Jeff686

We pay an extra $3 per shooter to handle teardown. Money well spent, in my opinion. I have back trouble, and don't want to tear down, and feel guilty when I lot others do it. The money goes to locals for teardown. I think we had the Boy Scouts, 4H, and some other groups for a while...

A similar thing happened to me once!! Except the guy had a Glock....

I wasn't talking about the the bushing, I was thinking of the clamp. Then adjust the die within the LNL bushing. Anyway, it is irrelevant now. Cool idea. Yea, I knew what you meant. We're talking about the same part. The word 'clamp' is much better than bushing. I wasn't using the correct term. I don't have a very good mechanical vocabulary.

Honestly, I've never tried it without the return spring. I figured that it was there originally, so I kept it. I thought about using a bolt as an travel stop, instead of the slider, but I couldn't find a reasonable place to drill large enough holes for it. The posts that hold the spring are hexagonal, and screw into the bushings. Unfortunately, they stop at odd angles, making it difficult to drill a straight holes to make a travel stop. Oh, and the low primer warning device is an RCBS unit that I painted blue to look like Dillon. Here it is before I painted it: Just kidding. But that is a picture of an RCBS product. Who really makes it, and who just relabels it?

Thanks for the replies everyone. Unfortunately, I didn't do any drop variation studies before and after the slider installation. I don't know if there was an improvement. If I lower the bushing to 5-7 threads it doesn't change much. It will bell the cases a little, but I don't like how it tops out the rotor then uses the lever arms to pass the forces to bell the case. Plus, making on-the-fly bell adjustments is really easy. Sorry, I don't have any plans to sell them. Not that I haven't had some people interested, or don't want to help, but I didn't make it, I just designed it. I'll give out the plans for free, if anyone wants them. I did send pictures and plans to Steve Hornady. Maybe they'll pick it up.

Brian, Which inkjet printers did you have, and why didn't you like them? You can PM me if you don't want to post you comments.

Hello! Which side of the fame is the serial number? There are several scope mounts that are single sided. I am using a single sided Aimpoint Comp mount on my Gold Team. It mounts on the left side. Also, the Barry C-More sight mounts on the left (http://www.henningshootsguns.com/shop/mounts.html). It seems that RHT and MCG also make left-side only mounts for the Aimpoint Micro. You can probably have a custom mount made for a C-more or Aimpoint Micro that mounts on the right side. See my thread for ideas and pics: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...=51136&st=0

I made one from a Lee Autoprime. I used some epoxy putty to fill the gaps in the square chute in the lee flip tray. I used some wax on the primer tube as a release agent (sorta like bedding a rifle action). The only problem was getting the tube exactly lined up with the hole in the flip tray. If you can figure out a good way to easily do that, it will work well. Oh, and I didn't use a vibrator (wife couldn't spare hers), I just held it up to my vibrating case cleaner.

Does anyone know if those rubbermaid type storage tubs will stand up to repeated exposure to action blaster or brake clean type chemicals? Right now, I'm using an aluminum foil roasting pan to catch the spray when cleaning my guns. However, the action blaster sprays all over the place, especially when it hits a crevice or corner. Plus, it is a real pain to brush so that splatter doesn't hit me in the face. I'm thinking of making a 'blasting booth' type box for cleaning parts. I thought a big plastic storage bin, with a plexiglass window, some pipe fittings and rubber kitchen gloves would work. Anyone done this?

Spare replacement parts make sense, especially those that break more often. Do you keep a spare stripped chassis? He was selling that part too....

I tried an optima on my MKII and on my 686. I think they are fine for IPSC/ICORE shooting, but I couldn't hit more precise targets. It seems that the optima had a little paralax, enough to matter. I used to shoot golf ball matches with my MKII, I always got 1st or 2nd place with my burris speed dot. After switching to the optima, I lost badly.

Your 686 should kick butt! It has plenty of power. I use mine when I infrequently go to the local match. I always do very well with it. The nice thing about using a revolver is that you can use any bullet shape you need. I usually just buy factory loads with big hollow points in 357. The key to using the revolver for pins is to hit the center of mass with one shot, then get a cadence going. As you recover from the recoil, the trigger starts to squeeze so that when the sights fall onto the next pin the shot breaks. It is very satisfying to beat a guy with a 1911 who shoots his mag and has to reload, while you tag them down one at a time like a machine. Depending on how large the table is, and how far away it is, you should easily clear it in one shot per pin. As far as getting a new guy, I'd wait. You'd be surprised how quality shooting with a smaller caliber can out perform a big bore pin gun. In USPSA, I used to love beating the $4,000 race guns with my little chinese 1911 clone. I've since gone to the dark side, but that's another story. Plus, if you get a new pin gun, then the match falls through... well...

I started to write a note, but stopped. I was kinda angry at the attempt to profit from people ignorant of Dillon's no BS warranty. The auction is formatted with a generic 'ebay store' look, so it appears to be an uneducated middleman of some kind. I am just so sick of the crap on ebay, getting in the way of a decent exchange of products between individuals. Maybe I'm just spoiled by the BE classified adds.

I was cruzin ebay this evening. It seems someone there is parting out a SDB? Why? Does he think he's going to make money? I always thought of them like Craftsman hand tools. You only need to buy a new part if you loose it. If it breaks, they replace it.

I don't get the love affair with the 550. Either get a SDB or a 650. The only advantage of a 550 over a SDB is the industry standard size dies. Otherwise, the SDB is an awesome machine for pistol shooting. The great thing about a SDB is they hold their value well. They have a cash value of around $250 right now.

I'm running 121 MG IFP in my Gold Team. Never had a problem, never even knew I shouldn't use them. I load to 1.24 - 1.25 OAL. I also don't use a U-Die. Maybe my Gold Team is looser than others. I don't have any accuracy problems. I often wonder about making an IPSC gun so tight (accurate) that they get unreliable. I know there's a tradeoff between money, reliability, and accuracy. If you have the money and a really good gunsmith, you can get an accurate and reliable firearm. However, how much accuracy is really necessary? I think people forget that 'good enough' is... well... 'good enough'. A perfect example is my L10 rig. It is a Norinco 1911 with a Virgil Tripp trigger job & chrome. My total cost was under $600. Does the slide rattle? No. Are the machine marks visible inside the slide and dust cover? Yes. Can I clear a texas star without missing? Yes. I made B class with it, and I don't really practice. Anyway, maybe my Gold Team is a litte like my Norinco . Accurate enough, runs well, costs less than a Disney vacation.

What's the point of a progressive if you have to deprime/resize/prime on a different press?

I hope you are being sarcastic. Cops are good people, but won't get there in time to do anything but clean up.

One could easily argue that sight height above bore (for open guns with red dots) is much more important than BC. What I mean is that basic triganometry is is the biggest issue to consider in picking a distance to zero the sights, not distance and BC. However, most open shooters use C-More sights, which are very high over the bore, so it must not really matter all that much either.

Try a camera shop, not Walmart or Target. Professional photographers use heavy duty tripods.

I'd like a NEF handi rifle with 223, 308, and 357 barrels. I'd like a 10/22 with a kid's size stock for my son.

Yea, 45 is 45. I only buy used stuff. If you can't find it locally, try brassmanbrass.com or that guy that sells on uspsa.org in the classified section. I buy starline for 38 super comp. I like it a lot.

I'm going to add a bullet feeder. The LNL bushings make it easy to move stuff around, so I had the powder measure out front for easy access/photos. It will move to station 2 when I get the bullet feeder. Make sense?

I know there's an undergound semi-secret mirror to ar15.com. Is this the same thing with the highroad? If so, which one is the original, and which the copy? Which one is more popular? They must diverge eventually? Right?

I know that most people here are Dillon snobs. It is understandable, since they make a good product and have great support. However, I recently bought a Hornady LNL progressive press. I do not intend to discuss the merits of blue vs red here, but rather to show one of the modifications I've made to the press, in case anyone here finds it useful. I'm loading 38 super, and I want to add a bullet feeder. Hornady die sets usually have a separate powder drop station and expander station, but they do offer a powder through expander. I found it difficult to adjust and couldn't get the correct amount of bell in the case mouth. I know others have had the same problem, since there is a lot of discussion of how to properly do it on other forums. Furthermore, I didn't like the way the mechanism 'tops out' to get the pressure to bell the case. My measure was leaning and twisting, and the levers that move the rotor were taking all the torque needed to bell the case. It just didn't feel right... So, I played around with the spring. I thought that changing the spring tension might take some of the pressure off the levers at the end of the rotor travel. Then I noticed how large the spring posts were, and firgured I could design a slider that would sit behind the spring. The purpose of the slider would be to stop the travel of the powder measure before the rotor 'tops out'. The slider could transfer all the force needed to bell the case to the two bushings that mount to the top and bottom of the powder measure. Furthermore, with a threaded hole in the slider, small and simple adjustments to the travel of the powder measure could be made, and the amount of the bell could easily be controlled. Pictures of the slider are attached. A link below also shows a video of it in operation. Special thanks to my friend Gene, who took my drawings and machined the slider for me. Here's the slider with the powder measure at rest: Here's the slider with the powder measure at full throw: