superdude

B_RAD4, we need more details. What bullets are you using? And what brass and powder?

Matts 195 grain http://www.mattsbullets.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65 200 grain: dannyd beat me to it.

What OAL are you loading them to? Keep in mind that the hollow base, by itself, does not create more internal volume in the powder chamber. Let me explain. Let's say you have two bullets of the same weight and the same shape, e.g. both round nose, and one has a hollow base and the other is solid. The hollow base bullet is longer because lead has been taken out of the middle of the base and moved to the side of the bullet. If you seat them to the same OAL, the available space in the case is the same. The hollow base merely changes the shape of the powder chamber, not the volume. Whether it does in your case, since your bullets are different shapes (FP, RN) is hard to say without more information.

VV has data with N310 and heavy bullets: https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/handgun-reloading/?cartridge=89

What you really want to know is case volume, not weight. The case volume will determine pressure, not the weight. Those are two completely different things and using one to substitute for the other is not a good approach. So, measure the volume of the different brands. If brand X has less volume, it will require less powder to achieve the same pressure. The only possible exception I know to this is the NAS3 steel case, but in that situation it appears that those steel cases might react differently (expansion?) to pressure than brass cases.

Data on bullet diameter and pressure is lacking. An old bit of data published many years back by Speer suggested little change in pressure with larger diameter bullets. However, more current testing would be welcome. For what it's worth, Schuemann (of Schuemann barrels) recommends a jacketed bullet of .001 to .002 inches larger, and lead bullets .002 to .003 inches larger for the best accuracy.

Try different loads/bullet weights etc. in that gun and see which ones shoot the best.

Your barrel will tell you what it likes. It's that simple.

The most important factor is the bullet. Some bullets tend to shoot well with many different loads. Other bullets tend to shoot poorly no matter what. On the contrary: https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2019/1/18/38-different-9mm-loads

Some information here if you haven't already seem it: http://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/alliant-sport-pistol-powder/99181

What gun?

There's no simple answer to this, and diameter might not be as important as we think. What does seem to matter is which specific bullet you select. Generally, flat nose bullets (Flat nose and hollow point) bullet are more accurate than round nose bullets, so that's where I'd start. Bullets that tend to shoot well include Hornady HAP bullets, with their 125 grain .356 bullets one of the most reliably accurate. Zero 115 JHP, the conical nose version, also tends to be extremely accurate. Hornady's 147 XTP also stands out. A less expensive bullet to try would be RMR's 124 FMJ FP Match Winner. Then you need to match them with the right powder. In 9mm, Power Pistol does really well, as does A#7 and Silhouette. Sport Pistol seems to work well with some loads too. There are probably others.

here's another guide to power factor. https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2016/1/27/understanding-the-power-factor/

As I understand it, Colt introduced their Super 38 pistol in 1929 (first ads appeared in December 1928 American Rifleman). It was chambered for the 38 Automatic, which had been around since 1900 in John Browning's Model 1900 pistol. Ads from that time list the cartridge for the new pistol as 38 Automatic. The 38 Super cartridge evolved from that a few years later, around 1933, when Remington started to offer a hotter load for the new guns, and the low pressure version for the old guns. As far as I know, the bullet diameter for the 38 Auto/Super has always been .356. Reference: Sheldon, Douglas G. 1997. Colt's Super .38, The Production History From 1929 Through 1971. Quick Vend, Inc. Willernie, MN.

The simple answer is yes. 9mm barrel dimensions are all over the place, as are some 38 Super barrels. Even if the bullets are oversized, no problem. Some people recommend using oversize bullets to ensures a good gas seal and positive rifling engagement. Schuemann recommends a jacketed bullet of .001 to .002 inches larger, and lead bullets .002 to .003 inches larger for the best accuracy.

Alliant has data for Speer bullets, which should be pretty close. http://alliantpowder.com/default.aspx

Thank you! for the details on this event. It's what I need to better understand how these events occur. It's how we learn. Thanks again.

I would like to understand this better. Where was the primer when it turned sideways and fired? Was it in the tube (primer magazine according to Dillon's terminology)? In the rotary disk? Being pushed into the case? I can imagine that the primers might get a shock when they are dropped into the tube since they drop quite a distance. Is that when it happened?

You determine the OAL by first determining what length is required for that specific bullet that will fit in your chamber. Do the plunk test with that bullet to see what fits.

More detail on the plunk test: http://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/reloading-tips-the-plunk-test/99389

The first question to ask in posts like this is - do you wet tumble your cases? Many people who report this problem - squibs with unignited powder - have wet washed their brass and did not let it try sufficiently.

AA has been loading 38 Super for many years. I wouldn't hesitate to buy it. Here's a quick review of their rimmed stuff. . . https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2017/2/22/atlanta-arms-elite-38-super-ammunition/

No. That was some time back. 572 has also worked well for light loads in the 38 Super for me. You'll have to see if your gun likes it.

I tried 572 with a 125 HAP at 3.9 grains, and it shot very well. 15 shot group was 1.27" at 25 yards. It might produce wide variation in velocities at low charge weight, but the proof is on the paper. If it shoots well, that matters most.

It never hurts to ask the manufacturer. I have done so many times.