Lastcat

Thanks Mike. I wish, got my Open Gun out. New barrel getting plated and slide getting zig racker dovetail up at JPL's. You always put on great Matches in Dundee, Ore. Great times there and the people are really good to chill with. Hopefully I get parts back next week then get to TCGC and Dundee next month. Cheers.

Thanks Mike, think I'll go with .005" all around.

Mike how much of a gap do you allow between the Comp and the Slide? (.004, .005, .006, etc....?)

98% passed

3 Pouches, magnet at 12 o'clock. Pull the big stick off the magnet to Make Ready, then 2 140's in the pouches. Very rarely every use the 3rd pouch, but it's there. Mags off the barrel, I grab 2, one goes on the magnet, other in the gun. Then unloading after COF, I slap the finished mag on the magnet.

Absolutely. If you try to put a size 9 1/2 foot in a size 5 shoe, something has to give. But whatever the OAL of the round you choose, regardless of HP, FP, RN, it has to fit said barrel. It has to fit into the chamber without the bullet being seated too long for your particular chamber and in some way hitting the lande. .008" oversized (in your case per trials) is just enough to keep the barrel from locking up into full battery, which means the end of the round is stuck up against the breach face, stopping full lock up. Shorten the OAL. Science by Thomas Dolby.

For 9, 40 and 38S there needs to be a gap between the case and extractor, unless it's a 45, then there is no gap. I have a 9mm Open Gun. The gap from the case to the breach is my concern. Normal? Otherwise it looks like ignition is going to slam the case into the extractor, yes?

New Brazo 5" Slide and new EGW Standard Extractor. 2011 Open Gun. Just watched this from wolf 83, many great videos. So here is mine, case is down far as possible. See a problem? Tension is great, but dam, getting the Extractor back in the slide takes some force, bigly table slam. FPS fits great, no slop. Extractor fits FPS great as well. There's a .025" gap between the Breach Face and the Case. I also have a Heavy Duty EGW Extractor I tried and it looks the same. Looks like trouble. Now what?

I hear ya. I did the same to mine, just to GunKote the Magwell. Pried, WD40 and heated that Insert. Just couldn't get that damn thing out, unless I start screwing with the Magwell and damage that. That Insert is in there, nice tight fit too. I said screw it, got the Soldering Iron and melted the Insert all the way through on one side, just enough to pry it out. Saved the Magwell, not a scratch. Got the Magwell Gunkoted and just spent the $20 for a new Insert. If I ever have to change it again, I might stick it in the oven @350 for 30 mins, salt and pepper to taste. Maybe some veggies and garlic bread to go with it.

Yes, opposite, as I stated. Sometimes when they can and to keep things moving, they can back score. Sometimes they can't. Start downrange for instance. And sometimes, they aren't even trained, just a volunteer. We need more RO's where I shoot. Sometimes, it's only 2 of us . Oh well, it's all fun, best Sport to be involved in, even as a Super Senior .

Agree. Also the 2nd RO is the Score Keeper and is qualified to issue penalties, they should always be on the opposite of the RO running the shooter, at a wider view. RO's can't catch everything and can't be everywhere. But anyone on the Squad should not consider themselves RO's at the Start/End of any Stage that is currently running. A first warning should be first given to the Squad. Then unsportsmanlike conduct penalty.

This

Much better. That first Match Vid wasn't too bad for starting out. One thing be mindful of, whenever you put your gun in the holster, never take your eye off the gun, until it is fully in place. I watched a guy get DQ'd last weekend. Lost sight of his gun, just dropped it "at" his holster, gun hit the ground. Get down. I mean, squat and wider stance. Then explode from transitions. Try shooting on the move too, forwards and backwards when needed. It's a time saver. Glad you are still at it, it's a good sport, stay at it. Peace.

Can't reach mine..lol So, just cut and shaped a piece of Aluminum and attached it. Got the length just right with my grip, no hitting with my weak hand. It is a strong spring in there for sure. I left that stock, no problems dropping a Mag.

Winchester. Very consistent. I single stage all my brass to bell mouth and primer at the same time. Really helps to catch the bad brass. Then over to the Progressive Press. I can tell when bell mouthing each piece of brass which is hard or soft. The ones that bulge to one side are usually very hard and get tossed, possibly just over worked (fired and reloaded more than a few times). I've tested both hard and soft brass and very similar in fps on the chrono. Winchester for me just seems to be right in the middle. Verse's softer brass, FC, Speer, Blazer, etc... and the harder brass RP, HRGT, S&B, Geco, etc... Using 8.6 HS6, Fed Primers, Everglades 115 jhp at 1512 fps. But I'll load them all, as long as they do not bulge during bell mouthing and fit my gauge. And they all get gauged. If I had to pick 15k pieces of brass, it would be Winchester.

In the Wa Ore forums? Where you seeing that? I've been seeing 35-45 bucks. Also trading straight across rifle for pistol primers.

Good to hear. Thanks for the update regor.

$35 - $50 per 1k for primers. Some are looking to trade for a pound of powder. If they are gouging, people are passing, best response.

Check your local State Gun Forums, the reloading ad section. In Ore and Wa, primers are being sold and traded everyday.

Welcome JTran, good to see you here. We did Paul Bunyan last Sunday (Lani K here). Lot's of good info here. Hoping you get that slide lock worked out for you. Cheers.

Looking at the Elev. Screw. It looks like the end of the set screw has a post that applies pressure to lower or raise the Diode. Bending, adding shims or a spring might not change anything. Might be best to add Blue Loctite. Get it mounted quickly and dial it back in. With the Blue, you still have a chance to make changes without much effort after it has dried, verse's using the Red or 602. Just a thought.

Oh ya, I'm sure Japan can make these for $20 each. Haven't had my windage screw change in 4 Matches (yet), but if so, I could add a drop of blue loctite if needed.

True that, life is too short. I used to be a CNC Machinist, but have nothing in the shop, not even a Lathe. Got all the Mic's, Gauges, Inside Mics, the works. Good luck on your next build.