R.Elliott

Aside from the added noise and blast, I've found that indoor light is a really bugger to be consistent with. Typically, there is not one single light source, but several overlapping ones. You end up with a noticeable lack of contrast, and just moving your feet a few steps in one direction or another results in the light is now hitting your sights in a totally different way. So you think your sight picture is clean, but with a catch-light on one side you may be holding left or right or high...whatever...and not knowing.

The 2 reasons I replaced my click switch C-more with the standard rheostat: 1. The click switch developed a dead spot in it, and it is exactly the setting I used most often. So I was forced to go either too bright or too dim. 2. Seventy bucks more for a three dollar switch. Doesn't seem worth it to me. For the rheostat switch, a piece of vacuum tube hose cut to length fits over the knob very nicely, and will keep it from moving on it's own. As well, I think Arredondo makes an after-market knob that fits on and uses an O-ring to friction-fit so it won't move either.

I have two click (plastic) C-mores and a new standard rheostat, also plastic. I tend to prefer the more infinite adjustment range of the rheostat. As to aluminum; it's a little heavier than plastic and once you scratch it, it'll always show.

EAA Stock is available in US..stock II is only for europe. Also available in Canada. We have a bunch of guys shooting them.

Great question! I feel that there are no stages where it is acceptable to throw away points if favor of speed. The hard-won lesson I try to keep top of mind is the the 95% rule. When I forget that rule and just try and hose the close and dirty stuff I pretty much always crash and burn. So always shoot for points, but get out of your own way and let your visual feed-back tell you how fast you can acquire them on any given shot.

If you decide you ever want to put it back in, just take the trigger out of the frame so you can get at everything and clean/degrease it really well before you lock-tight it.

It won't hurt anything.

Those help with strength, but not so much with power and speed. I'd really recommend olympic lifting for that. Olympic lifting would certainly work as it is all about developing speed-strength, but I think sprinting up a set of stairs...rather than simply running up... or doing quick squats or deads rather than slow heavy ones will also help. The intention is to target fast-twitch rather than slow, so the movements can be done with that in mind. Plyometrics are good too. Great, actually.

Shuttle runs, stair running, Weight training (squats and dead lifts) rope jumping, all build lower body explosive power and speed. When you exit your position and start your run, get low, put your shoulders in front of your feet and dig. Sprint like you are being chased. Proper footwear is important too. Not enough traction and you will without thinking, automatically adjust your speed to compensate.

I've always felt that unrestored targets should require a mandatory re-shoot in order to keep things fair across the board. It's the only way to be consistent. I've had it happen too many times on "memory" stages. You know; the ones where you can see multiple targets from multiple positions and you have no idea when you get to a position and see holes on a target if you shot them or not. Totally derails the stage, and "whether or not an accurate score can be determined" should not be the exclusive qualifier of whether or not the stage was fairly administered.

I agree; I can't slap the trigger at all. Just can't do it and if I try I can pretty much guarantee I will miss, so my finger never leaves the surface of the trigger...even on really close stuff. But since I'm a bit of a sloth, I have plenty of time for my fine motor skills to help me prep.

If you come from a LE background you will probably already have the mindset, so it's just a matter of applying it: namely, the body always follows the head. Anytime you have to grapple with somebody, if you know that if you can control their head you can lead them anywhere. Sooo, I always like to think of it as "lead with the eyes." Get your vision on the spot you want to hit asap, that will draw the head around and the head will in turn draw the body behind it. Imagine holding the end of a short length of rope in your finger tips. Twist the end of the rope in the Y (vertical) axis and the rest of the rope sort of cork-screws around to follow it. Just another way of visualizing what's already been said. But by the time you have your eyes and head lined up with the target your shoulders and hips will be far enough around that you won't be able to break the 180 on the draw.

Top 5: Alien Blade Runner Terminator Terminator II War of the Worlds (original) Loads of fun: The Hidden They Live The Thing (john Carpenters version) Serenity Aliens Great looking movie for it's time: Silent Running.

Well if it's true, I look forward to shooting an entire stage before the bullets hit, and all the while growing younger as the time-space continuum is ripped asunder by my slide warping in and out of phase. Maybe it will even open a time-portal so I can go back and shoot some dinosaurs.

Animation Layout artist for 3-D feature films. Latest movie: h ttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIpZxBczWUg It's scheduled for release 09-09-09.

I wish! The wife is due April 2nd,..not sure I could swing it! Nothing is impossible,..but unless she totally loves the trip,..I may run into some difficulty............. They have hospitals in South Carolina. Ok, I'm sort of kidding there.

Hey Mo, wanna go again at the end of May? SC Sectional. It's a must-not-miss match as far as I'm concerned.

Hard to tell for certain because of the low camera angle and because it doesn't play back too smoothly on my `puter, but a couple of things I think I see: 1. It looks like you are dropping your head to look at the mag well. Is the gun coming down? Ideally if you could insert the magazine with the well almost on the line between the eyes and the target, the most you will have to do is flick your eyes down (without moving the head) for a microsecond to stick it, and then back to target. It will feel more like a simple focus shift with the gun superimposed directly between your eyes and the target, and you won't have to reacquire the target like you do when you move your head. You can be pivoting to the next target while you do this. 2. It looks like you are pivoting off the shoulders rather than the knees...or maybe a little of both. Pivoting from the shoulders will force you off your index, destroying the relationship that you have constructed between the target, your eyes, and the sights. This means you will have to find a new "set" on each transition, rather than just move the eyes to the target, pivot from the knees and let the gun settle and...bang. The upper body should generally move as a solid mass. Hope this is useful. R

According to my calculations (175/150 X 7.8)you will need about 9.1 grains to make a 175 power factor in your set-up. In a .45 case that may be fine for pressure, or maybe not, but it'll probably feel like it has more recoil than necessary. 4756 is really kind of too slow for .45 loads, but works great in Open guns. I'd look at something faster.

Hey Rob, you should try one of these before you ditch the pencil idea completely. These are what I consider to be pretty much the Aston Martin of pencils: http://www.amazon.com/DRAFT-MATIC-MECH-PEN...3420&sr=1-5 I've used pencils like these exclusively for 25 years in storyboard drawing and anything else I draw including hi-detail portraits or scenery..or whatever. Always sharp, never freeze and with B or 2B hi polymer leads they don't smudge (unless you really work at it). But you can erase spelling mistakes...which is good for someone like me. Ok, nerd mode off now.

I guess it's all relative. The nurse that was pushing the gurney as they wheeled me in to have mine surgically removed (Lithotripsy didn't work) told me it was actually WORSE than child birth. I couldn't say but she'd had both experiences and that was her perception, but I was in no shape to query further. For me the pain would just keep ramping up until I would puke and/or pass out, only to have to go through it again and again until they finally gave me the sweet, blessed morphine. Turns out these things can be either life-style related or genetic predispositions. My Dad was going through the same thing as me at exactly the same time...for the second time, so genetic I guess in my case, and it seems I pass a few every year now pretty much without ordeal...so far. Anyway, drink lots of fluids and stay away from foods that can induce stones. And good luck!

Other than the fact that they don't like hollow points, I've never really had a problem with mine. The ones that I've seen that did just needed a little mag/spring tuning (lips parallel at .385-.400 and lots of lift on the front of the top coil of the mag spring)and all was good. We shoot a lot indoors here since winter seems to last forever, and the mag lips tend to spread from getting dropped on the concrete all the time. Other than that; any cases that wouldn't drop into my gage went through the Case Pro and that solved any Glock brass related bulging issues.

I have one. It works great in .40 or .38 Super. Buy with confidence!

My pleasure. Nice couple of guns you have there.

Tan fo lee o. But-a you have-a to wave-a your arms around when-a you say-a eet.