T-Free

+ 1 weight lifting chalk is awesome! If i'm hot and sweaty i will put on pro grip before dipping my hands in the chalk bag.

I use the #2 method and feel its the quickest way to work up a new load. If the max is 73.5 I will load up 7-8 rounds in .5 increments to max. Ex- 70,70.5,71,71.5,72,72.5,73,73.5 all loaded to the same length. I fire this at 100 yards but 2-300 is usually recommended. Somewere in that group of different powder charges I will get 3-4 bullets in a nice group, say 71g (2,790fps) to 72.5 (2,850fps). If i dont get a good group i try another powder but with that data I will choose 71.8 and start playing with seating depth.

You found the right place! Welcome

Here are some pictures of the experiment - All i did was cut off the part of the coil that doubles up (single spring picture points to this area). The springs are .017 diameter, so by clipping both sides that doubled up i just gained .034 of upward travel. The picture with the 2 springs is showing a new one and a modified one, and how little of the spring i cut on both ends (could only find 1 piece, the other piece I will find later when i step on it!) It still has about the same amount of tension and did not affect the overall length of the spring. With your now extra upward movement you will need to file the side that touches the press as stated by Kenstone and paul788, or the glued primer that you already did.

Paul you are correct, I literally just got done experimenting this lol!

Kenstone- I initially wanted to do it that way but when you push it up "seating the primer" it is flush with the bottom of the nut and will not go up any farther. So filing that end would not resolve anything because it physically can't go any farther up. If the dimple on the press is covered with a washer and you have a flat surface I don't know how it would imorove anything. Have you filed the non threaded side before or just heard about it? I have a spare one I can experiment with.

Rnlinebacker I forgot to turn off my speed mode at a steel challange match and it was a disaster!

Another vote for the teardrop from glock store.

I have plenty of clrearance on mine after the mod but If you remove to much material it will hang up on the prime slide. But if you've gone that far you will probably be denting primers.

I just used a small hobby file and went to work. The one pictured is a brand new and I haven't filed it yet. It will not come out perfect and doesn't need to be. Just kinda get a pattern going and do your best. The nut is a hexagon so start on side #1 and file 5-10 strokes, rotate to side #2, 5-10 strokes, side 3 ect.... and just keep repeating. Make sure to measure with a caliper before you start so you know how much you have removed.

You know your a super senior when you have to put on your electronic ear muffs to hear the stage briefing.

I had to crop the picture and got the upload to work. This is the side I filed down.

Mac10, to solve the issue I filed down the nut on the side with the threads so it will screw up in farther. This will allow the seater plug go up farther seating the primers deeper. I'm trying to attack a picture but not having much luck.

Welcome tacomandood to competitive shooting and yes your wallet will always be crying. This is a sport were savings accounts dissapear, your other hobbies fade away, and every weekend is spent either shooting or in front of the reloading bench. Your non shooting friends will be checking the obituaries to make sure your still alive. Soon you will be living paycheck to paycheck and eventually you will consider selling one of your kidneys so you can afford that new gun you want lol! All jokes aside, open that wallet and have some fun. You won't regret it!!

My first dawson set I used red. Bought another gun, ordered another Dawson sight set, and decided to try the green. Less than a month later my other gun got changed to green. Indoors and outdoors I prefer the green.

If you dry fire 3-4 times & live fire 2 - 3 times a week you will make A class with any gun. One piece of advice if you don't have them already is get some dry fire/live fire books and a shot timer. The books are (in my opinion) the best bang for your buck for improvement.

Midvalleyshooter, I use a 1,000 or 2,000 grit depending on depth of machine marks or how much material I need to remove. I just use whatever oil is closest, gun oil, moter oil, ect... then I finish it off with 6,000 grit and polish.

Gen 4 G34 & G35 - stock trigger and bar, 4 1/2 lb striker spring, reduced safety plunger spring, extra power trigger spring, Evo elite connector (takes patients and time to fit but worth it), wet sand all machine marks away and polished to a mirror finish on all contact points. Bye bye wall, more of a rolling surprise break, short reset, and always breaks under 3 lbs. Ive pulled the trigger on alot of other peoples overpriced aftermarket trigger setups and (in my opinion) was dissapointed in all of them.

A101132 Also in the hunt for A class! I signed up for my first Level II match at the end of August so i set a goal to make A class by the end of the year to help motivate me to shoot/dry fire more to prepare myself for it. Made low B in production after 4 months of joining USPSA and then switched to limited in Oct 2017. Will be at the 71% mark (Limited) once the dues are paid.

DAA Premium Belt, can't go wrong with Blade Tec holsters, BOSS hanger, and CR Speed Mag pouches. Thinking of trying out a couple of Speed Master pouches for limited. Seems like with standard magazines the CR mag holders worked fine for production, but in limited with extended base pads they are leaning to far into the side of the love handle area and slowing down the reload process. I have to twist my body some to get a clean grab or else my thumb sweeps my shirt and hangs up sometimes. Anyone else have this issues with the CR's?

I have a couple sets of adjustable Dawson Precision that i have been very happy with. Only time i had a little rust was after a match that was drizzling. Of course i left it in my pistol case for a few days before i took it out but it was just surface rust and came right off with some oil. I always rub some oil on the sights after i clean the guns. Dawson will return your sights and get you the right one if the first one is wrong.

I have the hero 5 with the same issue. I did a little research and some people say it is the mount/holder it sits in. Supposedly it covers part of the microphone. When it warms up outside I want to record some shots with no case attached. If that fixes the problem I'm going to drill the hole bigger around the microphone. It sounds normal shooting indoor matches so i have a feeling it has something to do with the wind reduction feature.

Indoor matches over the Winter we have 25-30 people and shoot 3 stages and classifier. Start at 10a.m. and done around 3:30-4:30 p.m. It makes for a long day to shoot 4 Stages, but the are always fun stages so it makes it worth it. As far as drivng goes 1 1/2 hours to reach the other clubs in the area with a shooting buddy goes pretty quick. Get to talk about reloading/ guns on the way out and the match performance on the way back.

Agreed, the LCR is a nice trigger. It has a long but smooth pull and handles recoil nicely. A full .357 mag has some snort. Ive had 2 or 3 instances were a .357 mag bullet has come dislodged on the 4th round and hung things up. I also have a GP100 and am very impressed with it. Replaced two springs and did some light sanding and polishing and it has a 1lb 14oz no creep single action. The double action is 7 1/2lbs and is so smooth it feels like maybe 4lbs. Winchester primers and 250-300 rounds with no light primer strikes.

I have the SJC Kydex holster for the frame weight. Was not to impressed with the holster out of the box. I had to do a lot of modification/cutting to make it like my bladetech. Also the inside was very rough and had to be sanded a ton to smooth it out. After all the mods/sanding i am very satisfied with it now. I might have gotten a made on Friday afternoon holster but make sure you have a dremel and sandpaper when it shows up.