johnbu

^^ what he said. Smooth the inside edges of the extensions. You may also want to play with the overall length of your ammo. Slightly too long may hang up and tip it too.

All guns are loose slide back. They only "lock up" slide forward.

^^ that was my thought. Thanks for the confirmation

But effective in 3 months....

Possibly. Imagine this; 5 poppers in a single row. Any one of them falls, a prop is activated. Is it "inconsistent" if popper 1 or popper 4 activates it? i don't think so, but... ?? That was what i was discribing at the time.

Had a club member tell me that stringing an ELEVATED prop activation cord behind a row of poppers, where any falling popper would drop on the cord and activate a prop, was illegal. I can't find that discussed in the rule book. He couldn't cite a ruling, but i don't want to unknowingly violate a rule. (We're a brand new club). Thanks

Fyi, I shot a stock 2 9mm with a dovetail mounted vortex (zero slide cutting) and was at 44.6oz. Milling the slide to mount the dot makes weight easily.

I agree. Heck, my chrome stock 2 has loads of "character" from holster wear and even a few brushes with Isaac Newton's pet (gravity). For a gun that gets used, durability of the finish trumps beauty. On guns.... a limited gun based on the hunter in 40sw. 6" barrel, lightened slide, modify to use a normal guide rod.

Monitor the slide stop pin bosses on the shadow2

Because ... "shiny".

Good luck with it!

What press are you using?

Yeah, but how's the frame holding up? Lol

Unlike CZ, tanfos dont frequently break them.

It's not a royal PITA to replace when detail stripping! And has slightly lighter trigger force because there is one less spring (1-2 oz max difference)

You can use the PD firing pin return spring with any hammer spring. S&B primers (and CCI) need to be inserted into the case DEEPLY. 0.008" below flush. Because they are hard to ignite, any force lost by the firing pin physically pushing the primer to the bottom of the pocket increases the chance of a fail to ignite. This is compounded if you don't swage the pockets to a uniform dimension. Because they are difficult to uniformly seat deeply, most people choose to use a primer that is easier to ignite. I use winchester. People with a Dillon 1050 can adjust the seat depth and have less worry. And expensive way to go.

Because it is HIGHLY IMPORTANT. The FP spring "robs" force to keep the FP from going too far forward and getting stuck. Too weak = stuck FP. Too strong = light strike failures But PD only makes one FP spring. why? Because they engineered it to work with light, medium and heavy hamner springs. Their very light spring robs little force, but reaches "coil solid stack" before the FP can go too far forward. Clever... very clever!

My primary is 90%+ of the SA hammer position after diddling with the bolo nose. AND after lengthening the da hammer stroke, the pull weight went DOWN. 5#8 da with PD 15.5 spring. runs everything. (Full PD spring set and good polish).

My guns have un-modified xp springs too. They all run.

Sending it to Joe.... always a good idea!

We are in the discovery phase. Our first season and we are getting our fecal matter into one bucket. lol Couple images that may help

Hi, Our club has some 5/8 plate donated and a guy that runs a cnc plasma. We're looking to make some steel no-shoot targets from it. Does anyone have a file of the targets? Thanks!

I put a bolo in the SA Match and it was a drop in. However !!! The pre-travel screw in the top portion of the trigger needs to be removed. It made an immediate dramatic change in the pull. Highly recommend doing it.

for home use with cast minor 9mm reloads, even A36 3/8 will hold up. I have been shooting mine for 3 years. Some pock marks from when I used jacketed and HP (don't use jacketed or HP!!). Coated just splats with no damage.

We are making some out of "drops" from manufacturing companies our members work at. 2x2" x5/16 and 3x3x1/4". 24" long and 24" wide (give or take, depending on what we have to work with) That seems to be plenty stout. We are also putting 2 post holding tubes at 90 degree angles to allow for easy corners.