun. I've attached a sample of some of my reloading data in pivot form. Play around with it by dragging things to different locations and changing settings and options. It's pretty powerful. 38_armscor_longshot_pivot.zip

Jeff, I am Glad to see you got everything up and running. Do you like the Aimpoint? It does get some getting used to. Tom Thanks! I think it looks really good. I've only shot it in competition once. I can't say that I noticed the sight, I just saw the dot and pulled the trigger. I guess maybe that's a good sign. I'm going to shoot it in a couple of more matches, then put the c-more back on and shoot some more.

Hey Nate! Congrats! Have you tried them with an open gun? I'd love to have a pair, but ususally double-plug. I'd hate to spend the money, then still need to double plug.

This happened to my friend last month. It had been the getting worse and worse for months. Two weeks ago, he discovered that his sight was loose and had been drifting.

I totally agree! Even for the magazines. Run them factory original for a while. Get the extractor setup properly. Adjust the take-up and over-travel screw on the trigger. Go shoot! Make sure there is nothing wrong. Here's a list of the common modifications: Light hammer spring (better trigger) Extra long firing pin (more reliable ignition with light spring) Light main spring (adjust to your favorite recoil feel) New grips (Henning's look cool) Trigger job with EGW hammer/sear (even better trigger) Side Winder Slide Racker (if the factory one is too low)

I'd pay $250 for a case feeder for my Square Deal B! What are the chances? Dillon? You listening?

I was flinging 7625 out of the shells as my SDB auto-indexed. I don't remember how much I was using.

Found it!!! USPSA web page classified adds. In case you don't know: Click 'members' at the top of the main page, enter the username and password (from the Front Sight magazine, pm me if you don't have it handy.) Click 'classified' on the right. 2nd page, add number 12945

I think we should make sure that we know who that person is before we troll the classifier DB for every one who DQ'ed. I don't know for a fact who the person is and I wouldn't want to point finger at the wrong person. If the name that was given to me is correct, then their classification doesn't exhibit an entry like the one you mention, so one us must be wrong True. The guy I was looking at wasn't shooting Production. As soon as I saw that post, I knew it wasn't the same guy.

I was looking at this gentleman's classifiers on USPSA.org. One of them lists the club as "USPSA President". Click on it, and you M.Voigt's contact info. I've never seen it before? What does it mean?

Um... now you've got me a little spooked. I started with 1k of the IPFs and SP2. When I ran out, I ran through 2500 of the Ranier. Never had any feeding problems. Oh, well, I guess I'll find out soon enough. I've got a box of 3800 in the garage, just opened this weekend. What kind of problems did you have?

Oh, come on! I've been smoking cigars and watching 'Married with Children' while reloading for years!

Thanks Len! Just ordered a set. I've been looking for something to use to 'double plug'. I can't turn up the volume enough on my electronic muffs with traditional soft squeeze-me ear plugs. These might be the perfect solution.

At a book store? Around here, all the spiked hair, tie-died, unshaven, birkenstock wearing, hemp clad bookstore employees hide the gun stuff in the back. I think they get together once a month to have a bonfire and dance in circles around the warm comforting glow of free speech.

+1 on the Square Deal B. (aka SDB) I bought a Lee Turret for my first press. It was easy and simple, but required 3x the work of the Dillon to load ammo. I know there is comfort and safety with starting out simple (single stage or turret). However, assuming your mechanical skills are not nill, you should be able to handle a Square Deal B very easily. It was only a matter of months before I tired of the turret, and wanted a progressive. If you order one from Dillon (or Brian E) they will come all setup and ready to run. You'll need to add components (bullets, primers, powder, and brass), and adjust the powder measure and bullet depth. Other than that, you're set. The only down side to the SDB is that it uses special dies, available only from Dillon. In my opinion, the basic setup would be: Dillon Square Deal B Digital Calipers Scale (balance is fine, but electronic is cool) Primer Flip tray Reloading components Reloading manual Tumbler and separator (for cleaning brass) Now, a LOT of people use the Dillon 550b. They can handle rifle and pistol cartridges. You can also add a case feeder. They use 'standard' dies, available from many sources. The big difference betweent he 550b and the SDB is that the 550b does not automatically index (turn the shells to the next position). This is a big deal to me, but many others do not care. The best reason to get a 550b is if you are buying it locally from another shooter who is willing to help you with setup and teach you how it works. Of course, this is also possible with the SDB, but less likely.

From a steel shoot this winter. A cop, shooting his duty load.

No downside, as long as the J-Point is for you. I tried a Cmore, Jpoint, and now an aimpoint. I still haven't decided. Also, consider that switching between open and irons might be easier with a j-point, the index is about the same. Being a tight-wad, I'd price out all the stuff and know the exact cost. Then, if a used top-end goes on sale, you can make an informed judgement about the price. I'd guess that you could save a lot of money buying a used 'package' from someone. I REALLY wish I could find that one I saw last week, it would be perfect for you. It came with a c-more and mount, which you could sell and put toward a j-point.

I wish I could reload inside. No room! One thing to think about is carpet. I frequently spill spent primers on the floor of my garage. The little catch bucket gets full, or sometimes one just misses it. It is nice to cleanup with a broom and dustpan, instead of a vac. If I had a reloading room inside, I'd use something besides carpet.

Thanks for asking this quesiton. I've wondered the same thing, since I like to wear hats that provide lots of shade. I've actually considered cutting a slot and adding some velcro to my floppy hat, so it can be adjusted to fit the over-the-head muffs. Hey! Maybe this could be a new product idea!

Oh, I hear this all the time. Usually from the same group of guys that spent another $5k to save 3 more ounces on their racing bicycles. Frankly, it scares away a lot of potential shooters that could become life members. I made B-Class with a cheap Chinese 1911, some $15 mags, and a used safariland rig that cost $30. Every week I beat the snot out of people with $6000 guns and gear. Yea, I my gun doesn't feed SWC, so I use RN. I tune my mags with a pair of plyers. I know it is no fun to have a jam-o-matic, but you can make comprimises and still get a good gun. I say all this with a smile and a grin, in a friendly way (since you can't hear or see me). I think you should borrow an open gun and try it out, more than once. Ask around at your local match. A lot of people have spares. If you like it, then consider how to get there. There is a big difference between the J-Point and C-More. If you can, try both before you buy. It seems a little expensive to pay for a J-Point type sight, just to try open. I just saw a 38 super top-end for sale here last week. I can't find the post, but it had everything but a barrel link and a couple 140mm mags. Oh, and personally, I wouldn't hesitate to drill and tap my frame for a scope mount. If you don't like open, you can install some nice button-head screws in the holes. If you want to switch back-n-forth weekly, the j-point type sight is probably best. P.S. Do you like Glocks? I think there's an open glock with all the trimmings for under $1000 for sale right now!