want2race

I was considering a 'blem', $170 shipped. Figured it was worth trying.

...and that $500 difference is make or break. Is the Millet better than irons?

I'm on the opposide side of spring rates. Heavier is better, for me. I run an 18

I also have the SLP. At first everything was perfect. Buck, slugs and turkey (high velocity) loads were all perfect. Then I started using it to shoot some 3 gun. Would NOT cycle anything resembling normal field loads. Short stroking leaving the hull hanging out the ejection port. Light piston, I triple checked. The only field load I can use is the S&B mid brass. Any shell with low brass will not function, not enough power to cycle fully. Being that it's a magnum, police shotgun I think the ports are too small and/or barrel too short for skeet/field loads. Winchester has a third piston they use in their trap/skeet guns and I thought about trying that. Then I tried the S&B field load with the mid brass base. Works great. I shot the Win Super X slugs last weekend. About a 2 foot fireball out the barrel!! It functioned fine. Win Super X will not work. I had been using Remington Extra High velocity 6 shot before the S&B.

Mach 2 is where I got my Edge holster. I now use it for my short/wide dust cover gun. Still works.

I disagree with the sight dip caused by the barrel going into lockup. The barrel moves very little compared to inertia of the slide. Most shooters run light recoil springs. I still don't know why, other than it looks cool to rack the slide with one thumb over the top. At the range, I shot a mag using my 12.5 spring. Immediately following, swapped to an 18 pound spring. Reshoot another mag. The 18 pound spring had the slide closing before the gun fully recoiled in my hand. The slide closing so quickly counters the flip. It's similar in feel to shooting major then minor loads in the same gun. I then tried a 10 pound spring and the gun kicked up so hard I thought I was shooting 200pf loads. Trying to tame the flip caused my sight to dip once the slide finally did close (much delayed via soft spring). Considering the sight tracker already has some weight removed, lightening if further and tuning the recoil (slide speed) via heavier recoil spring could be a very flat gun. Sight would dip you say? That happens when the slide closes after you've already tried to resist the recoil flip. I've heard it so many times. Heavy spring = nose tip. I say the spring wasn't heavy enough. Then again, I always question the herd.

I only get two barrels (KKM barrels) out of a finish reamer. The third one turns out bad. Manson reamers. My first KKM had a short chamber, very easy to finish. Every barrel since has been rough all the way out to the hood (chamber reamer won't go into the barrel at all).

Fun huh? Yeah, the KKM chamber isn't short chambered. It's rough chambered. Your finish reamer probably started to cut at the barrel hood right? If this was the case, it is possible that the chamber was cut at a slight angle to the actual bore (if done by hand). The area of the barrel that needed to be looked at is the width of the feed ramp area. That area is machined a bit on the wide side. Thin it out slightly and it will slip in the slide easier. Hopefully you found where is was binding. I've had slides so tight I had to open up the inside bore before the barrel would even start to fit into it. Check to see if the barrel is in tension when locked up. Edited: Reread that you have a bull barrel, no bushing. Where did you take material off to get the barrel into the slide? How deep did you cut the chamber? GO gauge? +.002? You could try a little free bore if you a throat (only) reamer. Some have had success with 10mm throat depth, with a .40 chamber. There are so many variables that can turn an install ugly. I bought a "professionally built" pistol and found many areas there were LESS than ideal. Barrel fit was one. Very sloppy barrel install. Disappointed to say the least.

Me likie. She has good foot speed. Easy on the eyes too.

Cool vids. What is that a 10mm?

Just in case this hasn't been covered. Getting the chrome plating even (in thickness) from one end of the barrel to the other is near impossible (or at least not easy). It is usually not done to match grade barrels but on field or standard grade. This is what I've been told anyway. Lower maintanence with less accuracy. Trade-off. I have two barrels, on chromed, the other is not. I like the lined one as I don't have to oil-patch the barrel once a month like I do the other.

Here's a couple areas I use it for. Grip panels, beavertail blending and mag wells.

I do use a Dremel, but now I ain't tellin where. Ok, maybe. I shape the tail of the beaver with it. Blending in S&A magwells. Still, most things get hit with files afterward to finish up. I'd rather do slide serrations with a file, then a Dremel. That I would do. On my own gun. Only.

I like AR's as much as most, but it's time for a change. Flamesuit on. (Those that shall not be named) would break an Anvil just to see it done. I've seen breakages that just don't make sense. As for Graphite, isn't that Carbon based? Carbon build up in a bottle? I'm rooting for the FN. Mainly the .308. Ah, and there's the real reason for all this testing. Because you just can't fit 7.62x51 in an AR.

FAL with 13 inch barrel to reduce velocity in factory loads (closer to 320, instead of 440PF). You know you want one!

...He said "mall ninja"....he he. For an AR, close quarters, I use the front of the mag well. That's my VFG. Keeps my elbows in and minimizes the "fluff" on the rifle. Perfect? No but it works.

Other than the "made is USA", looks just like the Styer AUG.

I had a SportShootin' USA at a Pizza Hut near me. Played it a bit before I started shooting it for real. Fun game. Nice pad.

That's a better ghillie than I've seen by some adults! Awesome job.

Thank you for that post. I just swapped frames for someone and the trigger set that was fine in the old frame is not fine in the brand new frame. Both were same manufacture and type of frames. Perfect example of holes that aren't. Sear was only contacted on left side, extreme left side. I'm actually giddy inside now.

The EE parts are very good, but you can't go wrong having the "total package" worked over for a solid trigger.

Wow, so many good stories about good triggers. How about the bad? Ok, I'll start. Had a Koenig hammer, STI sear, stock spring, 19lb main. Was OK. 2.5 pounds. Wanted 2. After much fiddling (i.e. learning), trying various primary sear angles, hook heights and sear spring adjustments I was left with a nice crisp 2 pound trigger pull, that would hammer follow like a champ when dropping the slide. niiiice. After making so many adjustments to the hooks, they scooted far enough back that my safety was no longer blocking the sear (failed function check of safety). This was, after all, just a lesson in learnin' anyway. I had planned on buying new parts anyway. Dropped in a brand new EE kit. Complete with STI stock sear spring and retained my 17 pound main spring. Trigger was insane at about 4 pounds. Did I mention I was installing this AT THE match? Right. I brought my jig and stone with me. Adjusted the sear spring and stoned the top of the "Race" disconnector so it would quit hitting the side of the disconnector notch in my Caspian side. Got the trigger down to about 3 pounds (according to my highly sensitive index digit) . I could live with that. Unfortunately it couldn't. Last stage my trigger stopped resetting. I had to smack the bottom of the mag to get the trigger to reset. Back at the safe area, guts back out, stoned the disconnector leg of the sear spring. It had a rough edge where it contacts the disconnector and was "holding" onto it. That lasted until the Area 3 match. 2nd stage of the day. Had two light strikes in a row (rounds checked out). Installed 19 lbs spring after stage (at closest safe area) and continued without incident. Check trigger later with 19, 3.5 pounds. After some foul language I polished the hooks (with cotton) and stoned the secondary angle a bit more. Then ground and polished my Ti hammer strut, re-oiled and installed the 17lbs main spring, polished the sides of the hammer, hammer pin and sear pin. Back to a crisp 2.5 pound trigger. Many $$$'s short and two blown stages later I'm back to where I started. 2.5 pound trigger and just a little bit smarter. That was fun. Did I mention I run an -4 coil, 18 pound recoil spring?

Glad to read I'm not the only one that's broken a 6-48 tap. I was using a tapered tap. Bad. After having the broken bastard removed I finished tapping using a plug tap. The steeper cutting angle at the tip seemed to work better. I couldn't get the fingers of my tap remover down in the holes. I had to have it EDM'd out. Fortunately I found a place semi-locally with an EDM drill. Perfect hole afterwards, left all my threads intact. Life..er, Slide saver!

Springs are a personal preference thing. I like the 17 mainspring and a cut down 18 recoil spring. I like the slide to snap back very fast. It's not the typical "cool guy" set up where I can rack the slide with a thumb wrapped over the top of the slide but after some experimentation I found my second shot was much faster. With a light recoil spring my second shot was usually low (delayed slide return). I know, it's backwards from what everybody always says. I went up to a 19 main at the Area 3 due to two light strikes in a row but I've polished everything that moves (hammer strut, sides of hammer etc) and went back to the 17. We'll see if it works again.

Sounds like you've found the issue. Reading through the thread I was thinking sear spring was in front of the sear, not sitting on the back of it. If the sear spring isn't sitting where it's supposed to be you get all kinds of issues. Sounds like the spring/guid rod fit is snug. If it needs oil to function it's tight. Different rods have different diameters. A thinner rod will minimize the grinding. You can use your 600 grit on the guide rod...then polish it. A thinner rod will smoothen it out so it's not so finicky to oil I polish the top of the disconnector and shape it to reduce the 'snag' factor. Check the disconnect notch on the underside of the slide for excessive wear too. After installing a new "race" disconnector, one side of the top (of the discon.) was hitting the side of the notch in the slide. A little stoning fixed it. ..or take it a 'smith for a "tune up".