gino_aki

Ok...how many of you have already set them up at your home range for practice or a match? We did 4, 8, 11, 13, 14, and 18 today cuz they were easy to set up. I'm expecting the distances in October to be different but they were close to the diagrams. I better not shoot in October like I did today.

I've actually seen a guy in our club shoot a double twice...has to do with the way the sun hits the range in the morning when we're shooting. Both times I was the RO and was able to see everything from my position: his gun and the target. I'm guessing the sun's angle was perfect both times so that the reflection off the bullet showed it as a streak going towards the target and the holes in the target were back-lit. He fired his first shot, a bright spot appears on the target, he fires his second and I see the streak leave his muzzle and go to what appears to be the exact same place, he hesitates because he doesn't see the second bright spot and fires a third shot then finishes the stage (one position speed shoot). I score him two alphas (you could just barely tell the hole was oval) and he says "but that second shot is a charlie" and I tell him he didn't need the third shot, and tell him what I saw. Second time was basically the same thing. He's pretty accurate anyway and now I think he really trusts what his vision is telling him about shot placement.

Slight thread drift: but there is nothing that kills bugs as fast as the non flammable brake cleaner that everybody uses to hose down their guns with during cleaning.

Hey Brian, "nana" has posted a topic with the title "Best Quality Fake Passports..." in the various "Shooting" forums and when you click on it it says you don't have permission to view even if signed in, which I hope is not a way to gather our log in info. You'll probably want to get rid of this bozo asap before other members click on the topic just to see how such a ridiculous thread slipped past the moderators. Gino

I may have to buy some more bullets.

Look for my Powerpoint and Word files under "looking for stage design software" in this forum.

I don't know if they make them anymore but I have the flexible shaft model...way easier to manipulate.

If you can find it, Birchwood Casey also has 3.5 oz cans of "Sight Black" that will really blacken your sights, usually will stay on for a match or two if you don't rub on them too much like by storing your gun in a rug or case.

Current Snap-on tool prices will make your eyes roll back in your head.

Hey Tim, Always great to see guys jumping in and starting to go beyond just shooting the matches...not that there's anything wrong with that but seeing others shoot your stages can be really gratifying or (mortifying ), anyway here's a few general comments and a few specifics on your stages. In general, if you're using Word and Powerpoint to design stages (it's what I use) especially with IPSC32 as the template, it's hard to get a feel for distances and target spacing unless you've got a working idea of perspective and re-size your PP objects accordingly. To that end, so you don't have to do it over and over again it's good to save copies of any of your re-sized objects to another slide a la "Stage Designer" below. Another shortcut is to put the number and type of targets into the file name you save each stage you design as so that the next time you design a stage with that number and type of targets you already have a score sheet template a la "Get Outa The Way!!!" Feel free to use either template and I have others posted in this forum under "looking for stage design software." That said, specifics: Bad Day at.... Skydiver has a good point, though I'd encompass the table with the shooting box so that leaning on the table would be allowed as "freestyle" would suggest. As the stage is set however, I'm not sure anyone would engage T5-T8 from the table because there's no advantage to it, you'd still have to leave the chair and engage from the other shooting area and hosing those four through the port close up will be way faster than trying them from the table. What you might want to do is put an activator popper to either side of the walls visible only from the chair (extra wall) that would activate a swinging no-shoot behind the port. This would/should give enough pause at the port to make taking the unobstructed T5-T8 from the chair a viable option. Crazy Eights.... I'm assuming the line in the middle of the stage is a wall, on a wide shooting area like you have there's possible shoot-throughs from T2 or T3 to P1 or P2, and from T5 to T8 or T9...and spacing them appropriately can really change the flavor of the stage when you're putting it on the ground. Decisions.... Same thing with shoot-throughs from T13 to T8, T9, T10 unless it's a lay-down target. Shots passing through the barrels while engaging the steel from the forward part of the shooting area may impact T2, minimum steel distance is going to be a factor. Overall they look pretty good except for the tweaks mentioned...and if tweaking is all you need to do to your designs, I'd say you're off to a good start. Good Shooting! Gino 1 Stage Designer.ppt 6 IPSC-STL-NO SHOOT Get Outa The Way-Comstock.DOC edited cuz when I read the WSB for "Get Outa The Way!!!" I saw that I missed editing out "open the door" as there is no door in the stage. This is the main pitfall of using previous stages as templates.

So here I am scrambling for all the OT I can get so as to have enough bucks to renew some things before the L-10 Nationals in October...ya know, maybe update the holster, possibly put together a back up gun...new prescription shooting glasses fer sure and what does my body announce it needs as my next new $400.00 shooting accessory? A knee brace. And not one of those neoprene and aluminum bar pieces of crap you get at Sports Authority but one of them $859 (On Sale!! Just $399... ) types them pro football players wear. Geez.

50/50 Militec and Mobil 1 10w30...tried slide glide and for some reason even the lightest grade wouldn't work on my pistols...great in the Mini 14 and Super X Model 1 though.

'Cause the OP stipulated that the shooter shot at the bottom two exposed plates but missed so 3 FTE's and 5 mikes.

The Bladetech I have wants to come with the gun on the draw. The Safariland 5197? (I forget which one it is) doesn't. I AM using the Bladetech belt attachment with my 012 on my ELS L-10 rig 'cause it felt a little more secure yet can be shifted easily if I need to move the holster a bit forward or back.

A tangent to this topic... Wrangler makes or has made both cargo pants and shorts where a small pocket that is perfectly sized for a magazine (Wrangler calls them "cell phone" pockets) is sewn behind the flap in the middle on both side cargo pockets. I bought my two pairs of these shorts at Wal-Mart and am always on the lookout for more when I go there. I call them my perfect rule friendly USPSA Shooting Shorts. Pics below of different mags inserted in pocket (sorry, no Production mags, but would be similar)...position of pocket on outseam should place them behind anybody's hip bone (well, for standing starts anyway-see next post)...and still easy to be grabbed. Maybe these will become the de rigueur lower body attire for SS and Production (Mods feel free to move this post to "Gear and Accessories" forum if need be)

I got a funny notion and had to do a search to see if my L-10 Minor gun(s)will be legal at the L-10 Nationals and I THINK they will be after looking at this thread. Main gun will be a 6 inch .38 SC on a Para frame. Back up would be a 5 inch 38 SC on a Para frame.

<tongue-in-cheek> Yeah, if only somebody can come up with a some kind of sintering process to make bullets from crushed lava rocks... It'll be a "green" bullet. No more EPA hounding ranges about lead or other heavy metals. It'll be a great frangible round for shooting against steel indoors. On the other hand, there is the issue invoking bad luck by taking lava rocks from the islands. </tongue-in-cheek> Good luck to Nationals! Whatever you do, have fun! I work at a quarry, so the only machine/process I'd need would be a shaper to "bulletize" our 3/4" minus basaltic gravel. Hmmm, maybe the test lab has something.... And thanks for the cheer for the Nats...second mainland match ever, and the last one was the '98 Open Nats. I expect there have been some changes along the way .

I MAY end up shooting L-10 Minor because, It's the only division I have bullets for, Dave at Precision says 4-6 weeks on .40's (No Production gun) If I start shooting it now I may be grooved enough to dare to tilt at the windmill at the L-10 Nats, since I'm going mostly for fun (no illusions here about being that competitive even in C class) and with the hodge-podge of parts I have may be the least expensive back-up to build before then. I'm getting a bit frustrated with my L-10 Major gun/loads right now as the more accurate loads don't make major and getting different powders out here is a bitch unless you wanna pay through the nose. Never mind the dearth of .40 bullets available for purchase NOW.

Re-reading "The Belgariad" and "The Malloreon" by David Eddings. Sometimes ya just need ta escape into the realms of sword and sorcery.

This is true. You want soft with 155's you will have to go Minor. That being said, my preferred load is a 155 Precision over 6.9~7.1 gr of Silhouette or SR7625 at 1.200 OAL, Fed primer. Then again, I AM a Heavy Equipment Mechanic. Hmmm, just checked what my powder measure was throwing, prior to reset to 5.9gr of SR7625 for working up load for 165-170gr bullets and according to the Cabela's electronic powder scale it IS throwing 5.9gr charges. I may need to visit the club's chrono again. This charge was supposed to be 6.9. and my beam scale is broken so can't compare. The 6.9 charge weight was worked up on the beam scale and checked with the electronic. Just re-calibrated the electronic. Head scratching time.

From the pics I'm not sure if you have enough depth under the sight for the gunsmith to cut it any deeper (to get the sight and slide dovetails to match) without also lowering the height of your front sight and possibly having to flattop the slide to boot. He may have to buy you a new slide. If he's willing to do that, I'd leave that one as is but use JB Weld instead of Loctite to fill in the gap and use the slide as a back-up.

I very rarely call out the time...I'm showing the timer display to the guy on the clipboard by pointing it backwards and at a slight upward angle as I'm having the shooter "Unload And Show Clear." Easy to do with the PACT Club Timers we use, not sure how I'd hold it with other timers where the readout is on the face.

I had point of impact changes when switching from XTP's to MG rounded flat-points. Accuracy was similar, just that the group moved up and right about three inches. Sort of was a pain having to re-zero when I switched back and forth according to what I could afford at the time.

Side drafts might help with recoil impulse, though I didn't notice much when I bored a couple of holes into the front chamber of my old full profile two chamber comp. Don't cut them so big that the tops of the side ports are near the sides of the top ports...they'll crack through the thin section. You might have to bore a couple poppel holes through the barrel and slide to compensate for the loss of downforce from the front chamber.

Lack of beer is about the only complaint I have with our sport Our club doesn't lack beer...when the scores are being read off after all the props and targets are put away.