want2race

If Glocks fit your hands, a G35 tuned up a bit will do nicely (says the guy who does not like them). I love working on them, don't like shooting them. Granted a limited gun can be 'grip enhanced' so it wouldn't be so bad. M&P's have a much better trigger and (for me) better ergo's. Comparing a tuned M&P trigger with a tuned Glock trigger, both at 2#'s, the M&P is still better for me. Shorter reset, crisper break. Just start with an "L" or Pro. Parts are plenty for both. Both cost about the same. Both would benefit from sights and trigger work. Both can be stippled to achieve a great grip. I would go M&P, add Tungsten guide rod with 13# spring, and sights first. Then add trigger job, stipple and magwell in that order.

That sucks, I linked it using my mobile. It works using my phone. For everyone else that didn't shoot the match: Most shooters shot both steel positions then moved to the center port door, then went down range to the left postition, then ran behind the shooting area to the right shooting position. Try this:

Double taAAPP.

dupe

http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=%2F&gl=US#/watch?v=fGLcvlPNCR4 I shot stage one a little different. Since I had to reshoot the stage I was able to try a different plan.

Try to follow one of those good shooters during the walk through too. Not just where they are going, but what they are shooting at from each position. If you shoot with me I'll break down every stage with you if you want.

A miss would be listed as an M, not a PR. Section 10.2 of the rulebook lists the ways a procedural penalty can be assessed to a shooter. There is no way for us to guess at what happened on the stage in question. It could have been any number of things. The RO should have made you aware at the time that you were being assessed a penatly. Specifically, if the RO is doing his job, he WILL inform you when it is assessed and note the REASON for the penalty on the scoresheet per 10.1.1. Thanks, That is a long list!! It wasn't a DQ and I still had a great time. proberly just a mistake I made in the stage at some point. We must have been typing at the same time. Check the post right above your last.

Indoor, outdoor? Which stage? Failure to engage is sometimes a biggie. If it was the thursday match, it's very possible you failed to engage one of the targets on stage one. You wouldn't be the only one that day. Just looked up the match results. Yep, 2M 1PR. Failed to engage one of the targets gives you the 2 mikes and 1 procedural for not shooting at it. Not the easiest to score unless the RO is actually watching you shoot at the targets. On a memory stage like that it's easy to skip one. The RO has to be on the ball. I'm not a fan of memory stages. On that stage I had it broken down to just two shooting positions. Shoot everything you can see from position one (3 feet left of door), shooting right to left. Shoot everything you can see from the second position (2 feet right of door), shooting right to left. Then standing reload, again from position 2 shoot the left most 4 targets. I hate to do standing reloads but I would rather do that and hit 100% of the targets with 100% confidence in my plan. I had a severe jam on that stage, having a solid plan allowed me to clear jam and get back on plan.

Times. gotcha.

The higher up the chain you go, it all matters. Stage wins of less than 1 second are common. I don't think fast splits are irrelevant, if they are still good scoring hits. Faster is faster. Experience and gun type dictate the distance, not really the speed, of effective hammer shots. .11's and .12's are about as fast a I've recorded. All iron sight guns. On video, an .11 split will sound like one shot with an echo.

Referring to GM classification? There have been other GM's that have posted. Next update, there will be one more.

http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=%2F&gl=US#/watch?v=5zcATnVBzLw This may work, the link is from my mobile. Same TN match. Several stages had some solid splits. 2.20 second into it is my favorite, A zones only showing and my splits were the fastest on those two targets. The key is to know when you can turn it up. More importantly, when you can't.

It looks like tha Armson OEG concept, just in miniture. http://www.armsonusa.com/armsonoeg.html Not sure how fast it would be. The first picture, Glock with no sights, is actually the FASTEST combat sight. Put the square in front of your face and start pullin'!

No need to buy the RAM. Search for "M&P trigger reset", or search in my posts. I've already posted a diagram of how to bend your trigger bar "just" enough to get a nice tactile reset. There is no reset feel until you tune it.

Reposting, as this is THE answer. 1/8" all the way around the magazine, that means 1/4 inch total. You can't go too much in the rear because of the hammer spring plug. But you can take quite a bit off the sides and front and still be under the 1/8" limit. Pics needed....Corey....LOL

There is no reason to reduce the pretravel for a Production legal M&P. There is so little room available that it's not worth it. You can't defeat any safety (trigger safety), and you can't modify it externally (trigger safety). Therefore if you move the static position of the trigger back (reducing pretravel enough to matter), it's no longer production legal. This has been discussed at length via Glock Shooters trying to do the same thing. You can reduce the reset length, increase the reset feel, and of course reduce the weight of it. If you don't have a large sear plunger and spring, get it done. RAM is unecessary for reset feel, can be done with the trigger bar. The M&P I was using was down to 1.75# with a very short reset. I was lighter (and better feel) than my 2011 trigger, it just had longer pretravel. Very very easy to shoot. Kind of miss it....had to send it back to Bobby since it was his.

I've had splits that sounded like a double. I can't do it on command though. The less I think about it, the softer my strong hand grip is, the easier it is to shoot fast. The last "double" I had on a target we actually looked at the timer and it was a .12. I've done with my 2011, 1911 and M&P. You can see the M&P action by watching my Alabama match (youtube link below). Last stage has the fastest split of the match. You'll have to go back a few months to find the Alabama match. I can't access it right now to post a direct link.

With the extractor out, you'll see the raised pad the sits against the slide (inside the extractor cut). I take some material off that (not much). The hook of the extractor will sit a little more inboard and hold the case better. I did that, and reshaped the hook. Yeah, I can't believe they work out of the box either.

Get a current generation striker assembly, slide release, extractor and a trigger spring. I've heard locking blocks can let go (like Glocks) but it's not common. If the extractor has not been tuned, it's a ticking time bomb. Eventually it will stop working 100%. Get a spare, tune both. If your pistol has a solid extractor pin, replace it with a roll pin. Current guns come with a roll pin now.

I dig the green Utili-Kilt, or is that a dress? Or is there a difference?

I'd love to find a .40 Link less FS. eta: found one.

That situation leads to cracked bushings and badly damaged springs. A compressed spring that is too long will try to shove the barrel bushing out the front of the slide. The spring plug area of the slide is what stops the slide against the frame, with the base of the guide rod sandwiched between the two. Where this slide cracked is the most predictable point of failure. Sub standard metal, or casting if it was cast.

Thanks for the link. That was fun to read. Dual extractors for a multi-caliber slide. I like the idea of the linkless set up. OP: How does it shoot?