JohnGaultsGun

You may want to remove and inspect your mag release button and/or mag release spring. If you had a non-OEM slide stop, it's not a stretch to find other parts may be non-OEM as well. Those parts are cheap and easily replaced.

Safariland makes great pouches and holsters. I use both 771 and 773s (each on different rigs of course). Makes for very smooth reloads. Use the spacers to move the pouches further away from the belt if you need more room. As far as the holster goes, I use the 5188. The holster has more "spring" or "give" to it than the bladetech. Makes for a more positive & quicker draw for me. Also, if you use a glock with a dawson sight (like me), you dont get that front sight scraping the holster on the way out as I've had with the bladetech. In some cases I had to vacume the plastic shavings off the floor after a long dry fire session. If you use a different sight, hopefully this problem doesnt exist.

Use a fan. BTW, hows the accuracy on your airsoft? Have you measured your grouping at any given distance?

I'm for Vegas again. Apres-shooting is fantastic. Hot dusty windy desert is just like home (Norco Run N Gun). Aside from that, ohhhh the buffets ... lots and lots of buffets (drooling now).

Way to go Glocks! I wonder if it could be that what ever gun is most familiar at the time of the Nationals determines the gun to use? For example, for some reason, it takes me longer than most to adjust back to shooting a 2011/1911 coming from a glock (couple of weeks). Some guys can do it immediately. I can't. That's the primary reason I decided to shoot a G35 (instead of my STI) in L-10 last week after shooting Production with a G34.

I will add that you should get Benos's book. Also Steve Anderson's Refinement & Repetition book. Between the two, they will introduce you to some additional concepts (and the practice drills) that will hopefully improve your skill. Familiarize yourself with these before reinforcing bad habits with poor practice sessions. It will save you time and $$$$ in the long run.

Only after shooting the Open/Prod Nationals, I realized that this was an "aiming" match. Hard lesson learned.

I recently got a U die from EGW (the last month). I also noticed a ridge on my brass cases but it was not bad enough to cause a problem with cycling in my glock barrel. Maybe I should call Lee as well. Is it the main number on their website?

I use them in my STI and in my G35. Great prices. Careful of your velocity. If you notice them starting to tumble and/or lots of lead in your barrel, reduce your charge.

Hey Jeff, Thanks for posting the pic! It was great shooting with all of you. This was truly one of the best squads I've had the pleasure to shoot with. Fun and laughter despite the 100+ degree temps.

I tried the fix earlier mentioned in http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...37&hl=brass The groupings did get better. Still a lot of fliers but definitely better than before. I did get 1" groupings at 12 feet but groupings like that are not consistent. This will work for now. I'll look into a new, tighter barrel later. Thanks.

There is no power factor for GSSF. However, you DO need to knock down the steel. If you shoot USPSA and have a Production load, use that load. You're guaranteed to knock down the steel. At my range, the GSSF match is held on the same day as the USPSA match. So, I shoot the local match with a G17 and then walk next door to shoot GSSF. Now, you can shoot whatever ammo you want to shoot out of your glock. HOWEVER, the armorer may tell you the warranty is void because you are using loaded/remanufactured ammo. You CAN use fiber optic front sights as well now. I think last year was the first year you could do that but I'm not 100% sure. I recommend taking advantage of that one. Hope this helps.

It's been my experience that either you'll be in heaven or hell with the Marvel. Every Open class guy I've spoken to about their Marvel absolutely loved it. No problems. Every Limited class guy I've spoken to that got one (I was talking into a mirror for this one) has had problems. None of the open guys had the limited version, so I purchased a Marvel for my STI wide body based on the success of the open model. To make a long story short, out of the 9 brands of the most common .22 ammo I could find in my local guns stores, only 1 brand worked. CCI Stingers at $8.00 per 50 rounds! Even the recommended brand (I think it was CCI Mini-Mags) did not work. Eventually I had to send it back for "fixing". After that, only 2 brands worked. CCI Stingers and now my favorite Wally World federal value pack at $14 per 550 rounds. Also, the mags are a bit tricky to tune. I spent a long time at the range trying to figure out if it was the conversion kit or the magazine causing the failures. In my case it was both. One fix was to remove the ejector because it interfered with the marvel magazine being inserted. This was OK for me because I had an extra 2011 lower assembly I could dedicate for this. Now, all this said, the set up now runs without a problem. I can run through a couple boxes before any malfunction occurs and that's due mainly to being dirty. Hope this helps.

Our local weekly club match had a lot of shooters show up last weekend (91 shooters). Only 14 were in Prod, 41 in Open, 25 in Limited. No GMs in Prod. 1 GM in Limited. 5 GMs in Open. So, I'm not sure if it's just a local thing. It's just the way it is. With only 49 GMs in Prod, that's less than 1 GM per state. Slim pickins' if you ask me compared to other divisions. It does make it more difficult to move up on Prod with no one to follow.

What manufacturer of BBs do you use? Just passing on what I've read, and that you may already know, but I understand that AS pistols can be picky when it comes to ammo in the same way that pellet guns and .22's can be - great with one brand, no so hot with another, with "quality" ammunition not necessarily always providing the best performance. eta: See Duane's post #17 here, on a fix he tried. It worked pretty well on my HSC Glock.: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...37&hl=brass Hey, thanks. I read it. I'll give it a try.

What manufacturer of BBs do you use?

Anyone have accuracy problems with Airsoft Glocks? I got airsoft pistols to practice steel because that is my main achilles heel. To my surprise, they were not as accurate as I had hoped. I had purchased some nice scaled down IPSC steel targets and set up some simple drills in my garage. I noticed at 10-15 feet, my BBs were completely missing the plates and poppers. So, I set up some paper targets at the same distance to see what grouping sizes I could get. At 12 feet, the spread averaged 4-5 inches. So, I cleaned the barrel and adjusted the hopper and after some time, the average group size went down to 3-4 inches. Not much improvement. I'm using .20g and .25g BB with no difference between them. This problem has been occuring in BOTH my KSC and KWA glocks. Should I replace the barrel and/or hopper with aftermarket improvements? Should I reset my expectations? Thanks.

Speed up man. I get 900 an hour without a bullet feeder! Matt, you think this will work with moly coated lead bullets?

I use the RCBS swager for the nasty WCC headstamped cases. It basically quadruples my reloading time because i have to decap the case in a single stage press and then swage it ... almost negating the benefits of using a progressive press, right? It's faster and MUCH easier to sort your brass and remove the WCC or whatever stamp is causing the problem. Then trade it for brass with a good head stamp. I dont believe the Dillon swager will be that much better. We're only talking about 9mm!

For 3 gun your optic should have a true 1x or 1.5x (like the Accupoint) so you can keep both eyes open while shooting. The reason being that in many 3 gun matches, rifle stages (or combo stages) are set up with close engagements (75 yards or less). That is usually the majority of your rifle shooting and many of your points gained. The reticle should also have the ability of being illuminated some how AND visible within full sunlight. Sometimes the illumination is hard to see during the day. For that reason, I dont look at any scope above 1.5x at the low end adjustment. Fixed power is a different story. Like speargun says, look at the accupoint and acog by trijicon. Or Meopta. Or Valdada. Or Leopold. Something in the range of 1x - 5x variable. Or 3x fixed power

For me it depends on the match: 200 yards: If the max distance is under 300 yards, then I set dope at 200 yards. Depending on velocity, POA = POI out to 200 yards. Then at 300 yards, I place the reticle at the top of a 10" plate. 350 yards: If the distance is out to 400, then I set dope at 350. Again, I put the reticle at the top of a 10" plate to hit the 400 yard target. However, I know all of my hold over/unders at 50 yard increments from muzzle to 400 yards. I dont do much shooting past 450 yards out here on the LEFT coast ;-)

For short range (100 yds or less) I use 23g of Win748 behind any cheap 55g bullet. I've done some testing with this load and compared it to winchester 55g factory (isrealie made), American Eagle 55g, and Rem Umc 55g. Before and up to 75 yards, there was at most a 1/2" difference between 10 - 75 yards. From 75 - 100 yards, they spread out but no more than 1.25". So, for my short range 3gun load, that is what I use out to 100 yds. I use a JP rifle with a 16" lightweight barrel and have been able to hit those annoying 6" tall poppers at 50 yards that some of the 3gun stage designers like to put out. Past 100 yds, I use factory Black Hills 69g (blue box).

Yeah, I case gauged all my loads. I had a total of 4 failures and gauged the cartridges after each failure. They fit perfectly in the gauge but would not fit in the chamber. The build up was so bad that I was having to force the cartridge out of the chamber ... this after 150 rounds. Our local matches run 150-175 rounds so I'd have to clean out my barrel sometime during the match ... its easier to swap out bullets. The up side to this is that I determined that my MagTech primers will only work with an OEM glock stricker spring. But this is for a different thread ;-)

I tested a new batch of reloads today. Bear Creek 125g RN, 3.9g of Univ Clays, Roal: 1.120. Barrel bore was clean, bright and shiny. After 120 rounds the 1st failure to chamber occurred. Lots of crud build up. So, unless I strip and clean my glock in between stages, it's time to change bullets. My buddy will be lending me his KKM G34 barrel to try out and see if the same thing happens but I'm not holding my breath.

It was easy for me ... until I had to pull the trigger. All bets were off after that.