PhillySoldier

^^^ this. Priority for me is accuracy. Of course id prefere the recoil being as light as possible but not at the expense of losing accuracy. Similar to the above im usually in the 131 to 138 power factor range but I'd go even hotter if the results showed better accuracy.

It is my understanding that the Sport Pistol was meant more for casted bullets. Can someone say how true that might be? I shoot mainly FMJ or JHP and wanted to see how it might compare to say Titegroup or Power Pistol.

How much does the type of bass used affect accuracy? Over the last month I’ve been doing some 9mm load testing; shooting 10 rnd groups @ 25 yards from a ransom rest. A couple weeks ago I happened to switch the brand of brass I was using (from starline to blazer brass) and saw a pretty large difference in my average shot group sizes. Avg sizes increased 0.8” from 1.3” to 2.1” so it was a pretty significant difference. Though without the rest I probably would’ve never noticed it and just chalked it up to my shooting being off. Last weekend I went back to the starline brass and the shot groups went back to previous averages. I gotta say I was pretty surprised at the difference. I always figured as long as I didn’t mix different brands of brass together, it shouldn’t make much of a difference. Now it has me wondering how much attention I need to start applying to pistol brass. Anyway I figured I would mention it to discuss with others. Now I have a crap load of blazer brass casing to get rid off grrrr

Looks like he was having a lot of problems over the last month. I ordered the new case stop on june 5th and it still hasnt shipped. I wasnt overly worried, ive seen him w the slow shipping in the past. I did however notice he was racking up the negative reviews for the last month and not just for the new product. Anyway as others have said he finally started replying and talking online as of Friday. I got my shipping notification on Saturday. A simple msg out to the online community that he was behind over the last month wouldve went a long way into calming so folks down. He isnt great w the communication though. I love his products and will continue to buy from him.

I was looking forward to work w the combo.

For those that like the primer stop switch, he is now selling a case feed stop switch too. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-XL-650-Case-Feed-Stop-Switch-/323283578821

I have this powder knob and it works very well but just ordered the titan easy dial. It appers to have more precision.

The hornady micrometer and 2in1 die arrived but didnt work. The threads match n it screws in but is to short for the 2in1 die and cant adjust the seating w it

https://www.ebay.com/p/Dillon-Primer-Stop-Switch-for-XL-650-SL-900/1538024197

Same and im usually doing some type of testing and color code the increments, so its easy to run a sharpie over the primers while they are in the gauge

I just ordered the hornady micrometer but havent received it yet. I may be wrong about this but from what Ive seen online it appears the die has the hashtag measurements but is just sort of a dial and not a clickable type incremental turn. I ordered the hornady micrometer stem to use with the hornady 2in1 crimp seating die. I know Redding has the micrometer stem but does anyone know if Redding has a 2in1 crimp seating die? Googling it only shows one page as having such and on that it only lists it actually being available for the 380 caliber. So Im left wondering if they actually sell this product or not

I recently learned just how much a difference this makes. Over the last few weeks Ive been working up a new load and ransom rest testing @ 25 yrds - 10 rnd shot groups. On my first testing of different powder weights I was super happy w the results and was avg 1.3" groups. Last weekend I went to fine tune it futher and test varying seating depths in 0.01" increments. Although my testing was consistent over 200 rounds my shot groups grew 0.5 to 0.75". When I considered the reason I realized that I was using different brass than my first test. I honestly didnt think it would make much of a difference as long as I wasnt mixing different brands of brass together. In my first test I had used all starline brass and in my second test I had used all blazer brass. Ransom rest testing is pretty tedious and long. Takes me at least an hour to set up, get on target, fire 20 settling shots etc and thats not counting hauling probably at least 70 lbs of gear around and testing being at least a 5 hour day for me since I have to run and change targets after every 10 shots or play with re-positioning the whole rest to a new target. Anyway now im just ranting about having to repeat the whole test all because I switched brands in brass. I guess its a good thing but most of the things ive learned from the ransom rest testing so far are all things ive wouldve chalked up to my shooting skills or an off day etc in the past

Love my shockbottle but for as much as it costs, Im kinda surprised it only checks headspace and doesnt match the OAL 1.169" saami specs like a normal case gauge would. It gets annoying that if left flat on top of the table the rounds will stay pushed above the top until you suspend it in the air.

I recently did some ransom rest testing of different brands of 9mm factory ammo. No surprise that your expensive match grade brands like Atlanta Arms and Nosler did great. What did surprise me was just how bad some of your more generic brands like Blazer Brass and American Eagle did @ 25 yards w like 5+"; 10rnd shot groups. Of course theyre the two brands Ive been shooting most for the last 2 yrs I did find one brand that shot as well as the match grade at a more normal price and that was the Browning Performance Target 147g w was shooting a bit under 2" groups. Browning also had a 115g w 3" groups at an even cheaper price. Note: I picked up the Browning for the test but have not actually fired it outside of the ransom rest yet to say anything else about it

New product release https://m.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-XL-650-Case-Feed-Stop-Switch/323283578821?hash=item4b4533efc5%3Am%3AmJGkQ0Kqk7r7r2o5z1QEKqg&var=512347842404

Sig p226 Legion I went back on sunday and left a tool next to the rest so that each time i reloaded mags it reminded me to check and tap the pin back in.

One of the most used aftermarket parts I have on my press. Looking forward to your case feeder switch to start shipping.

Again I dont know the rules but cocking the hammer on the draw might be an option

I dont compete nor know the rules but with the right hammer spring you can get that DA pull pretty light while still remaining safe

Thats what i have now but would like to get one w a micrometer seating stem.

Does Redding have a 2in1 Seating and Crimp die?

The pivoting the rest angle to shoot above the target worked well today. Thanks again. I did have another issue though and wanted to ask your advice. With the gun grips off in order to use in the ransom rest, Ive been having trouble with the hammer pivot pin walking out while I shoot. I just been tapping it back in place as I see it move but missed it today and it walked right on out of the gun (ending my session early). I wanted to ask if you had these issues and if perhaps had a way of dealing with it?

Thank you Jim. I did see that but wasnt sure the stem would fit or not. I was hoping someone would confirm if fit. And I wouldnt mind the Redding prices if I could get and confirm the same (both the stem and a seat/crimp die) worked together.

Ive been using the Mr Bullet Feeder 2in1 Seat/Crimp die now for awhile and if adjusted properly works great. I would however like to find a micrometer stem that works with it. It doesnt matter if I need to replace the die with another brand as long as it is a 2in1 seat & crimp die that works w a micrometer stem. Any recommendations?

Im looking for a slight variation of this original topic. Im looking to bell from the original die but without the powder charge or needing to empty and clean the hopper each time. When adjusting new seating depths I want to be able to run cases fully through the press from start to finish (full shell plate) without inserting a new primer and powder charge. I have a switch to shut off the primers and a quick disconnect to pull the hopper. However then nothing holds the belling piece in the die. Any ideas on a substitute piece (other than an additional hopper)?