attakmint

What's everyone's thoughts on the side charger? Worthy upgrade? Lo profile or competition handle?

https://imgur.com/a/b0BTArn I have two popples. It's violent, but fast to cycle. I load 9.6 gr AA#7, Precision Delta 124 V2 JHP bullet. I chronoed 165 PF at my last Major, but I was loading 9.5 gr and I think my powder measure was throwing about .2 low on some of the batch I brought to the Major. 9.3 gr is just at 165, but it feels fine at 9.6 which is closer to 1400 FPS.

I have a gun with a two port Binary. What angles of pics would you like?

EGW and D2 Customs makes cone comps.

My prescription's not that bad, but I have a wide Asian face (7 7/8 to 8 cap size). Hunters HD Gold aviators fit my face well, have full coverage with side shields, and have transition lenses. I shoot Open so I double up and they're fine under my muffs.

Here's some pics of the plate/racker mocked up. You can see how the Taylor Freelance Canik racker gets in the way of my thumb disengaging the safety, even with my modest hand size. Plate I'm pretty sure is aluminum, so I'd want at least blue loctite to hold things together. Hard to get a video of it, but my left hand runs into my right thumb knuckle when racking and the racker is on the left side. So instead I'll set it up like a Czechmate. Those of you with ham hocks for hands will have a worse time than me. I want to shoot some Limited Major with my Honcho for now. I've said I might give LO a spin, seeing as I have everything on hand with the Honcho to shoot it, so maybe later this year.

I'm away from home right now, but I'll post it next week. The plate from eBay

It's been hard to get a plate from PT for the Honcho recently, so I found a guy on eBay who will make a RMR/SRO or RTS2/Romeo3 footprint plate. The side of the plate is drilled and tapped for a Canik racker. There's not enough room for a thumb between the racker and your safety, so I will be running it on the outside of my strong hand (palm side, not thumb side when gripping the gun). I have a TEvo thumb rest, and I'll also have a (3d printed) spacer so I have some clearance between my slide and thumb rest so I can use the same thumb rest in Open and LO.

Springs wear through compression/decompression cycles. But a better question is: why? There's not enough difference in trigger pull to matter between a dead trigger and a live one in dry fire.

I picked one up on a whim. I can't figure out a basepad besides the stock one that makes it a legal Open magazine besides the stock basepad. The closest I can get is a SSI toolless one, and that can collapse a bit if you hamfist it into a mag gauge. My mag gauge is one I designed and 3d printed, so nothing official, but nothing has remotely been close to legal with the Prodigy big stick. At this point, it's a practice mag. Still 29 rounds with either DAA/TTI 13 coil springs and a TTI thin follower, or a spare Grams follower/13 coil spring with that SSI basepad.

What guts are you using in your Atlas tubes?

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/129/3429/94414A121 PT recommends these 5-40 Torx plus screws for their own guns. You'll probably have to shorten them. Cutoff wheel or sanding drum on a dremel, plus some sandpaper on a flat surface to square it off.

He's mentioned that most of the year he's at about 8 weeks, but right now he's closer to 10 since it's the offseason and everybody wants a new gun. @jbauman915, any comments on your lead times? I'm thinking my gun will be here in a few weeks since my build went together pretty easily, apparently. But I have a Honcho that I bought as a deployment present to myself in early 2021, so I'm using that for Open. Overall, I'd rather a builder take an extra week or two fine tuning and working on details and making things look and function incredible. I'm really excited to try my Defions gun out! If you're (understandably) not wanting to jump straight into a $5-7k custom, you could try to find a good used gun on the classifieds here. EDIT: Don't want to turn this into yet another Honcho thread, but I've been happy with mine/with PT. Just wish their grips were in stock. Also I kinda suck at writing, hopefully this post is more clear now.

I'm waiting for my Open gun, ordered mid November. I obviously can't say much about the gun until it's in hand, but Jason has been fantastic to work with. He entertained a few months worth of questions from me before I pulled the trigger, and has always been responsive and upfront.

I just wanted to be the first to congratulate you on your new L/10 Optics gun.

Wild West Guns? I'm sure you've squadded with Jerimy at one point or another. I wouldn't use 1911 Guys.

Well, in 30-ish days we'll find out NROI's view.

Haven't seen a MPA in person, but Limcat grips I've handled were noticeably narrower than my PT Evo.

Are the PT and Cheely aggressive roughly equal? Or is it like a PT aggressive is a Cheely extra aggressive or vice versa?

At what point do we just resurrect Modified?

Apparently mobile ate my post. I don't own a CZ, but I stayed in a Holiday Inn before. To my understanding, on the firing pin block CZs, the roll pin's interaction with the corresponding notch in the firing pin defines the maximum rearward and forward travel of the firing pin, as well as retains the firing pin. When you live fire a FPB CZ, the firing pin hitting the primer prevents the firing pin from running into the roll pin, and less momentum/energy will be transferred to the roll pin from the firing pin returning to the rearward position. In dryfire, the firing pin will hit the roll pin at the forward end of its travel. The hammer will prevent the firing pin from hitting the roll pin as it returns rearward. A snap cap or an O ring will buffer or limit the amount of force transferred, respectively, which should limit or prevent damage to the roll pin. On Tanfoglios, maximum forward travel is defined by the firing pin spring's coils touching (or the firing pin wedging itself into the firing pin spring hole, though hopefully that doesn't happen). Maximum rearward travel and retention is defined by the firing pin hitting the firing pin stop. Non-FPB CZs are similar (as are 1911/2011s). There is no roll pin to be chewed up during dryfire. So using an O-ring or snap cap isn't strictly necessary, since there isn't the same component to damage on a Tanfoglio. It won't hurt anything, but there's no damage to prevent either.

@CClassForLifeused to have a video on how he trained on vacation. It involved using a banana to airgun. Depending on where you're going and how much privacy you have, you might get some odd looks in lodging or at the gym waving a banana around, but if nothing else you can always work on footwork. You could probably also mock up something out of cardboard and some acetate overlays to give yourself something to grip and practice shot calling and transitions.

I've used Google Sheets on my phone with the Amazon special Caldwell chrono. I just copy down the results from the screen into Google sheets instead of using the app that links to a phone I don't own via a headphone jack that nobody makes anymore. I can note what I was I'm switching up (powder charge, OAL, new primers, new bullets, etc.) and get all sorts of nice graphs as I'm eating lunch on the way back home. If you prefer Excel, you can export your data from Sheets as an .xslx and work with it on a computer instead of on the phone.

I was clumsy last night and dropped my Open gun and broke my 8 MOA optic window (the pane of glass toward the shooter, the other seems intact). 100% my fault, dropping a MRDS onto the side of its housing while mounted to an Open gun onto a hard floor means you're rolling the dice at best. I emailed you on the website but I'd figure I'd ask here too - what's the repair process like? Not sure the housing's in spec, but I'm guessing it is, so hopefully just clean out glass shards and replace the window? I have a 6 MOA I can pull off of my CO gun, or just shoot CO until it's repaired.

I will say that I'm primarily thinking of their Open gun, which it seems like they opened their books for like 10 orders. But all the usual suspects in terms of custom shops: D2, Carne, Venom, Brazos, etc. Or the good ol' "Buy something off of the Classifieds here" option.