R.Elliott

JB Weld.

Thanks a lot for the thorough explanation. No problem-o. Glad to help. If you don't mind, I'd like to ask you a couple more questions: 1) Would it be possible to have a chrome finish Limited Custom WITH slide cuts? I know, from dealers in AU and NZ, that you can have a black LC with no slide cuts. Well as I say; I pretty sure I heard that they will be offering the standard finish gun with the slide cuts. I'm not 100% sure, but it would make sense since they could standardize their slides that way. I haven't seen a black one without the slide cuts, and the Tanfoglio web site doesn't show them either. Maybe it's a specific market thing...? I dunno. 2) Is chrome finish = hard chrome? No. More like a chrome-alloy stainless. You can always get it hard chromed if you wish, but I like the fact that if you ever scratch the gun up or otherwise ding the finish you can buff it out and it's back to like-new condition. 3) How durable is the polymer finish? Does it go on top of the hard chrome? I was under the assumption that hard chrome was probably the most durable finish... True hard chrome is very durable, but think stainless and you have a better idea. The polymer finish will wear more quickly, as it is not as hard. if you want the most durable finish, buy the standard finish and shoot it for a while to break it in, then get it hard chromed. 4) VERY basic question: From your answer, I would assume that the slide cuts provide for less muzzle flip, but more perceived recoil? I want to say yest but I'm not sure that would be totally accurate. I think the recoil energy imparted into the gun is the same but due to the slide being lighter, it is just compressed into a shorter duration so it "feels" more sudden...if that makes any sense. Honestly, I don't think there is a competitive advantage to the extra slide speed, as the stock slide is already pretty light and quick-cycling. More is not always better when it comes to removing metal, and if you buy one without the slide cuts you can always get them machined in later if you feel you really need or want them, even if it's just for cool points. That way you can try it and see what you like best. That is on a Standard/Limited gun mind you. On an Open gun the slide cuts are and advantage. Thanks again for your time.

Just visited the dealer. The Limited Custom is actually available in hard chrome, but the black finish is available on the pistol with the lightened slide, the same that you can see on the Tanfolglio site, described as the Limited Custom. So in essence, there's 2 models of the Limited Custom: the normal one, in hard chrome, and the Limited Custom Model 2007, in black with the lightened slide. Any suggestions on which would be a better choice for IPSC and IDPA? Limited Custom = chrome finish Limited Custom II = black polymer finish. The Limited Custom typically comes with checkered wooden grips and no slide cuts (although I think I heard that the slide cuts may be soon a stock feature), and the Limited Custom II comes with aluminum grips and slide cuts. Otherwise they are exactly the same guns. I had one of each, and with the loads I was using tended to prefer the plain Jane Limited Custom without the slide cuts. It flipped a little more but felt softer in recoil, which tended to affect my tendinitis a little less. Playing with load recipes would have probably resolved that issue, but I didn't care to change anything as I was already used to shooting the Limited Custom.

They are the same gun, yes. As to the availability; I don't know about the U.S., but they are available in Canada.

You'll be happier with the chrome.

Grauffel just fitted the sear and didn't change the hammer! he said it is FANTASTIC! Actually, Eric is using the EGW hammer and sear now. I handled his gun extensively last week, as we were discussing trigger set-ups and various tuning issues and so forth at the Ontario Provincials. However; my guns are both set up with EGW sears and stock hammers, and I would say that fantastic is an accurate description. A stock sear can be fitted pretty well if you are lucky enough to get one that is hardened deep enough to take some stoning, but this isn't usually the case. Eric has the option of cherry picking his components so he can find the gems. For the price though, EGW is definitely the way to go and they make extremely high quality parts.

Of course, in IDPA slide-lock shooting is a matter of routine, but in an IPSC gun you DON'T want it to lock open...ever. Because if it can it will, at an important match, when you really really don't want it to. It's a natural law.

Assuming you're right handed, just wipe the slide release off with your weak side thumb as you push the gun out to target after the reload. It doesn't cost you any time, and it is consistent. If you're left handed, you do it with the index finger of the weak hand. generally they will slam-load when the slide stop (or the slide stop notch in the slide) gets a little worn. It's not necessarily desirable.

can adjust that out with the pre-travel, but then have problems with the trigger releasing the engagement and allowing the hammer to fall. This I will figure out o.k. It was meant as an example of things to be avoided if the owner follows a certain format in setting up the gun. What I hope to learn is WHAT to do to set the gun up? I have watched the videos and read numerous articles and have polished the heck out of the stuff they say to polish. But the question is, what do you adjust first when setting the gun up. Do you first polish, then adjust the springs, then the pre-set, etc... How much is too much? When does one adjustment mess up the other, or does it? I do wish I had a manual for this gun, sort of like the Kuhnhausen book of Tanfoglio. But there isn't one, just you experienced folks. Paul Right, which is why I suggest you have a problem with the sear. The hammer hooks have most likely beaten a small indent into the engagement surface, and that is what you are feeling when you pull the trigger through. Adjusting the pre-travel to the extent you are describing only puts you out further on the sear, and this reduces engagement...and safety. That is also why it won't reliably reset; you're just out of room. Trying to run the gun this close to the edge could result in some unintended shots going off at very high speed, which isn't what you want. The stock sears on these guns tend to be surface hardened only, and the depth of this hardening can vary. Generally they won't stand up to the type of shooting we do for long unless you get lucky and have one that is a) fitted so that the hammer and sear mate exactly with no bias towards the leading edge of the hooks...which is rare from the factory, and/or harder than usual (also rare). The solution is to have a hardened sear (EGW) installed and tuned by someone who knows how to do it. If you buy the prepped EGW hammer and sear you might get a nice trigger just dropping them in...or at least passable and safe. But likely they will require fitting and tuning to get them right, and Henning mentions this in his ad. Every single one I have seen so far has required work to get a competition ready trigger pull. The rest of what you're asking is really more about "How to do a trigger and action job," and that would indeed fill a pretty decent chunk of a book to cover it properly. Pre-travel and over-travel aren't really affected by spring pressure though, so just set those dimensions up however you like them to be and leave it at that. If you change out the sear and/or hammer, you will have to adjust them again. Good luck R

The new sear and hammer is a good idea, but they may still need to be fitted/stoned. As described, the click he is talking about is likely not in the transfer bar. It's probably the sear engagement surface. I'd polish everything, certainly, but I'd look at the sear first.

This sounds like it isn't so much an adjustment issue, but more of a trigger job issue. Probably not something you want to mess with on your own, so I would look for a smith who knows these guns. There are a few on this forum.

Ah, in that case just knock the hook off the slide stop and leave it at that. I had the same issue with mine and that fixed it. Or buy a pin from Henning and the problem goes away forever.

what I am going to do is file off part of the bottom of the slide stop that the mag on a couple of mags appears to be contacting. Also, very little movement of the slide stop up causes the slide to catch. Perhaps if I polish/sand down the sharp ridge on the slide so it does not agressively contact the slide stop......or just sand down the slide stop at the point it does catch the slide. Mo: Take the slide off and insert a mag loaded with 4 rounds and see if the lead round is contacting the stop, and try it with different round counts in the mags. My guess is that's what's happening. If it is contacting, or even if it's close, just knock the top of the stop off with a file. You can also play with different bullet profiles, but in Production you won't be able to replace it with just a pin.

That would certainly fix it for good and permanent.

Hey Mo, while you're at it you should do the silicon thing as well. A slice of cured silicone under the leaf will take the bounce out of it and prevent the elevation screw from walking its way out in recoil. You can also use a slice of vacuum tube hose. Works great>

Lock tight. Put some in the dovetail too.

The whole sight or just the leaf? If it's the whole sight, just take the sight off and re-locktight the screws. Use the red stuff.

Yup, a drill shank will work just dandy for this.

WILL IT HELP TO BUILT A SHOE BOX or a clear plastic box TO ASSEMBLE TH GUN IN? THIS WAY YOU WONT LOOSE PARTS. One of those big Zip-Lock bags is a good way to do it.

Lay the spring in place inside the sear so that the long end is in the slot and the short end is captured against the inside edge of the sear. Good luck. The short end keeps popping under the ledge. Arghhhhhh. Thanks. I'll keep at it. Some of those springs are a little shorter than others and can be a real pain. Try and just gently press it down a little to start it and then "finesse" the slave pin in there to just catch the edge of the spring. If it helps, use a smaller diameter pin to give you a little wiggle room; you won't have to push the spring down quite so far that way. Once caught, you should be able to hold the spring in place against the sear edge by using a little leverage pressure with the slave pin. As I say though; it's a bit of a feel thing.

Align the sear in the cage and just start the pin into the hole on the left side (ejector facing away from you, seen from top view) so it holds the sear in place. Lay the spring in place inside the sear so that the long end is in the slot and the short end is captured against the inside edge of the sear. Holding everything together so the spring doesn't pop out and shoot across the room and disappear down the sump pump (don't ask), carefully push the spring down, compressing it into its slot so that you can push a slave pin in from the right side to capture the spring. I use a 1/8th pin punch as a slave. Once captured, you should be able to turn the whole unit on its side and press the pin down against your table top to run it in through the spring coil and out the other side and into the cage as the slave pin is pushed out ahead of it. You will have to guide the slave pin somewhat as you do this in order to feed the sear pin through the spring coil without hanging up. It's sort of a feel thing, but once you do it a few times it only takes a few seconds. Good luck.

Hey Mo: I had a look at one of these this past weekend (http://www.2alphainc.com/sickinger.html) and it looked like a very solid rig. One of the Ontario guys had his LC in it, and there was no wiggle or movement at all. Nice thing is that it also has a muzzle peg, which helps keep everything stable; I've just never been a fan of holsters that don't post the muzzle. Personal preference, but I feel they are safer. I'd like to get my hooks on one of these to test out long-term, but this guy tells me he loves his and it sure seemed to work well for him. And Frank stocks them as well as the Speedsec. For me though, the CR works great. I did the mod on it (takes about 15 minutes) and it has been 100% ever since. The mod is quite easy to do as well, so if anyone is unclear how to do it let me know and I'll fill you in.

Yup. http://www.2alphainc.com/speedsec.html

The CR holster works best with this mod done. Without it there is no way to lock the gun in the rig so that it won't inadvertently lift off the muzzle peg. This mod also takes most of the slop (pretty much all actually) out of the gun when it's locked in the holster, and this feels a lot more dialed in to me...and safer. Eric's description covers it, and here are some photos to support. http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0364.jpg http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0363.jpg http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0362.jpg http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0365.jpg

Stock II isn't a small frame; it's a large frame that takes small frame mags. But the sear cage is the same. Ejector tip: It would depend on how much it is worn/damaged. I have one that is quite substantially truncated and it works fine.