want2race

I'll go one step further. I shoot a G23 for Production. I started with a 34 then to a 35 (for limited), now I just shoot my carry gun for Production. I prefer the lighter weight and quick pointing of the small gun. A G19 will work just fine. Unless you just need a reason to buy something new.

I just switched to Kydex for the EXACT reasons Singlestack pointed out above. I'm more aggresive getting the hand on the gun with Kydex. I could never get into .8's with my Ghost but I can from Kydex. I've come to realize that the finish on my guns is optional at the cost of speed.

I think there may be something about running the heavy piston. I had an SLP that refused to function with normal field loads. Had to use extra strength stuff. I used the light piston. Never even thought to use the heavy piston, thinking that it was going in the wrong direction.

I still don't know why it's advised to start the checkering with the longer vertical lines. I always start out cutting the horizontal lines first then finish with the long verticals. Since there is less metal the verticals don't take as long if done after. Also, since you know where your last horizontal line will be (top line) you can take your undercut job all the way to the BASE of the first (top) horizontal serration. Some like that, some don't. It will make your serrations "stand up" off the front strap. Then again you can start with a smooth transition from undercut job to serrations then if you want to have them 'stand up' you can do it later. I think it looks better, but prefer the feel of the smooth transition.

I tried Skoal again a couple times after I quit (years later), I just can't believe that in my head it tasted good. I used to LOVE Mint Skoal. Now, it nearly turns my stomach to smell an open can. The memory of it is certainly better than reality and that is what really helped me through the tough times.

Military time and tobacco is almost a given. 8 years with Skoal started in Ranger School, 1994. I quit 4 times. I tried switching to chew, that just made my crave dip. I'd quit for a while but when I had to be awake more than 24 hours dip made it much easier. If I was outside, soaking wet and miserable, dip made it more enjoyable. I finally kicked it by smoking instead. I started smoking a hooka while living in Kuwait. Awesome stuff. Not totally safe but better. WAY less of the nasty shit they put in cigarettes and dip. Tasted great (notice past tense). I would fight the craving to dip all day knowing I would go home to smoke a bowl of double Apple ShiSha. It helped get me past the rough part of quiting. The main difference was I could stop smoking the hooka cold with zero cravings. I dare even say it was non-addictive. I have two pipes above me right now and box full of flavored tobacco, neither of which has been touched in over two years. The other reason I smoked in Kuwait: ZERO alcohol. No beer, no bourbon. My other vices, but that's another topic. Congrats on quiting. You're mental highs and lows will even out and you may find that you are actually less tired after awhile.

Finally got one to go my way! SS 6.2642 HF

Funny, you'll shoot Ltd and Open to keep things the same and simulate a 10 stager. I'm seriously thinking about using my skinny gun for SS and L10 for the same reason. For some reason I can run the skinny gun better (faster/cleaner) than my STI.

Since you asked... (1911 shown)

My best result was stage 10: High crash factor... I enjoyed Field of Steel. In the 42's but left one standing.... That club was insane! Black top everywhere, western town, plenty of porto-pots and even a flusher. I'm surprised Steel1212 hasn't reminded me more that he beat me on a few stages while using his single stack.

Doc, or Steve. Shot in Squad 6 with the KY Krew.

My Mach2 STI mag pouches fit my glock mags. If I tighten down the screw, it will hold the G mags very well. Safariland 771 or 773? Worn vertically, behind the hip they meet the rules.

shootersconnection.com has them and ships intl.

Guess I need to find out where the rifle hits at 100y.

I've been struggling with contacts for weeks. trying to get the right power to see the front sight as crisp as with my old prescription glasses. I read an article on the decot website that explains it all. My right eye is Farked, won't focus as well close and intermediate. Now I know what direction to take. I'm not close to 40 either, I inherited crap eyes. Bi-farkles here I come. Thanks for the link to Safevision. The SLIK's look good enough to try. I will go for the inverted bi-focal and give that a whirl. The two powers will only be -.50 different but hopefully it makes a big difference in scores.

So a 24" is legal for Tactical division as long as it only holds 8+1?

That's why I asked (GC trigger). I know you're out of the shop for a while, when you get back: Chuck that trigger up in the vice. You can thin it down that way, just as you had planned. Use coolant. Here's how wide that trigger is:

I had the choice of going .40 but a discovered some $75 frames and Fosters slides aren't too expensive. I decided I NEEDED a .45 single stack, I can always build a .40 top end later. .45 mags are cheaper and easier to come by. Now that I reload .45 I see why so many are completely enamored by it.

Funny to read about Swensons. I've had similar experience with them. If you bought the Gold Cup version of the EGW trigger you may be in for an unpleasant suprise if you have a standard Caspian frame. Have you tried to slide it into the frame yet? The Gold Cups have a MUCH wider trigger than standard.

I've run into the same issue fitting KKM's to Foster/Caspian slides as well.

That looks to be EGW. The only option for a "blank" trigger for Gold Cups too.

Blast then park = preferred. The last time I reparked a part, only the areas of exposed metal were affected by the solution. I was using the same solution so it came out great. If you are starting with a worn finish, I'd blast (oil, clean) then park. Dip it in boiling hot water after the degrease, right before dunking into park bath.

It's still in "SSSM". Super Secret Squirel Mode, until after hard anodize.

With a good degreasing, that should work. Park takes better to metal that has been blasted. That is what's recommended anyway. I don't blast the frame rails or inside the slide (under bushing) and the park holds "ok".

Finished up a "refresh" on a Colt Gold Cup. Reused the grips, frame, slide with rear sight and sear with depressor (Gold cup specific sear). Last couple are before and after.