Wrecks

Polymer guide rod is a necessity. Question will be if CZ thinks it's okay to weigh it with the standard 17 round mags with polymer pads, which would make making weight simple.

Ah, so you had a deeper dot cut and you shaved weight off the sight as well. Props to you, that's a pretty advanced method. Apologies if I came off incredulous. Maybe the CGW bushing and the cut profile they did on mine left a larger footprint.

This one: https://shop.cz-usa.com/ProductDetail/321841042004_Recoil-Spring-Guide-Shadow You sometimes have to guide it through the front hole on the slide when you're reassembling but once you get it through and put the slide stop back in it cycles 100% fine.

I'm not trying to drag you, if you did it I'm genuinely curious as I have the CGW red dot cut without a window and a Romeo 1 (which is one of the lightest you can get) and polymer guide rod and with Henning +4 basepads and standard 53g Lok grips it is 45.3oz.

So you're using Henning grips and the metal guide rod on your gun and it's 44.9? Mind posting a picture?

I'm sorry but you're wrong. I do not have the window cut and I have gone through the process and crunched the numbers. If you want to have 23rd mags, you have to make concessions elsewhere if you don't have a window cut. -TTI/Henning basepads (+weight) -Polymer guide rod (absolutely necessary) (-weight) -Reduced weight grips (absolutely necessary) (-weight) There's no additional fat to trim from the gun unless your plan is to remove semi-essential parts like the magazine wall. If you don't care about having the extended mags then it's a different story.

The standard Lok palm swells are 55g with the screws, the new lightweight palm swells are 38g with the screws. I can't tell you the weight of the Henning grips but the stock aluminum S2 grips are 60g with the screws. If you don't get an additional window cut on the slide, you cannot hope to make weight with the stock aluminum grips. Without a window cut, you have two options: Lok lightweight or Cool Hand carbon fiber.

I have one: -CGW milling (no window cut) -Romeo 1 -CGW bushing -SP01 long polymer guide rod -Cool Hand carbon fiber grips (41g) -Extended safety -Henning +4 and TTI +4 basepads -A ton of other stuff Comes in at 44.9oz I have the new hollowed out Lok grips arriving later this week which brings the grips down from 41g to 36g so I'll have a little more room to work with (and better grips!). In case anyone's wondering, the weight difference between the Henning and TTI is 2g (Henning is lighter).

My Shadow 2 with CGW bushing is a tack driver with one hole groups at 30' from bag rest My AccuShadow with CZC bushing is a tack driver with one hole groups at 30' from bag rest I hate when people say things like "it's more accurate than the shooter", but I would be very cautious of anyone who claims either one is notably more accurate at 25 yards, especially if their purported testing was done without a vice grip and a trigger pulling tool.

My dude have you never heard of GunBroker??

It would be inferior to the TSO as it lacks the mounting holes and thumbrest. You can just buy blue grips and magwell and be ahead of the game.

I just use fiocchi 115g, but I'm not super serious (yet). My wife would kill me if I got an ammo press installed in the laundry room...

Do it based on the typical furthest distance you would regularly shoot at a local match. My USPSA matches are done indoors and rarely have a target past 10 yards so there's no reason for me to zero it further. Also get an optic that sits low as possible on the slide so you have less delta. The RMR, Romeo 1, and Venom are some of the lowest profiles available.

My biggest recommendation is to go all in with embracing the dot. That means if your set up includes back up iron sights, specifically the front post, remove them completely. It's much easier to wean yourself off of lining up the irons if they're not there to begin with! Lots of people I have gone shooting with have gotten so accustomed to lining up the irons that they will go for an absolute co-witness and try to get the dot on to the front post before firing and it slows them down considerably and just adds more to the calculus. When you remove the posts, you take away the muscle memory of lining it up and focusing on the front post.

Idk I saw pictures of it and it looked cool so I ordered a Shadow 2 off GunBroker without ever handling a CZ of any kind, but never had any complaints about the balance...

Good Lord those DPPs are so dang tall...

After putting some lube on the CGW trigger pin, the action has smoothed significantly and I don't have the issue anymore.

No, I mean when the gun is fully decocked and the trigger is completely forward.

Hey all, had a question for you: On my 2018 Shadow 2, I'm noticing that the trigger has a bit of a "catch" when you initially begin to pull it from DA. Like, when you first start to pull it back, it will feel like it's locked in the forward position but then it will release and the rest of the pull is very smooth and responsive. It's not hard to get it to release, but you have to apply about 20% more pressure on the trigger to get it to start moving, but then it's fine once you do. Has anyone else had this? Is there a part that needs to be polished to get this to where it starts as smoothly as the rest of the pull? For reference I have: -stock trigger -stock disco -stock hammer/sear -CGW trigger pin and reduced trigger spring -CGW 13# main spring (fresh, no live rounds through it yet, but I also have the gold 15# spring and the stock spring and they do the same thing)

0.2mm of travel reset would be NASA space shuttle levels of tolerance, I doubt that's how it's measured.

AC/DC - Shoot To Thrill

It's the Disco, needs to be filed down a bit to fit your gun.

I highly recommend the Sig Sauer Romeo 1 as a great red dot that straddles the price between the Vortex and RMR/DPP. Really great sight, have one on my 320RX and my Shadow 2.