jaredr

holy cr@p was my reaction... upside is i'll feel like i'm getting a real bargain when i break down and get the swarovski...

+1 reminder the the trim die is a sizing die also. I have one 1050 toolhead dedicated to prepping rifle brass - deprime/resize, swage primer pocket, trim, expand neck. I've adjusted the sizing die to do all resizing and have the trim die set to only resize, i.e. by the time a cartridge gets to the trim station, it has already been fully resized, and the trim die is adjusted to trim the brass without actually moving the shoulder back or resizing the cartridge. This is simply done by backing the trim die out so it won't touch a properly sized cartridge and then adjusting down the cutter head so it trims to the right cartridge length. reason for this is I was concerned that if I ever got a cartridge stuck, I didn't want to have to remove the trim die (looks more fragile with cutout for trim head and more of a pain to readjust after clearing a stuck cartridge). so far, i have never had a stuck .223, but i've had plenty in .308 and man are they a pain... -jared

absolutely. thanks brian. -jared

recommend www.brownells.com for parts

if it's just getting dinged coming out of the ejection port, your brass should be fine. as someone mentioned above, the resizing die/powder drop dies will sort it out. definitely wouldn't get rid of it (unless you want to send it to me ). I'd keep saving it up then, then load up some dummy rounds as part of your first reloading test just to cycle a few through the pistol and check for feeding/chambering, etc. welcome to reloading!

didn't rob romero just post a how to video on that reload?

that is just all out cool. almost reminds me a bit of some of the early 80's full profile comp guns which had beautiful machine work just for the sake of making the firearm a work of art.

noticed there was someone riding shotgun im that boat - besides spending all his time trying not to pee himelf, what exactly does the passenger do in that sport?

I didn't see that. Can you post a link? Was this a post by the guy this (supposedly) happened to, or another person? Sounds like an urban legend to me. I've been doing it the way I do it for 25 years now. I'm not trying to be offensive - truly - and obviously you should do what you're comfortable with. I understand the theory this could be dangerous. I just find it really hard to take a theory seriously, for my own use, when it doesn't match up with my own long-term, real-world experience. Sorry. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...ger+lost+primer actually recall reading this thread a year ago. i didn't make any effort to varify it through any other news sources, but just took it as another reason to be careful when loading primers... -jared

acurrent accurate arms data lists 25 gr of 2230 as max load for a 55 gr nosler ballistic tip. keen to hear what others will say, for an unexpert opinion my $.02 would be to try 10% down from that in your pmc brass and work up to look for pressure signs. i wouldn't start out with 25 gr as my first loading. -jared

great for a laugh, and thanks for posting since I missed it the first time around... -jared

unless your suppressor can be disassembled for cleaning (and I don't now of any centerfire suppressors that can be, but that doesn't mean someone doesn't make one), I would not fire lead bullets through it. lead will quickly build up inside the can - think of what happens to your comp if you fire lead bullets through it. problem is when you get enough lead build up to induce a baffle strikes which will damage the internals. it may be repairable, but you'll have to return it back to the manufacturer and the cost (+ delays and aggravation in filing the fed forms to transfer it back to the manufacturer) is probably something you'd want to avoid. my $.02. -jared

check out the "ninja warrior" series on G4tv (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJmCem8qbTE). no martial arts, insteads it's basically an insane obstacle course that's all about upper body strength and gymnastic abilities.

man is that true. i'm getting chest pains and my left arm is going numb just from reading this thread... -jared

understand, thank you for your reply -jared

i've got a beretta 1201FP, like it but don't use it much. thinking about dressing it up a bit and would like to try a pistol grip stock. understand that an M1S90 swaps right in but can't find any, have found a non-collapsing M4 - curious to know if anyone has any idea whether it too will swap into the 1201? not interested in the uber-expensive collapsable M4 stock, just want to try getting some time on a pistol grip scattergun without shelling out too much money. Thanks in advance for any comments, suggestions. -jared

oobullitt - noticed that none of you are are using a sling on your rifle when shooting a stage (or at least I did not see slings mounted on any of the rifles in the videos you posted). maybe a noob question (i do not shoot 3 gun or compete in any carbine shoots) but would like to understand why? not questioning decisions - doesn't look like any of you need advice from me, so if you've determined that a sling is not helpful for competition just wondering what the drawbacks were that have prompted you to discard it. I have always trained/practiced with a 2 point sling, so looking to better understand where that may be a hinderance for competition. my guess? i'm thinking (for me) a sling is helpful when i want to take the time to sling up and try and get better more stable shooting platform. perhaps for you the trade off is not worthwhile since you're accurate enough to meet your needs without slinging up? I noticed that the shooter at the beginning of the fort benning video (maybe rob romero or jansen jones) was shooting prone unslung and getting hits on what looked like 300-500 yards? thanks in advance for any thoughts you can offer - jared

simply awesome. very motivating video, thanks for posting!

thanks for your reply, confirms this won't be an inexpensive move but I'll probably regret it buying cheaper and then complaining about the compromise until i trade up at a loss...

Thanks!

my $.02 - + small differences in cartridge length shouldn't impact your cartridge overall length - as long as there's enough cartridge neck to hold the projectile, the length should be defined by how deep the seater stuffs the bullet, not how much neck is holding it in (within reason) + i haven't used the redding competition seater for .223, but I do use it for .308 and i've found loaded rounds to be very consistent (within ~.001) + SMK's are a quality bullet, wouldn't think the issue is due to manufacturing tolerances with the projectile what press are you using? any looseness in the shellplate?

Thanks for posting the videos! Can you tell us what glass the shooters were using on their rifles? looked like one was maybe a short dot or swarovski Z6 - i couldn't tell (just curious - i'm looking to move from an eotech to a magnified optic, keen to see what others are using for that). Thanks, jared

had posted this in another thread on this subject - I've got about 30,000 rounds loaded with lead bullets through the KISS bulletfeeder on my 650 - mostly .45 ACP 200 gr LSWC and .38 special loading either 125 gr rn or 147gr truncated nose .355 bullets (taper crimping). have generally no problems running lead projectiles through the bulletfeeder but you do need to stop every 500 - 1000 rounds and do a diligent cleaning of the bullet collator wheel and the inside of the feeder assembly (including the bullet dropper). Issue is that bullet lube collects on those surfaces and produces a sticky buildup that will impair function and (eventually) introduce jams. this may be in part to the bullet's i'm using (Valliant) where the bullet lube is more sticky (and less hard) then something like Oregon Trail. Valliants are a <lot> cheaper so I don't mind having to clean up after them. I also spray a bit of hornady one shot to in the collator bowl when adding new lead bullets to help them slide down the spring guide and through the dropper with a bit less drag, but this only forestalls the cleaning cycle a bit. truth is that I only mind the cleaning intervals required by lead projectiles when i have been previously loading jacketed bullets. loading 9mm ball, you can literally sit there for hours like a monkey playing a slot machine - between the case feeder and bullet feeder, you just keep your eye on the cartridge as it advances past the powder drop and check the powder charge. induces a zen-like feeling of relaxation... my $.02 -jaredr

signed up.

For 200yd or less save your money,, shoot MG, or REM 55 FMJ. they are cheap and cost less,,, than any Match----- bullet You will get your money's worth out of Match grade bullets. but you don't need them up close, that being 200yds or less.. I shoot MG 55's with 24.1GR A2230 and am able to get the same ballistic path with 69's and 77's Nosler Competitions over the 24.1GR of A2230 Jim M ammo +1 on MG55 gr fmj. $76/1000 delivered - they're always available and I've had great luck with 24 gr of AA2230. longest distance I can usually shoot at is 100 yards so more expensive OTM bullets are pretty much wasted on me. I've also had good results with hornady 55 gr ball, but even in bulk the best price i've seen for them is about $80/1000 + shipping and they're frequently backordered.