PhillySoldier

Im thinking it may be something like this but it seems like the primer punch is coming up too soon not late. I will try taking a part and cleaning though. I'll also try and see if I can take a small video of the problem if it persists.

I'll give that a go but my thoughts are (and I could be wrong) that everything is centered correctly when the handle is in the full upright position so Im not sure if its this.

I have the alignment tool that goes in the powder funnel and again at the end of the upstroke the primer punch and all brass stations are centered correctly. There may be something separate for aligning/adjusting the primer wheel (im guessing) but it almost seems as its more a timing issue in that the primer punch is coming up too soon before the shell plate opening passes the primer.

Ive removed the shell plate and blown out as much of the primer feed/assembly as I could with an air canister but no I have not disassembled any of the primer system yet. I wasnt sure exactly how; so I figued I'd ask first before attempting tonight.

Im having a problem with flipped primers on the 650. Running the press without brass I can actually see the primers hitting the left edge of the shell plate as the primer cup rises and the shell plate passes over it. At the end of the upstroke though, everything is centered and aligned properly. So I don’t think the shell plate or index block is out of alignment. If I pause in the middle of the upstroke the timing works out but that’s a workaround and not a solution. Can someone tell me how to correct this? Im wasting at least 2-3 primers per 10. Im assuming something in the primer assemble may need cleaning or aligning but Im not sure exactly what.

I just recently started using a secondary toolhead on my 650 for depriming/resizing. Ive only done 9mm so far. But I like that I can now lube the dirty brass, dump all in the case feeder, pre-process quickly then throw all the brass in the sonic for cleaning. Not only does this allow for me too clean the primer pockets (not absolutely necessary) but also takes care of cleaning the lube off without having to clean completed rounds. I do however keep my normal depriming/resizing die set up the same just in case something gets through that may not have been preprocessed. The already sized brass slides on through as if its still lubed.

I occasionally throw the whole toolhead including all the dies in the sonic. Works well but you have to double check that the die adjustments havent changed afterwards. Now I keep a separate toolhead (just depriming and flaring die) for case prep that I can lube all the brass, resize, deprime and bell. Throw all my dirty lubed brass in the case feeder, run through press quickly and afterwards throw the clean brass (and toolhead) in the sonic. This way I dont have lubed finished rounds to clean and the processing toolhead stays pretty clean and the brass doesnt stick and runs smoothly.

As already said the flipped primers is the RF100 and I can help with the adjustments if needed. The sideways problems is the press. I dont have a 1050 but on my 650 it usually means making sure the shell plate is tightened properly as well as indexing so that primer pin is coming up center and not hitting off the shell plate as it indexes. For the RF100 you there is an adapter screw underneath the top platform that holds that hollow plastic cup in place where the primers drop through to the tube. Start by adjusting that so that you can put a dime between the screw head and the platform. If the problem persists after that, you want to continue losening it 1/4 turn at a time.

I dont see it as much of a problem if you already have pre-existing bullets made that fit your specs. When changing bullet types; loosen the bullet seating die, put one of your existing bullets in and then tighten down till it fits the correctly measure bullet.

The external battery Labradar sells for $25 is on Amazon for $11.50 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A08K178/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As mentioned in one of the posts higher up, they used to have them available w a brass tip. A month or two back I was trying to track down the same thing. Not for regular use but just for the occasional checking after adjusting or changing primer types on the auto-filler. I tried about 3 different types of translucent tubing but none of them fitted just right and eventually I gave up.

I pull the whole toolhead and throw everything but the actual hopper in the sonic

Just to add a small tip. The speed control knob does not have any indicators to show how slow or fast you might have it set. Ive turned it to the lowest position and then striped the knob with a sharpie

The projectiles are not exact. They have slightly different weights and shapes to them. If you weigh a hundred of them, I bet ya wind up with a bunch of different weight groups. The dillion die is seating by o-give and not the tip of the bullet.

Awesome. If ya need help w the adjustments, Im available

Running bout 90 seconds on mine (currently) and thats if I actually watching it to shut off; so 90-120 seconds out of every 5-6 minutes is a good percentage of the time. I know its a personal pet peeve but between the ringing in my ears and the low background from the filler it drives my batty as well as deaf. Thats not to say I'll give it up (love mine) but i wish it was quieter

I dont have any problems running at the same time; though I do find the noise annoying.

Having been through different brands of primers as well as conversions i believe ive mastered tuning this w changes. There is the cup adapter where the primer drops through the hole. There is a set screw underneath that controls this. Start with it set at a dime between the screw head and bottom of the platform. If flipped primers continue then loosen a small increment at a time and retry until its resolved

Yeah when I was having my problem previously I went out and bough 2 hose clamps and 2 springs. I never did actually install them though since the cable tie fix resolved my problem.

I have a couple cable ties around the drop hose to make sure it isnt pulling and making the dropper stick. I havent had any problems with it since. I havent needed to try this but I do know one of the after market places now has a product available that looks to be an excellent fiv https://usa-shop.armanov.com/product/mr-bullet-feeder-dropper-assembly-solution-no-consistent-seating-problem/

I wish there was an aftermarket part for both the case and bullet feeders that let it drop like a 10-20 at a time instead of running w every darn press pull. Im no electronics genius but to me would a change from one switch to two. One at the bottom to start when its empty and the current one at the top to stop when filled

I agree about keeping clean. Also I have installed the crud catcher as well as drilled out the drain holes a little larger to drop through any debris that might get under the plate.

I used to have an issue with only being able to put 100-200 9mm casings in the case feeder at a time. Ive found that using a gauged torque wrench and setting it to 5 inch/pounds and using that to tighten the clutch seems to work perfect . I can press down on the plate and cause the clutch to slip like its supposed to and can now put up to 800 9mm casings in it at time. Figured I would post it in case it helps anyone else

Yeah shelves and the case feeder are definitely the problem. Thats why im trying to force the 30" counter tops. And yeah planning on getting everything in place before deciding where exactly the shelves w be mounted but everything "should" have enough room (barely) even at the worst points of it

Using a huskey toolbox currently for my workbench but getting ready to start a new bench build now. Spent 2 hours in lowes over the weekend picking out most of what I want. I have a 10' 6" x 40" cubby in the garage which will be my reloading area. Gotta start by ripping some sheet rock down to running some more electrical sockets and run the hose line up higher on the wall as well as painting the garage. For the reloading bench Ive picked what would be 5 cabinet bases that will run the length of that area. I want to do a 30" counter top of two layers of oak plywood as well as run two rows of shelves of the same wood. Gonna run 2x4 backing boards behind the cabinets to offset the larger counter tops a little. Im gonna have about 4" of top over hanging the cabinets which will make for sitting at the bench easy but also might make getting to the drawers a little difficult. That casefeeder takes up a lot of room though and I definitely want to be able to put shelves behind it for storage. The side 40" walls I'll do pegboard or some such afterwards for additional storage. Hoping to comfortably have 3 presses and work room when done. I keep going back and forth about whether or not to try the t-track system