GMP

I ended up trying some cheap multi-mag holders off Amazon, with molded in leaf springs like the Ghost. Removed one spring and a little material removal with a dremel and they work pretty well. SMG and P09 mags now fit great, Shadow 2 mags a little loose but workable and adding magnets would solve that. I didn't want to blow $30 - $37 on a single mag pouch just yet.

Its fine graphite and a solvent carrier, like black paint, but who cares on the inside of the comp. Looks just like very light carbon coating after a few hundred rounds, no thick buildup. Spray it on and then wipe off any on the outside of the comp with a rag and solvent before the carrier evaporates. It will stick to/stain surfaces it drips on if it dries but that's what you want.

PB Graphite Dry Lube spray from Home depot has worked well so far, starting with a completely clean comp. A couple matches and a few range trips, no buildup.

I wet tumble decapped brass, dry, and use dry Teflon lube for sizing/loading. I spray a coating of Blaster dry Teflon lube (Home Depot) in the bottom of a plastic shoe box and let the carrier dry. Toss in a couple hundred cases and shake for 10 seconds or so. Cases take on a dusting and everything runs smooth. If any small amount gets into cases it has no ill effect I can tell after many thousands of rounds. I toss a completed 100 rnds at a time on a old shirt or towel, fold it over and rub off anything remaining for a few seconds. No mess and ammo runs smooth as silk.

There was a lot of Norma factory being sold last year, so brass to be picked up at the range and matches along with other stuff. I decap first as a separate process on a dedicated press before wet tumble. This lets me weed out bad brass immediately. Only throw the lever with a light two finger touch, it will stop on a Norma case or any case with an obstruction. They go in a bucket for when I get a smaller dia pin. Likewise for MIL brass, they need a harder pull and go in a container for crimp removal.

Yeah your right I understand all that now. Being my first PCC I did not think that the timing was such to blow the mass of the bolt back so fast. I don't care about dirty cases, just something I noticed. Wasn't sure I'd like this PCC thing so $3K + for a JP5 was a non-starter. For what I'm doing for now its fine, and way more reliable than more than half of what I see out there. I bought rather than built this time to avoid those pitfalls, and just shoot.

I thought this might be the case, makes perfect sense, thanks. This is not a problem just something I noticed. The gun runs good for the money and is totally reliable after 400 or so rounds so far. I'm running the Kynshot heavy damped buffer with the AR10 carbine (orange) spring, so its a fair bit stiffer than stock. I RO at matches and see a good amount of PCC malfunctions, mostly with home builds.

RMR 124g FMJ 4.2g Sport Pistol Federal primers in Mixed range brass OAL 1.110” Same go to load I’ve been running in my CZs for a few years now, accurate, good feel, and clean. Got a Springfield Saint 9mm PCC, set up with a different comp, Kynshot buffer, JP trigger springs and a little polish work. Runs 100%, accurate, and reasonable recoil impulse for the investment. Only odd thing I notice is my cases are sooty and the gun runs generally dirtier than my pistols. Ejection is fine and the gun locks back consistently. Only thing I can think of is with the relatively fast powder the pressure drops in the long barrel enough to break the case seal to the chamber. Thoughts?

Does anyone know of a mag holder that will hold both CZ75 / CZP09 and Colt SMG mags without adjustment? I shoot either a Shadow 2 or P09 and now a SA Saint Victor in PCC. This is mostly in club knockdown steel matches but there is movement and reloading, also USPSA. I have the Black Scorpion holders I use between my S2 and P09 but even those slightly different mags require adjustment and that’s a PIA shooting both guns. Something spring loaded seems like it would work. I’m in a 10 rnd state so no worries of holding big sticks, thanks.

Honestly I have never used JB Weld on brass grips, but on many other things much more critical, oil immersed, and subjected to heat with no problems. I do use it for silicon carbide on G10 grips and polymer frames. Brass grips should be no problem. Prep is everything. Clean with brush, soap and water. Then acetone or brake cleaner. JB Weld will stick fine.

Yeah they are not for the soft of hand! I do the same grit, but use the original slow cure JB Weld. It self levels to the point of eliminating any variation in thickness as applied, but will not run. I block the screw holes and mask the backs. I use a long strip of masking tape, doubled over a couple inches on each side, gives you a good way to hole the panels during the process. Apply the epoxy for full coverage but as thin as possible. Roll gently in a Tupperware of the #36 grit, shake off excess. When they start to cure a little I carefully scrape the edges square with a razor blade, remove the hole plugs, and clean the hole edges. Detail when fully cured. Yes, you have to account for a little extra thickness so if starting with G10s you need to sand them down about half way through the pattern to retain the approx starting girth. To go thicker just build another layer. If you don't like it, you can file / Dremel them down and do over. My S2 set are almost 4 years old and just now starting to develop a sharp edge near the rear of the support hand where some grit has been lost, easy to fix.

So I have a CZP09 I did a lot of work on I occasionally run in local knockdown matches that can be started in low ready position. I'd like to try this gun in Steel Challenge and possibly USPSA but do not want to buy a dedicated holster as I plan on a new TS2O in the near future. The P09 has a Toni frame weight, Holosun 507C, and Primary Machine comp(small 2 port). Does anyone know what holster may work, with adjustments of course, for both guns? Thanks.

I'll try this week. I've done several sets as well as the frame of a P09 I converted to a poor mans open gun for steel with an SAO conversion and small comp. To me, most stock guns are like eels in the summer, and even the Lok Bogies were not that great.

Been awhile since I've been on here but timely return. I had the exact same issue and wound up making custom thickness silicon carbide panels from a set of thin G10 panels. Easy, just built up the weak hand (left) panel with an extra layer of epoxy and grit. Just enough so I don't have to cam my hand in to far for full contact and allow best strength. My hands sweat really bad in summer and this has been the solution.

I deprime before tumble. That way I find all sorts of stuff, including loose and crimped primers. Loose gets the bin, crimped go in a can for cutting before cleaning.

My APX does this as well. Larger round pin/stryker face and clearance to the bore at the breech face. The brass flows back around the face of the pin.

These were my favorite coated. Size .358 shot very well in my CZs with very little leading. The coating to me seems to have a moly content and is a higher quality than the rest. I went back to jacketed because loading .358 had its own set of issues that added steps and slowed things down like some brass was a no go and even good stuff fussy about expander size. Plus they are only $12 per 1K cheaper than RMR FMJs or Matchwinners, which load in any brass without issue.

It sure seems closer to that than anything else.

Generally speaking it will take .2 to .3 grains more to match PF for jacketed over coated 124s with a powder like N320, Sport Pistol. Of course you must consult the data and test though.

My buddy shot a lot of factory Syntech and I’ve reloaded many brands of coated. Having cut, filed some Syntech bullets, I can tell you they are unique and no currently available coated is close. They use a VERY thick polymer type coating, almost like they are dipped in molten plastic not a thin spray paint. Think tool handle Plastidip vs. paint. The rifling engages this and the lead never comes close to the barrel. That’s why the guns stay so clean. They seem to be not quite as accurate as my jacked, plated, good coated loads but accurate enough. If I could get something like this for a decent price I’d try for sure. It would be interesting to see if they keep a comp clean. I got tired of coated quirks and went back to RMR jacketed, and plated for my open gun.

I pulled some old mil 9mm ammo recently. Had a bonding/sealing agent for waterproofing, made pulling tough and left a ring where the base was. I just ran a reamer down the case between my fingers, cleaned up and loaded fine. Didn’t care about the outside just wiped them.

Gave up on them over a year ago. Worst leading bullets I’ve tried, and I tried different profiles and diameters. I’m back to RMR jacketed.

That I know I have an S2 and a P09. Stopping hammer fall and holding it there normally sure. Question is on violent impact to the hammer.

Has it been verified that the gun was indeed decocked fully, hammer down? Has anyone ever tested, or have seen CZ data, for the integrity of the half cock notch?

Sport Pistol the go to but grabbed some AA#2 when it was in stock at Grafs