Wrecks

Comp Tac or Ghost if you want a whole rig.

Did you put it in a vice and test it properly?

Thin bogies are great for my stumpy not-allowed-to-play-the-saxophone-in-4th-grade-band hands I have the blue palmswells and the safety orange thin and I prefer the thin 100% of the time for the S2. On my AccuShadow I put the palmswells on and it evens out the width so it roughly matches the S2, so win-win

It's a very precise gun for the price.

To answer your question, no this 1200$ production race gun doesn't have the same precision as a 3500$ custom target pistol. What did you expect?

Glad everyone here stopped by to post pictures of their gun that isn't having a problem, very helpful for the OP who isn't able to go back in time and mill the slide deeper the first time around. To answer your question I have both the Henning and the Taran +4 basepads for the Mecgar AFC 17rd mags and the Henning is lighter by about 8 grams, so I don't think you're gonna cut weight that way. Unfortunately you picked one of the heftiest optics available, so that's not doing you any favors. My recommendation is drill some holes through the parts of your Lok grips that you don't interact with much to trim down a few grams and get under. If you still have the front post on go ahead and remove that too - you can keep the bushing set in place with a slave pin. If you're still not at weight then you should consider sending the slide off again to get milled for windows and then you'll have no problem making it.

It's probably fine but you should probably test it for a few hundred rounds just to be sure. Every gun is unique.

If you get a lighter main spring (mine is 11#) be sure to get the lighter firing pin spring and extended firing pin.

Different weight and velocity = different POI

You would be better served getting a TSO in 40 and putting a comp and the rail mount on it, then you'd be good to go and much more competitive. You also wouldn't have to risk safety trying to fire major 9mm loads from a standard p01 barrel.

Syntech 155g

There's multiple threads about this already but if you want to convert a Shadow 2 (47oz) to CO and be competitive, you will need a few things: 1. Slide milled for a dot - the lighter the dot the better (Sig Romeo 1, RMR, Shield etc). CGW and CZC both do this all the time. 2. G10 or carbon fiber grips (Lok, cool hand, etc.) 3. Polymer guide rod ( http://shop.cz-usa.com/ProductDetail/321841042004_Recoil-Spring-Guide-Shadow ) 4. Henning or TTI +4 basepads so you can load 21-23 rounds per mag If you do all this you will likely make weight. Here's my S2 converted for CO: Weighs in at 44.5oz with +4 basepads

Get the CGW S2 kit for 285 with the bushing and install it all yourself using instructions and YouTube videos so you can learn how your gun operates and put a few extra holes in your drywall along the way. It's the true CZ experience

If I remember correctly it was 140$ + shipping. Did not need to refinish as they blued the milled area and the rest of the frame was pristine when I got it back.

I don't know if that's like white lithium or something but that entire barrel looks way too worn out for just 1000 rounds. I have 5000+ through my S2 barrel and it still has only the slightest bit of witness marks on it. Something's not right there.

Has no effect.

I can tell you that from a bench rest, the stock bushing on my S2 was about 1.5" at 10 yards which is what I zero my red dot at. With the 10x it was less than 1" at the same distance. It's worth every penny to me for having the peace of mind knowing that it's dead on and no way to blame the equipment. Everyone who has used my S2 (only a few get to touch her) has said it's the most precise gun they've ever shot. Disclaimers: I used fiocchi 115g factory ammo and I did it at 10 yards because all my matches are indoors so I never have to shoot further and because trying to zero for 25 yards is a fool's errand without a vice and binoculars.

Yeah I put the buffer back in and instantly had better splits and less recoil.

I did it through CGW, fantastic service. We spoke on the phone a few times about the milling and they were incredibly helpful and really fast - the slide was gone for about 7 days from day I shipped to day it came back. Their other parts are fantastic quality and I think at this point my gun is Cajun enough to cook gumbo.

I can give you some of my experience as I started with a 320RX with the X5 frame and I now use a S2 in CO. The S2 is a better performing gun, hands down. Better accuracy, shoots flatter, feels better in my hand. The RX is much simpler and easier to maintain. But once you get it, you'll see the aftermarket scene is basically "you can have anything you want as long as it's GrayGuns". Now, I'm a tinkerer and I like to fine tune things, so being very simple and having few parts gets boring to me. If you're the type that just wants to the go to the range and sling lead and not do a bunch of upkeep and install upgrades, the X5 is gonna be for you. If you like to tune your guns, try different stuff out, put on colorful grips (aka play Gun Barbie), then a CZ or Glock is a better option. If I were to do it all again, I would have done my CO milling using my AccuShadow rather than my Shadow 2 as the S1 starts out at 42oz and the S2 is 47oz so you have to make compromises to make weight such as a polymer guide rod and lightweight grips whereas with the S1 I would be able to put more weight on in the grips and keep other heavy non moving parts. Also the S1 has a slightly thinner profile which I can grip just slightly more authoritatively but that's just my stumpy hands. That said I love my S2 with optic. You will probably be fine with either gun, comes down to personal preference.

Vortex Venom or Burris Fastfire 3 if you're on a stricter budget, Romeo 1 or DPP if you're willing to spend more, RMR if you want to eat canned beans for dinner for a couple months.

CGW is pretty good about putting written instructions in with their pieces, especially with the adjustable parts.

My Shadow 2 upgrades (I like to keep track of what's installed on my rig for easy reference later):

While we're on the topic, are you guys using the shock buffers on your guide rods? I got a polymer rod for my S2 to make weight for CO and I haven't put the buffer back on. I figured I'd try it with and without buffer to see how it feels and performs when I practice tomorrow but wanted to see what you all are doing.

Your impact is also heavily influenced by the ammo you're shooting. Probably shouldn't be 10-11" high at 15 yards unless you're testing with 115+p or something