Jeff686

I've tried the UpLula on my 38 super mags. A friend at the range let me try it. It works great! However, there are two small negatives... 1st - Price. That thing is expensive. It's a good thing it works for a bunch of calibers/mags. 2nd - Last round. When trying to squeeze that last round into the mag, it doesn't work. The 'tongue' presses down the top round. You insert the next round between the tongue and the feed lips, then the tongue slides out. With the last round, there is not enough room for the tongue and last round, so it doesn't work. I use one of these: http://www.magloader.com/

I'm guessing you don't reload. What's the point of shooting open if you can't get the right bullet/powder mix to work the comp and tune the gun to your shooting style? If I didn't reload, I'd shoot the Atlantic Arms ammo. I think they call it .355 Super (9mm Major). http://www.atlantaarmsandammo.com/products.html

If you switch to 38TJ brass, you might have more luck with the U die. The 38 TJ brass is the same as SuperComp, but has a higher groove, so it requires a little less penetration depth for 'full length' resizing. Henning Walgren talks about it here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...62126&hl=TJ. Although he is refering to a Tanfoglio open gun, the theory of the 38 TJ brass is the same. Starline makes TJ, and it is about the same price as Super/SuperComp.

Do the 'Stock' models have take-up and over-travel screws? Maybe they need adjusting.

I wonder if the Atlanta Arms stuff will make major in a Gold Team V12. I've got a V8 in 38 super. I'm running 7.3 of IMR7625 with a Montana Gold 121gr IFP and Starline or Armscor Brass. Longshot is my backup powder. It has a high density, so it doesn't fill the 38 super case, so it might work with 9mm. I wish I had a 9mm. If I did, I wouldn't buy new brass. I'd buy some once-fired used stuff and only pickup after practice. At a match, I'd leave it on the ground. You can get it for less than $55 per 1000 from Brassman.com. Ken Marx sells it on USPSA.org (classified ads) for around $45 per 1000. Now that's cheap! Plus it is easy on your back. If you decide to pickup brass at a match, you'll get back more than you shoot, since all those production shooters leave nice new brass behind.

I grew up in western Pa, and the snow there was much worse and lasted longer. However, it didn't seem to be nearly as paralizing. I guess when you have one plow for the whole city, don't use salt, and 90% of the people think chains are mandatory (and have a 5mph speed limit), things come to a screeching halt. I think that Portland got a lot more snow. Did Eugene get any?

Man, I'm really starting to get cabin fever. The office is closed until January 5th. Everyone is gone, so I don't even have to worry about what's happening in my absence. We've had over a week of winter weather, which would be fine, but here in the valley (Oregon), they don't have the equipment or experince to deal with it. All the December matches were either canceled or unaccessable. I've already loaded 500 rounds of 38super ammo for the next match and setup the press to make some 45. I even ordered some new shell plates and other spare parts from Midway. I can't leave the house. My son has a friend over for the day, and the roads are bad enough to worry about his parents getting upset if we venture onto them. I can't even dry fire, since I don't want the visitor to report that I was 'playing with my guns' to his parents.

I'm shootintg a Gold Team V8 in 38 super with 7.3 of 7625 and a Montana Gold 121gr IFP at 1.24OAL They gave me 1000 free bullets when I bought a press from Hornady. Unfortunately, they are 115gr HP/XTP. I plan to load them with the same OAL as the 121grIFP. Can anyone make a guess at how much powder to add to my recipe? I want to minimize the number of trips to the range, so any advice would be great.

I love the chrome on my 1911. It was done with a matte and brushed combo by Virgil Tripp. No scratches, even small ones. My Witness (Tanfoglio Gold Team) has a polished chrome finish, and it seems to show the scratches and wear marks as described above. I will always choose the matte and/or brushed finish with chrome.

Rye, What exactly are you shooting it through? Gold Team V8.... V12 ? Custom gun? How many ports? What compensator?

Did they actually say 'sponsored by Paypal', or was there just a Paypal commercial on the outdoor channel? If Paypal bought a 'package deal' with some advertising agency or corporate network, they might be on ION, Outdoor Channel, and BET, but not have specifically requested those demographics.

Hi there, Some folks wipe, some clean with a light solvent and rag, some tumble. I leave it on. It has never caused any problem that I can see other than a little grime on my fingers after loading a bunch of mags. Do a search of the reloading forums for "case lube" and you will find pages of stuff to enjoy. Later, Chuck I used to leave it on, it didn't hurt functionality. However, I like to stripe my brass, and it really keeps the dye from sticking. It acts as a barrier and makes the marks come off during firing. If I clean them first, the stripe stays on until tumbling...

My son's class is reading 'Charlie and the Chocolate Factory' in school. They just finished last week, and then ended by watching the movie (Tim Burton's version). Coming from the era of Gene Wilder and the 1971 version, I just don't get the new one. In fact, I think it is just twisted and wrong. Burton added all the mumbo jumbo flash back to Wonka's childhood. He and Johnny Depp created a bizarre and disjointed attempt at art, and ended up showing how strange they really are. Too bad they billed it as a kid's movie. Anyone else think it is junk?

All you care to know and more: http://www.rimfirecentral.com/ It's the like the 10/22 version of BE.

I started hoarding mags last year. I bought a bunch of the metal ones here: http://www.44mag.com/ The guy has a good reputation here in Oregon.

In case you didn't hear: Due to potential weather conditions we have made a change for this Saturday's match. The day match will go on but the night match has been cancelled due to potential hazardous driving conditions. I've shortened up the stages a little to cut down on the amount of time each stage takes and of course we are under cover for the match. I hope to see you there and we look forward to some good weather breaks and a great match. - Match Director

I totally agree, but... I've got a large frame Tanfoglio Gold Team. They don't make 140/170mm mags for it that work with 9mm. There are rumors that they are working on it... Until then, gotta mark that brass.

Yea, I wish for 9 major. Once they work out the magazine issues with my gun, I'll probably switch. For now, I'm sticking with 38 super.

I drove past there frequently. Went to WVU. Never stopped. How did the shopping trip go?

I love the prize table. I usually finish high enough to have a reasonable selection. It gives me the opportunity to try things that the wife won't let me buy. If I won cash, she'd just make me take her out for dinner. (tounge in cheek)

Well, the match is held in the same bays as the regular matches. I didn't attend last year, but have prior years. Mostly, I remember it is cold. Of course, cold and dry is much better than tepid and rainy. I think there are 4 or 5 stages in the match. Usually there is a stage with road flairs, one with a floodlight (backlight or partially obscured), and one with police light bar. Sometimes it can get pretty dark, and a flashlight is needed to find the targets. Other times you can shoot the stage without a personal light. I think if people didn't ruin their night vision (by using flashlights to score, tape, load, etc) you could shoot the whole match without extra light. However, that is not practical. I've thought about wearing sunglasses, then switching to clear at 'Make Ready'. If I remember the rules correctly (which may have changed). A head mounted or gun mounted flashlight puts you in 'open' class. Lasers are of course in 'open' class. Otherwise, they standard classes apply. MANY people discover that they can't see their sights, and ended up shooting one handed, holding the flashlight above their head trying to illuminate the target and their gun. I would suggest you bring a light for shooting (your choice), plus a small LED or keyfob light for rummaging in your bag, loading mags, and score keeping. Obviously, the match goes a little slower than normally, but it is worth it. I think they hand out chem lights (necklaces or similar) that everyone has to wear, just to be a little safer. You might want to bring your own extra, just in case. Otherwise, gloves and a hat. Oh, I usually do very well shooting my 1911 with trijicon night sights. However, this year I'm going to shoot open with my V8 popple holes and comp on my Tanfoglio. Can you say fireball? Oh, bring a camera!!

sounds like a good mod for a case pro. Do you have to resize again after the case pro? If not, one could just decap in station 1. Then the strip would stay on. Of course, I don't need a case pro

Did you mean in the electric screwdriver? I think it is 1/2". I used a chunk of rubber to add some friction. If you're asking about the plastic block, I don't recall what size drill bit I used, but it wasn't one of the standard sizes. I think it was a numbered bit. Where in Pittsburgh are you from? I grew up near Freeport, in Buffalo Twp.

I'm not totally sure. I believe it is some type of delrin. I got it from the scrap bin at work. It is medium hard, and looks/feels similar to the self-lubricating plastic parts in my Dillon press. I think the key was getting the hole size correct, too big and they flopped around. Too small, and they didn't spin. Also, I'm using Montana Gold IFP, which look a lot like a JHP, but no hole, just flat lead on the front. I think that keeps the contact area down, and lets the bullets spin better. I did notice during this last batch that the rubber I stuffed in the socket is getting dirty. I'll have to replace it soon, or find another way to keep it tacky. If I had the time, I would pick a smaller socket, maybe 3/8th, then bore and chamfer out the inside a little (slightly funnel shaped) to make transitions faster . The smallest socket that fits your ammo is best, since it tends to wobble if off-center.

800 rounds/hour beats the daylights out of my method. What is the tool at the end of the cordless screwdriver that grabs the brass? (In other words I like your method better than mine and want to switch.) Bill Hi Bill, That's a socket driver. I think it is 1/2". I jammed a piece of rubber in it, so it grabs the ammo. The key is the bullet tray. I found a drill bit that was only a slight bit larger than the 38 super cases. I drill only deep enough to cover the bullet and a few mm of the brass. Most importantly, stagger the holes so you can reach between the outer row and hit the inner row with the marker.