JohnGaultsGun

My best was 5 of 5 with a Taurus .38 spur-less revolver using factory ammo. The target was a steel IPSC target at 330 yards. The caveat to this was it took about 15 - 20 rounds to get dialed in.

I add more slide glide, then wipe down the gun. Maybe run a bore snake through the barrel. Detail strip the gun when things start to malfunction or before a major match. Occasionally I'll notice a broken part that was formerly held together with a rock hard carbon/moly/slideglide/oil mixture. Then I replace it.

I am not sure if this is a state thing but water heaters have changed ... A LOT ... at least in California. 8 years ago it cost less than $400 to replace a WH which included installation and removal (I saved my invoice). Now it's between $1000 to $2400 (which were my quotes earlier this year). So, I called 2 plumber wholesale supply shops and the cheapest same brand replacement with same capacity and insulation was $500 (no installation). Every plumber and supply guy I asked said the same story: state and federal laws have changed the way WH are made to be more eco friendly (higher cost) and lower quality. In other words, they just dont make them like they used to. :(

Wow. Great control and no wasted movement. The question I have for myself is "Where did I loose 4 seconds on that stage?!?!?" But then again, 2nd & 3rd place guys were about 1 & 2 seconds behind respectively.

I use it and like it. It doesn't have the striker-break feeling to it but the pull weight is heavy enough for me to see if I'm pulling a shoot on something during dry fire. I have a dedicated frame I use for dry-fire with this kit installed. For me, it's close enough.

Try removing enough grip tape to allow the gun to move during your reloads. I shoot a glock and I have grip tape on the sides and backstrap. I do not have tape on the front strap. This allows the gun to slide a bit for reloads. Also, the grit of the tape allows me to have good grip. Some guys like to have a very course grit (enough to take off skin ;-) ) thinking it will make up for poor technique. The gun needs to be able to move around in the hand so you can make minor adjustments before reaching full index. You're not always going to be in a position to draw your gun and get a great grip as soon as you touch it so you have to give yourself some room to make adjustments as you are going to target.

Seems to me this is all related to trigger control. Until you can master the trigger control at the splits you want to achieve, you will keep on missing. Also, your front sight should be telling you this as well. Possible solutions: 1) Bill drills 2) Dry fire, Dry fire, Dry fire. You may even see your sights move to the spot your missing to. 3) Giving yourself the patience to allow this to work.

Erik, I dont see it advertised on the US Optics site yet. Do you know what the MSRP will be?

How about using lighter loads? Winchester AA Lite Target loads work very well. The only thing you have to do is replace the recoil spring with the wolff reduced power one.

Seems to be a chronic problem when replacing sights on a G34. I use the Dawson .300" tall front sight. I think they also make a .315" as well. Just be sure your holster can take a sight that tall otherwise there will be plenty of plastic shavings on the sight after you draw the gun.

99% of the time its because of an extended slide release. Either change you grip or go back to the standard slide release and your problem should go away.

Here is a good start http://www.doublealpha.biz/courses-tips/coaching-clips/

If you can notice a positive difference between stock and the new recoil spring then by all means put it in. The stock or ISMI spring will last a very long time. I use a wolff 12 lbs recoil spring because the timing works better for me and I can see a noticeable reduction in muzzle flip. But I have to change my spring out at least 3 times a year. My load hits 132 PF using 147g MG CMJ behind 3.7g of N320.

The good thing about using progrip is that it helps to minimize slippage between your hands between shots. That translates to more consistent shooting and allows for better shot calling. It may or may not help you ... and is not the end all, be all for better shooting. For me, index and trigger control were good. But I found my hands slipping/moving on hot days, during long shot strings (4+ rounds in an array). And this was a distraction during my course of fire. After using Progrip, the distraction went away. I'd spend the $8 and see if it helps. You'll loose very little or could gain a lot.

I would consider getting a lighter trigger for your Glock if you do not already have one. This will reduce the trigger control issue you have. Be sure to place you finger on the bottom portion of the trigger when you squeeze it. Remember that a Glock trigger is essentially a lever and the further out you are from the fulcrum the lighter the pull will be. But I do think your problem is flinching ... especially when the bullets are hitting more than 12" below point of aim.

Small rifle primers are definitely harder than small pistol. Not to bad when you're shooting a 1911 type pistol. On striker fired pistols (read Glocks in particular) you will have lots of problems. More so if you have lighted the trigger pull by most means.

Try looking at baseball cleats. Stay away from the ones with any metal spikes or hard plastic ones. I prefer the hard rubberized cleat bottoms. Should get about 1-2 years out of them assuming you shoot every weekend. Nike or Underarmor.

Try making it so that it doesn't suck as much. 10 minutes ... tops ... use clock timer. Do it once a day every day leading up to your next pistol match the week before the match. If "all of a sudden" your match scores improve, then you've found some motivation to move up to "A" class. BUUUUT, make sure your short/simple dryfire routine is a good one. One session do draws. Another on target transitions. Another on reloads. Another on position set up and egress.

Until glock comes out with a weighted base pad (and they dont) they are illegal. Everything on the mag has to be factory spec (except for follower and spring I think).

Mike and Scott, Great meeting you both at the match and seeing other Rudy guys out there keeping up the good 3Gun fight. Well, at least 2 of the 3 Maybe next time my luck will be better and I'll have 2 working legs for the whole match instead of one Gary

I've only seen this type of scoring at non-USPSA matches (aka "tactical matches"). However, if I did see it, I would put it in the same category where shooting sub-major (limited/open) and sub-minor (production) ammunition is justified because it's a "local match" implying that scoring doesn't matter.

It's all in the sights. If you're missing your shots, your not letting the sights tell you when to break the shots. If it is taking you 1 second to notice your sights before your next shot, then so be it. You have found your natural "speed". Pushing it beyond that will give you the poor results you already expect. The more you practice shooting at your normal natural speed, the more you will reduce that time (notice I did not say "shoot faster" ...). That said, do push yourself by doing drills already mentioned (bill drills and such). See what happens when you "go faster" or "hurry up". Then back off and shoot your natural speed and review the results. You'll find that natural speed will give you your better results more consistently.

I shoot thousands of BC each year. My overall take is that it is not that bad. I have had issues with powder combinations with BC bullets. For example, with my 9mm 125g RN, if I use TiteGroup, there is a very hard buildup that forms in the throat. After 100 rounds, I have to scrub the barrel with a brush and solvent otherwise my load wont chamber and the slide wont go into battery. If I use Universal Clays, problem goes away. I'm reminded of this problem because I still have about 2K left loaded with TiteGroup that I use only for practice. Otherwise, 99.9% success rate.

Guys shooting high-power/service rifles use something similar to this: http://www.creedmoorsports.com/store/home.php?cat=355 The wheels are large enough for gravel and I like the option for spotting scope attachments.

Yep. These are the ones I use. Compared to the Remington managed/reduced recoil slugs, these feel lighter in my benelli.