GMP

I have a 507C on my P09 but on a Neumount frame mount as I'm not doing CO, so no point in subjecting the optic to needless abuse on the slide. Its a work in progress toward an open minor gun for local steel matches. So far so good, I love the sight as you always seem to easily pick up part of the circle as it returns.

Easy, same hole pattern as Trijicon RMR.

Try the Precisions, the coating is a lot different. No smoke or lead fouling compared to typical Hitech coatings, same load otherwise. My friend videoed me shooting both Precision and Brazos and its very obvious. The coating seems to contain a moly lube that makes the barrel appear to be dirty but it wipes out super easy and the lands are clean. I never loaded them major but judging by minor performance I'd try it for sure.

It should be more effective with lighter loads than a big five port comp. Smaller port area, so for the same amount of gas a higher velocity of gas. Plus, your attempting to tame relatively light loads just a bit more, not flatten a major gun, so whats expected of the comp is a lot less. Also will depend on your loads of course, should be more effective with a somewhat slower powder load than a typical fast powder used at the same PF. I find it an interesting experiment. I'll get mine in the near future (Primary Machine) and work it out. I'm doing other mods to the gun before that and the comp will be last.

Then try a smaller two port comp. I'm doing the same but on a P09 I'm building for steel. I had asked in another thread if anyone had experience developing loads for this purpose with a two port comp. Question is, in your case especially with the heavier steel gun, how much flatter can the gun be made to shoot than with typical sub minor steel loads? If we are talking about knockdown steel where its usually more like minor anyway, how high do you have to go above minor with a 2 port comp to "break even", and what is the sweet spot in PF. I suspect it will be more of a noticeable change with the poly frame P09.

These are the new profile Precision Bullets flat points. They plunk all the way out at 1.150 in my CZ S2. I like a bit more bullet in the case for best accuracy, so,load at 1.120". The 147s I load at 1.140". I use my CZ barrels for QC not a gauge. Zero failures.

I also find 3.8g Sport Pistol the sweet spot with 125g Precisions @ 1.120" in my Shadow 2.

You can solve the "bounce back" issue by slipping a piece of plastic tubing over the bullet and case, long enough to just about touch the inside base of the hammer. Common 1/2" OD / 3/8' ID poly tubing from Home Depot works with my FA kinetic puller. This slows and traps the bullet from flying around inside and nicking the coating/lead at the base.

Thanks for the replies. Dave33,. I've seen your posts here and on CZ Forums and its in part what motivated me. The gun is very accurate now and is fully Cajunized . Also has a frame mounted Holosun 507C. Interesting what you did to your grip,. I have the same opinion I guess as I'm building it up as well in the same area. I'm layering pieces of skate tape. When it's to my liking I'll measure it and then do it in Silicon Carbide. The big job will be the SAO conversion and removal of the take up in SA. Zzt,. Yes I know it's not a full race comp with 5 ports. I'm familiar with that. I have no expectations of this being a real open gun, it's just for fun in steel matches. What you suggest is what I figured. Something just over minor with a slower powder than typical used for minor. I was asking if anyone has been down this road of load development for the small 2 port comps. Thanks again.

So I'm building a CZ P09 into a quasi open gun to use in local knockdown and steel challenge matches where PF is N/A. Also because I just like to build and mod things. Planning on a PM threaded barrel and comp to finish it off. My question to you guys with experience loading for the small 2 port comps is what is the sweet spot? That is the point of peak effectiveness of the comp and/or minimal muzzle flip of the gun, while providing good accuracy of course? I imagine something a bit over minor with a slower powder than Sport Pistol which I use for my minor loads now. I have a couple lbs of both Power Pistol and BE86. Not slow enough for a real open major/big comp load I know but maybe in the ballpark for this application? Thanks.

Mine was a big difference in fit on a new gun. You could see the end of the barrel move in the stock bushing. That's what motivated me to install the CGW part with the other upgrades, it would be half ass not too.

I shot a lot of S&B in the past, bought cases from TargetSports. It is a little on the warm side. Also cheap, pretty clean, and accurate. Only issue is harder primers and potential light strikes with some guns, mainly tuned striker guns. It would probably be great in a gun with a small comp.

I have med/small hands and would not want it any smaller. I'm using some flat G10 grips with a layer of epoxy and silicon carbide. I have just enough room for my support hand to make proper contact. Might even add another layer on the rear half of the left panel. In any case I haven't handled anything in a similar steel frame gun that was smaller. Forget about 2011s.

Walther SF has a short grip, but fatter IMO than my S2. I handled a TSO last weekend and man that gun fits me perfect, but again the frame is slightly bigger than an S2. Funny though i always thought the S2 felt smaller than the older Shadow or 75s due to the more aggressive cut.

If you want a nice gun why not just get a std. Shadow 2 and swap a few springs? A few more parts and some polishing get you at Orange level, I've done it. I know a good Production Master with the same gun set up the same way, so it will take you (and me, first year, D) a long way.

Difficulty fitting the safety with mismatched sides is one thing, the slide dragging on something not obvious is another. Seems to me that once the safety set is installed, no matter how snug the fit in the right side lever(mismatched), the sear cage should then be aligned. In my experience, anything other than a moderate press to snap the parts together meant the detent plunger was not retracted. This could give you the impression that the interference was the fit of the shaft into the right side lever, when in fact the plunger was interfering. Excessive force is never required and may have jarred it loose. Between dirt and grease you may not even see if its in its track properly, tiny part. BTW only the left side uses a spring, not the right. Tiny as well, and the safety works better (less likely to accidentally activate) with a stiffer one.

Absolutely. Plus, elasticity of the brass with different headstamps varies as well, depends what he is using. What is perfect expansion/tension with Federal, Blazer, Speer brass may be loose with GFL, S&B, some Win.

Are you sure you didn't displace one of the small safety detent plungers that fit in the frame? Easy to do and would cause all kinds of problems if floating around.

It happens with Sport Pistol too, in all the brands you mentioned. Precision 125 or 147 in .358 is the answer for CZs, no lead and the profile allows you to load long.

Brazos 125g TCs were accurate but leaded my barrels, and yes had to be loaded short @ 1.030". I even tried a sample pack of .359" dia with the same results. Gave up. Been having good luck with the Precisions, accurate and clean. A few bucks more than the Brazos but no scrubbing lead from barrels. Just ordered 3500.

I too have an LNL, but I decap dirty brass on a single stage before going into the FART with Brass Juice. After that its all on the LNL. It sounds to me like your not fully sizing the case. That die has to go down to the shell plate. I don't know about the Lee sizing die but I had trouble with the Lee universal flare die adjusting low enough with the NOE expander, I had to modify the die body (taper the end) so it would fit in the recess of the shell plate. Also, the Lee is a bit short on threads for adjustment in the LNL with the collet system. I much prefer the Hornady dies. LNL is sloppy out of the box but runs great when tuned by shimming out the play in a few spots. I would get another sizing die or do whatever to be sure your fully sizing that case, readjust your other dies, and take it from there.

The spot on the case that you indicated in the photo is way lower than the base of any bullet would seat. What do you mean by "maxed out"? Sizing die should be just off the shell plate. When you say gauge before loading, do you load on a single stage? If your loading long 147g .357 lead coated with minimal expansion you may have swagging issues as well.

I was thinking the same as radny97 possibly, or maybe the freebore is tight in that test barrel. Do the same rounds fail in the actual gun barrel you will shoot them in? If we are strictly talking about bullet / land contact then logically it has to be either your bullets (QC) or your process that changed since you had successful results. Brass is another matter and perhaps there are two overlapping issues. That contact near the base is usually a sizing issue. What might make sense here is a simple loose adjustment that is preventing the shell plate from moving high enough. That could cause everything: unsized base of brass, too long of an OAl, and undercrimp or not enough flare removal.

So am I correct in understanding that you just did the sharpie test and found the ink scratched off the bullets, not the brass?

I just don't get how a reduction in .040" does not fix a true OAL issue, providing the original plunk test and OAL setting was good, unless the profile was changed. My best guess, from some experience, is that you are pushing the long bullet deep in the case, slightly bulging it, causing your tight chamber fit. Can also happen with pushing an expander deep, which at least won't swage down a bullet. I don't know the specs of the Lee expander but I doubt its too long. It can happen with various headstamps. Does it happen with good Federal, Blazer, Speer brass ? They always chamber and look the smoothest when loaded. I use an NOE expander that I custom cut for seating depth so I don't swage the .358 bullets down. Some brass I just can't use. Other stuff is borderline, like GFL. The American brass is no problem. Guns are different too of course. My CZs have a short lead but generous chamber, while my Beretta has a generous leade and tighter chamber, so rounds that will plunk in a CZ may hang in the Beretta barrel long before they are close to the leade. Paint some problem rounds with a sharpie, chamber them and spin them around a bit. That should tell the story.