MikeBurgess

I personally like letting shooters do that, I find most end up with a slower draw or worse grip because they have interrupted their normal draw routine. they do it for a perceived advantage but end up hindering themselves.

yes the Ghost pouches work good you can even leave the little spring thing in them,

^^^^ this its all spelled out on page 3 of the rule book

One option that often gets missied, if you have reasonably sized hands take a look at a G20 or G40 your already planning to change the barrel so get a 40 replacement. They shoot super soft compared to the small frame guns and the 10mm mags with 140 extensions hold 20 reloadable easily. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I know this will sound like heresy but even top competitors are victims of group think and are not above believing something will make them better without empirical evidence to back it up. to make the gathering of empirical evidence even harder in this respect, believing something will make you better will likely have a positive affect just because you think it will

100% agree heavy guns are not better by design you can be just as competitive with damn near any old gun that fits the division. it all shooter all the time in our sport. but the trend in the sport is to feel you "NEED" to have a heavy DA gun that is marketed for our game regardless fo the facts that it wont actually make a difference in your score.

I think the point is the Stock 2 and 3, Shadow/ Shadow 2, Walther's new steel frame ect. are specifically made to be heavy, this is not something that the rest of the gun buying world normally sees as a desirable feature on a duty size / caliber gun. look on the hip of your average LEO or under the vest of a CCW and you are unlikely to find many full rail steel guns, the main market behind these guns in particular is competition shooters.

Take a look and see if the mag is making contact with the trigger bar. I have had them swell at the transition and hang up on the trigger shoe my Caspian using tanfo mags Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

So do you want to mandate a bullet profile for competition? if not I'll pick one that runs and ask for a overlay if the RO makes the wrong call. PS I am also a ro and I can score most targes from a long way off and any target that would be in question for a round nose bullet would also be in question for a wad cutter, you get pretty good ad knowing how close a hole actually is after a while

3 misses out of 16 shots on a mini popper at 50yd is pretty darn good. I have found that I do way better with accuracy at distance the brighter it is, I know when its bright out your pupils contract giving you much better depth of focus (in the same way a pin hole camera works without a lens) this allows you to see the target more clearly if you are focusing on the front sight (or the sighs more clearly if you are target focused) I have also found that I am more accurate now with target focus than sight focus.

just make a slide stop that is a combination thumb rest/ magwell

That dot movement looks just about like what I see with my open gun. it spends lots of time in the center of the plate, no its never still but that just doesn't happen there are several second long instances where the dot is quite still. if that is a 8" at 8 yards the time spent still in the center of the plate would easily be enough to shoot As at 50 if the trigger is pressed without disturbing the gun. One thing that is quite a common cause of bad accuracy especially at range is just aiming at the target and not aiming as a defined spot on the target (normally the center of the A zone but that can vary due to no-shoots and hard cover) I pointed this out to a friend at practice last weekend and his hits on 25yard USPSA targets went from iffy to mostly As almost instantly. every shot needs to be aimed at a spot on a target and you need to intend to shoot that spot, I know it sounds silly but give it a try.

8.3 may say that because you may be making ready on a cold range where up till that point ear and eye protection was not necessary. I agree being on the range without eyes is dumb. But if you are making the argument that language in 8.3 saying to put eyes on somehow also means that you are free to not wear eyes except when shooting regardless of 5.4.1 specifically stating you need to whenever yo may be exposed to splatter I will disagree with you on that.

I went to watch a match at my local club, then went to a club an hour away and took an intro class so I could shoot their match that was 2 weeks before my local clubs next match. needless to say I've been hooked ever since that first time watching.

There IS a DQ for this instance, it is lined out in 10.6.1 "failing to comply with the reasonable directions of a Match Official" seems pretty cut and dry to me, we do not need a rule for every conceivable action a competitor could make with a corresponding action to be taken. I would bet my own $100 that if a competitor tried to arb a 10.6.1 DQ for the above described situation they would loose it quite quickly.

10.6.2 Other persons may be expelled from the range for conduct which a Range Officer deems to be unacceptable. Examples of unacceptable conduct include, but are not limited to, failing to comply with the reasonable directions of a Match Official, interference with the operation of a course of fire and/or a competitor’s attempt thereof, and any other behavior likely to bring the sport into disrepute.

10.6.1 specifically the portion that says "failing to comply with the reasonable directions of a Match Official," pretty hard to argue that following the rules is a unreasonable direction

Option B I like the 10 round rule, low cap and minor makes it a different challenge and that's really what makes it different than limited, as much as everyone like to believe otherwise race holsters and SA triggers make very very little difference but 10 or more less rounds does and minor does. I like the idea of more restrictive rules but with competitors always trying to push the envelope it makes actually fairly enforcing the rules very difficult. I alway say show me what exatily the legal hammers for a smith 59 look like? how about every factory hammer for a CZ75 from 75 till now? unless we start having professional gun inspectors at every major match somebody is going to be cheating (on purpose or not) so better to just make it so enforcement is easy and by that fair. Oh and as to thumb rests on production guns, it makes it easier to see who you don't need to worry about, thumb rests are dumb in general and extra dumb in production.

No reset is a big thing for lots of "competitors" and competition is a big thing for others. I think the competition oriented ones trend to end up in USPSA the have fun with guns group tends to go to other games. One question about this Action Steel match, does it attract a lot of lower skill level shooters as in if you were used to shooting competitive USPSA matches and you came to this match would you notice a lower level of gun handling? Personally, after years of shooting USPSA I'm at the point where I don't even like being at the range with non USPSA shooters as the lack of gun handling skills I see makes me crazy, and there are matches I flat wont go to due to the skill level of the participants.

I can only think of 2 scenarios where I would be concerned about sweeping while a shooter was at a safe area, working on it or moping the bore or whatever would not be a issue for me. 1 pointing the gun at somebody else (part of not pointing it in a safe direction) I've seen it when people start focusing on the work at hand and forget that there may be people off to the side. 2 somebody looking down the bore from the muzzle of a assembled gun.

A really cool system a local club uses is they run the end 2x2s a couple inches above the top of the wall. They use a steel base with short (6ish inches or less) tubes and another set of just tubes welded together that are about 2 in long that go in the top. It seems to work really well and is super sturdy Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I have yet to figure out why anyone cares about how their holes look in this game? if its close and you question the call there is a overlay that is used to determine the hit or not.

Its always a work in progress, my main point is that the wobble you see is what it is till you improve it, many shooters try to compensate for it by trying to get a shot off when the sights happen to slide past the middle of the target and this often leads to a bad trigger press. If you can accept the wobble and not try to catch a good shot on the way by you will normally have better success over all. That is not to say don't work to reduce the wobble, do that for sure, just in the present accept it

I did some more thinking about this last night. lets look at a Atlas Chaos as an example. its a $6k gun made with about $2.5k in parts and finishing that leaves 3.5k for labor or about 3.5 days of a decent shop rate. if a smith were to take on your project they would probably spend a day or more right of the bat researching what was actually available and trying to talk manufactures into making a LH version if not. then lets assume the machining and assembly they normally do will take twice as long because its all backwards, that's another 7 days. so now we are up to $8.5K in shop time with no parts. your LH frame is not going to be $250 probably more like $2k (you have to pay for all the programming ect there is no economy of scale) slide probably about the same $2k a metal grip is probably closer to 5k then small parts (safety, grip safety, ejector, mag release, slide stop, firing pin stop) all custom probably another 5k then you have the parts you can use of the shelf, barrel comp magwell dot pins springs ect lets say 1k so lets total that up thats $15k in parts plus 9k in labor plus finishing. so in the end were talking a $25k gun if your lucky the reason nobody is interested in talking about it is they are pretty sure nobody is actually willing to spend that much. and that is just a quick estimate I would not quote it for that, that would be a pay as we go deal and in the end it costs what is costs. if we want to talk about something that someone would give a upfront cost for it would probably be double or tripple that as taking large financial risks like that is bad business. If you want one of the "normal" open gun builders to talk to you about it, tell them up front your interested in buying a $25,000 to $50,000 custom build and are willing to put as much down as they feel they need for such a project.

Embrace the wobble, nobody has sights that sit still on a target, also remember if you can hold the sights on target 90% of the time you will hit the target 90% of the time with a good trigger press. you also only need to stay on target for a reasonably short amount of time, like if you stand there for a minute you will have more wobble than if you are just trying to hold on target for a half second. Get your sights to the target then spend more energy (mental or otherwise) holding stiller for a fraction of a second while pressing the trigger, over time you will be able to anticipate when your sights will arrive at the target and the fraction of time you need to stay there will get smaller and smaller.